Little has captured our collective imagination quite like cold-water swimming which, up until a few years ago, was the preserve of a hardy few. Recent figures, however, suggest that more than four million of us are regularly taking the plunge. And where better to give it a go than in the sea itself, in all its superior salty and mineral-rich glory.
Cornwall, then, is the obvious choice with its unbeatable selection of beaches and coves – surf-bashed on the north coast, calm in the south; some rocky, some sandy. So if you’re in need of a restorative dip, or just want to admire the scenery, here’s where to stay in Cornwall (and swim, of course…)
THREE MILE BEACH
Imagine for a moment that the north Cornish coast and the Baja California peninsula fused together and you’re half way to imagining the 15 brightly coloured beach houses known collectively as Three Mile Beach.
There are the open plan, white clapboard-clad kitchen and living rooms, squishy sofas and wood-burning stoves – so far, so Cornwall – and big, rattan lampshades, surfboard-shaped picnic tables, sunken cedar hot tubs and outdoor showers that hint at more tropical climes.
This is somewhere for the young at heart, starring oversized porthole windows in some of the bedrooms, a mezzanine sleeping area in others and pops of vibrant colour throughout.
Dine at Chomp, the handy, on-site street food truck (that also serves a mean Sunday roast) or make like the locals and head to Lula Shack in nearby Hayle. On a walk east along the coastline, to see slumbering seals at Godrevy Point, pick up some homemade rocky roads from the Hungry Horsebox Co.
Take the plunge: It’s hard to ignore the namesake three-mile stretch of beach (from St Gothian Sands in the west, to Hayle Beach in the west) around 50ft in front of the houses. Use the lifeguard’s hut as your marker: looking out to sea, surf to the right of it and swim to the left.
Unlike other popular surf beaches in the area – like Polzeath – which are narrow and therefore crowded, here there’s a wide break that makes surfing into someone else virtually impossible. You can hire kit from the surf school at the entrance to Three Mile Beach – or book in for a lesson. Pro tip: at high tide the coastline becomes a collection of smaller beaches and coves so make sure you don’t get trapped.
THE PIG AT HARLYN BAY
The seventh hotel in the Pig litter – and arguably one of the best – opened a couple of years ago, propelling the little beach it sits on to instant fame. It was the hotel that the north Cornish coast was looking for, long trumped, in the hotel stakes anyway, by the offerings on the south coast.
Bedrooms are spread across the Stonehouse, the main building (a Grade II-listed 16th century mansion) and a clutch of charming Shepherd’s huts. The latter come with freestanding tubs and al fresco showers — every bit as luxurious as the others.
Beyond the huts lies a walled kitchen garden, surrounded by Cornish slate, potting shed garden (the herbs are used in the spa treatments) and a smokehouse for curing salmon.
Like all of its siblings, this Pig strives to source as much produce as possible from within a 25-mile radius and there’s a team of on-site foragers. Don’t miss the legendary Piggy Bits (middlewhite cracking with applesauce) and tempura fennel tops.
Take the plunge: Harlyn Bay is the most obvious choice, but go to the far end (away from the car park) for peace and a well-placed rock for adrenaline junkies to launch themselves into the sea from.
Walk west along the south-west coastal path and you’ll reach Booby’s Bay with its gentle surf, Constantine Bay with its deep rock pools that beg to be swum in, and finally Treyarnon Bay, with its unbeatable tidal pool, always full at low tide and approximately eight feet deep. The sides nearest the cliff face are safe for diving and jumping. If the tides allow, go at sunrise or sunset for the ultimate Cornish beach experience.
ARTIST RESIDENCE CORNWALL
A cool, colourful stay in piratical Penzance, this coastal outpost of the Artist Residence group has its trademark wall candy, and vintage and upcycled furnishings.
There’s a cosy cottage with a log-burner for families or a group of friends, and a terrace for summery drinks after you’ve dined on scallops with ‘nduja and coconut cauliflower curry in the laidback Cornish Barn restaurant.
On weekends, wake to a brunch of hotcakes, smashed avo or a meaty ‘full Cornish’ before you venture out for wanders on the sand. This is a stay as characterful as its eccentric locale.
Take the plunge: The hotel sits on Chapel Street, famed for its curious Egyptian House, which looks somewhat anachronistic if intriguing, nonetheless; and Maria Branwell House, which was once home to the mother and aunt of the Brontë sisters. There’s no official pirate museum in Penzance, but the cosy Admiral Benbow pub brims with maritime memorabilia.
Get a feel for the area’s artistic legacy at the Penlee House Gallery & Museum, which showcases work by talents from the Newlyn School; and see spectacular scenes on gentle walks to the nearby village of Mousehole or St Michael’s Mount.
Now dive all the way in to our complete collection of Cornwall hotels