On Paris’s Rive Droite (Right Bank), there exists a clever duality. Along Boulevard Haussmann, fashion enthusiasts flock to historic department stores like Galeries Lafayette and Printemps — true temples of style. Meanwhile, the Grands Boulevards pulsate with the energy of the latest shows and offer covered passages that transport you to a bygone era of Parisian charm, revealing timeless addresses tucked away from the modern bustle.
Venture beyond these lively arteries, and you’ll find a surprising tranquility. Book a weekend break in Paris’s 9th arrondissement — the northern reaches of which are affectionately known as SoPi (South Pigalle) — and you’ll find a maze of quiet streets where daily life unfolds at a more leisurely pace. Hotels in this location give you a strategic advantage, being nestled among many of the city’s most beloved attractions, and — aside from a few perpetually restless streets — the arrondissement largely remains a haven from overwhelming crowds.
WHERE TO GET COFFEE
Start at KB Coffee Roasters (originally Kooka Boora, after the Australian native bird), a beloved spot where the fruity, clean-tasting, single-origin beans are roasted in-house. Come for the caffeine hit, then linger on the sprawling terrace with a grilled cheese. Once fuelled up, stroll around the picturesque surrounding streets and be sure to grab a pastry from Boulangerie Mamiche on the way — expect to queue for its babkas, beignets and cinnamon buns.
Close by, on Rue Saint-Georges, Seamer Coffee Shop is an intimate yet aesthetic hangout with unique offerings like banana lattes and ceremonial matcha from Kyoto. Seating is limited, so consider ordering your coffee to-go. Finally, there’s Blondie, where the coffee is roasted on-site and there’s a smattering of brunch options, like pastrami sandwiches and bánh mi.
STYLE AND SHOPPING
Dominating the arrondissement are the two enormous Belle Epoque grands magasins: Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. Within Printemps, discover 7ème Ciel (Seventh Heaven), a treasure trove beloved by shoppers for its selection of high-end vintage fashion, curated by Mon Vintage (a collaborator with celebs such as Angelina Jolie and the Olsen twins).
Wander down Rue des Martyrs, the vibrant heart of SoPi. Here, you might stumble upon an enchanting brocante (flea market) and uncover unique curiosities. A local favorite is the Marché d’Anvers, a bustling farmers’ market offering fresh produce and gourmet treats.
Sézane is a beloved French brand celebrated for its timeless, effortlessly chic pieces and the charming atmosphere in its boutiques, dubbed ‘appartements’ — a popularity evidenced by the queue outside its Rue Saint-Fiacre store, but its wares are worth the wait. For a taste of history, step into A la Mère de Famille, Paris’s oldest chocolate shop, whose original location on Rue du Faubourg Montmartre has been delighting the sweet-toothed with traditional confections since 1761.
WHAT NOT TO MISS
Begin with the Opéra Garnier, a Beaux-Arts masterpiece. Book a guide for a more in-depth tour, or take a more budget-friendly, self-guided audio tour if you simply want to marvel at its opulent, Neo-Baroque interiors. For evening entertainment, dress up and catch a show at legendary venues like L’Olympia, created by the Moulin Rouge founders, or the historic Folies Bergère.
Equally captivating are the 9th’s labyrinthine, 19th-century covered passages. Start your exploration near Rue des Martyrs and weave through architectural treasures like Passage Jouffroy, Passage des Panoramas (consider lunch at Racines, where famous fashion insiders can often be spotted in dark corners), and Passage Verdeau. This enchanting stroll through hidden shops and arcades, leading towards Palais-Royal via Galerie Vivienne, is an ideal rainy-day activity.
SECRET SIGHTSEEING SPOTS
The 9th isn’t a neighbourhood known for its abundant green spaces, but there are moments of leafy tranquility to be had on Square Montholon or the elegant Square d’Orléans, a secluded spot and Chopin’s former address.
For something more poetic, visit the Musée de la Vie Romantique (The Museum of Romantic Life). This vine-covered villa, once the residence and studio of painter Ary Scheffer, friend to Chopin (and King Louis-Philippe, George Sand, Delacroix, Liszt and other talents of the time), offers an adoring glimpse into the Romantic era. Afterwards, take a break at its popular Rose Bakery and enjoy your spoils in its garden, dotted with namesake flowers.
For breathtaking city views without the crowds, head to the Hotel Rochechouart rooftop, which offers a stylish perspective of the city. Alternatively, ascend to the seventh-floor terrace of Galeries Lafayette for a vantage point providing head-turning Parisian panoramas.
WHERE TO EAT
Le Bon Georges is a dining institution, known for its exceptional, ingredient-focused French cuisine and knowledgeable service. The menu is seasonal and realised with top-notch ingredient sourcing, making it a reliable choice for a memorable meal — take note, it can be pricey.
Bouillon Chartier is an iconic Parisian favourite with a magnificent Belle Epoque dining room. It’s famous for serving classic French dishes, (think œufs mayonnaise, escargots, and steak-frites) at very reasonable prices, and the lively atmosphere — aided by communal tables — makes for a relaxed, unpretentious experience.
Finally, for a more contemporary and intimate date-night meal, explore Lolo Cave à Manger. This neo-bistro is celebrated for its natural wines and creative small plates, and low-key, local atmosphere.
WHERE TO STAY
Soho House Paris reimagines a 19th-century building, once home to French poet and playwright Jean Cocteau. Its spaces are expansive and grandly designed, from the sprawling garden courtyard to the intimate cabaret lounge, making them luxurious, comfortable and welcoming. In fact, the hotel’s often described as a ‘mini palace’ for its elegance and Parisian sophistication.
La Fantaisie hotel has garnered acclaim for its ‘fantastic, dreamlike, floral and very Seventies’ design, courtesy of interiors supremo, Martin Brudnizki. A must-try is its exceptional spa, complete with a pool, sauna, and hammam. Despite its central location, the atmosphere is serene, the rooms comfortable and the views from the rooftop bar — which looks out over a garden terrace and the city beyond — delightful.
Book your stay in the 9th arrondissement, see our full collection of hotels in Paris, or explore the city further in literary enclave St-Germain