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Drive around and you’ll be soothed by palm trees and scented orange groves one minute, and exhilarated by exotic architecture the next: Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, French, Spanish, Austrian and Brit invaders have all planted their flags. Dominated by Mount Etna – Europe’s largest active volcano – the east is Sicily’s most built-up sweep. Punchy capital Palermo crowns the north coast with a glut of gutsy galleries and ornate churches, linked by a spaghetti-tangle of mediaeval streets. Due south, serene sandy beaches and pretty fishing villages quietly partner flourish-filled Baroque towns. Whether you venture up or down, on this isle, it’s easy to enjoy un poco di tutti.

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