They say you can’t have it all, but could it be that California does? At least, when it comes to topography? Leave behind the high-rises dotting Downtown LA’s skyline and you can find yourself in quaint historic towns within little over an hour. There’s the salty sea air of coastal paths, desert canyons that resemble the surface of Mars, lush green valleys, snowy mountains ripe for skiing, and even temperate rainforest to the north. But where to begin? How ambitious is too ambitious? And can you really experience in, say, two weeks what one could explore in a lifetime? Reader, you can certainly try.
The California road trip, long or short, is for the adventurous of mind, requiring a fair few admin and decision-making skills. But don’t be daunted: with a trusty steed (hire car) and the right know-how (see my tips below), planning it can be a breeze. The bountiful rewards are worth it: that dramatically shifting landscape, the warm Californian hospitality and the allure of not only seeing where they shoot the movies, but feeling like a protagonist in your own road-trip film. (Yes, having main-character energy helps.)
Think ahead
Luckily, I am a planner, and this is not my first rodeo on the west coast, but my accompanying Mrs Smith has never ventured to the Golden State. So, I decide on something of a California ‘tasting menu’. We’ll fly to LAX and begin in LA, with a comfortable layover and jet-lag soothing cocktail at Soho House Holloway. Next, we’ll head out to the edges of the Colorado and Mojave deserts, taking the two-hour drive to Palm Springs and Joshua Tree beyond; then we’ll go up and across Wine Country to the coast, where we’ll head down the historic Highway 1 — aka the Pacific Coast Highway or ‘PCH’ — to catch our flight home, since I’ve driven this road before and still fantasise about its views of rolling surf. What’s that other saying? Something about California Dreamin’…
Pick your ride, plan your route
Briefly failing to locate my driving licence two days before the road trip was not ideal for my pre-travel stress levels, but it was a good reminder that you’ll need it on your person to drive in the States — and that’s after you’ve used it to pick up your hire car. What kind of vehicle should you choose? Mrs Smith hopes for a convertible, but I opt for an SUV like the sensible dad driver I am. Besides, convertibles are a great idea for cruising along outside of the city, but don’t forget that famous LA smog.
Driving on the city’s freeways, which are sometimes up to six lanes wide, can be intimidating, but the good news is that America has a car culture set up for those who prefer to drive an automatic and not parallel park. As one friend put it when I expressed my nerves: ‘If millions of Americans can drive in America, so can you.’ A quick Google of the rules of the road helped, and a check of which parts of Route 1 are closed after the devastation of the recent LA fires and frequent landslides. Bring along a trusty GPS too, to avoid that notorious LA traffic, so your dreams of taking to the open road aren’t dashed at the first hurdle.
Let’s state the obvious: you must be willing to drive, sometimes for hours at a time — funny how things always look much closer on the map — so ready your favourite podcasts or the Desert Island Discs archive. If you’re the only designated driver, a route that keeps daily driving to under three hours max makes things manageable.
Sleep under the stars (almost)
California’s crowning gems are its nine national parks. Our first stop outside of LA is Joshua Tree National Park, named after the distinctive plant that has come to define the Mojave Desert. Recognisable for its twisted branches, this majestic species can live for up to 300 years, making them the oldest thing you’ll spot as you journey into the region. When we pull up in Pioneertown, we encounter yet more history; this tiny pitstop was constructed in 1946 as a living, breathing Hollywood movie set for Westerns. Think 1880s-style saloons and drug stores that now function as actual bars and souvenir shops.
We check into Pioneertown Motel, a Frontier-style wooden hotel dotted with cacti and Navajo design flourishes in its beamed rooms. We catch a Honky-Tonk band at the Red Dog Saloon, just five minutes’ walk away, then barbecue and more live music at the legendary venue Pappy & Harriet’s (where the likes of Paul McCartney, Queens of the Stone Age, Arctic Monkeys and more have played), a two-minute stroll from the motel. Back at the ranch, the noise from the live music does not carry: Pioneertown Motel is silent as we lie in the hammock outside our room and stargaze, before waking up to complimentary coffee accompanied by an uninterrupted view out towards the Yucca Valley.
Next, it’s back to Palm Springs on the aerial tramway, which transports you from desert surroundings to the 50 miles of trails criss-crossing the Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness Area. At this sanctuary of pine trees and panoramic views, Mrs Smith decides she might just enjoy hiking after all. Buoyed by this discovery, we drive a few hours north through the winding roads of the San Bernardino National Forest, stopping off for a picnic at Lake Arrowhead and a stroll around Lake Gregory. Then it’s onto the road once more, leaving the cedar forests behind and heading out into the wilderness.
Don’t forget to eat…
There are many versions of California dining. Tacos el pastor in LA are a must to fuel you up before you set off. Villa’s Tacos is my favourite, and it’s one of the few places where you can experience a Michelin-starred restaurant for under $10. In-N-Out Burger is also a must (eaten on the lap, if one is road tripping properly). But my favourite meal of the day in the state is undoubtedly breakfast, which here is embraced with a creativity that extends far beyond every conceivable flavour of pancake. When we reach Ojai, a laidback location beloved by Los Angelenos seeking a sleepy city break, we dine out on locally farmed vegetables and fresh pastries at The Dutchess, and breakfast burritos at the local outpost of LA favourite Highly Likely.
Then there’s California wining and fine dining, best enjoyed along Big Sur’s rugged coastline. From the Stilwell Hotel, in the picturesque and upmarket town of Carmel-by-the-Sea, there are several destination restaurants nearby, where you can experience New American cuisine while overlooking the ocean. One is Coastal Kitchen in Monterey, where Executive Chef Michael Rotondo’s menu highlights local produce like freshly caught black cod.
Another is the spectacularly located restaurant Sierra Mar, at the five-star Post Ranch Inn; well regarded for its farm-driven set menus enjoyed on the cliff edge of the Pacific. Wine tasting at Hearst Ranch Winery in the beachside hamlet of San Simeon is also an unforgettable experience, although we certainly forgot what time it was after several hours, only just making it to the nearby Piedras Blancas Rookery to spot elephant seals on the beach before sundown.
Embrace Americana
No US road trip is complete without a dash of Americana — whether it be in the form of stop-offs at kitsch diners, purchasing cowboy boots, or accommodation with a touch of quintessential Californian design. Following our stay at Pioneertown Motel, which was nothing short of an immersive Old West experience, we choose to stay in another upscale motel when we reach the sleepy beach town of Cayucos, known for its local surf spots, eclectic antique stores and iconic wooden pier, built in 1872.
Here, The Pacific Motel offers the perfect dose of Americana, with its neon signage and white bungalows that conjure classic post-war suburbia. The in-room Tivoli radios, working fireplaces and deco design touches only up the ante. As one of the last stops on our whirlwind tour, Cayucos — dubbed ‘California’s last great beach town’ by the locals — offers the feeling of living inside a Beach Boys song, with its weatherboard-clad houses and surf shops. Mrs Smith and I don’t quite get around to booking a surf lesson, but we do slide into a red-leather booth for a clam chowder at Duckie’s Chowder House.
Follow your whims
Any road trip takes some organising, but we learnt along the way that there must be room for spontaneity. The most magical moments of our two-week trip were those where we embraced the spur of the moment. Joining the locals dancing to Honky-Tonk. Deciding to pull off the highway and take the coastal road — even if it was the longer route — so we can paddle in the Pacific. The night that we inexplicably found ourselves in a Palm Springs casino, losing a little more than pocket change. Well, you can’t plan everything.
The road tripper’s checklist
Do
– Check your route before travel; there are often road closures along the PCH due to landslides or construction.
– Keep driving to three hours max per day, and allow for driving days off in your plans (preferably poolside, with a cocktail).
– Ask for advice along the way and take it — locals always know best.
Don’t
– Skip the National Parks websites before visiting, or you’ll miss out on essential admission info, times and fees.
– Forget to keep your driving licence with you at all times, and coins for parking meters.
– Pack your sunglasses away: you’ll need them for the glare, plus suncream if you’re zipping around in a chic convertible.
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