Indian summer or not, it’s time to embrace autumn and all its crunchy leaves and cosy coats — or you can escape for some early winter sun. You’ll still be able to feel the heat in South-East Asia, or you can stay firmly in the Northern Hemisphere as it heads towards festive fun. This month, the Smith team joins a fiesta in Mexico, seeks out the snow in Norway, pays homage to John Steinbeck in Somerset and finds inner peace in Kyoto.
Lilløy Lindenberg
Norway
Sweet, sweet solitude is what I’m seeking as we enter autumn proper — and what better way to say ‘shoo, everyone’, than by escaping to a teeny Norwegian island. Lilløy Lindenberg might be less than an hour’s drive (and five-minute boat ride) from Bergen, but its cosy residence looks comfortably lonesome atop a snow-drifted rise, with sea views all around and the sort of hibernation the Scandis do so well. There are thick blankets, roaring fires and an Aga where chef Antje de Vries cooks up herbivore feasts (kelp is her speciality); while the outdoor sauna, fireplace and bath tub offer full immersion without the frostbite. Be antisocial and book the entire island for up to 10 guests, or one hip hermit.
Don’t miss An art tour — Lilløy’s collection includes paintings by Bergen-based musician Axel Vindenes, Dutch ceramics by Joris-Jan Bos and glassware by native talent Sigrid Rostad. Plus, its abundance of time to think and raw natural beauty has inspired artists in residence, such as Berlin’s Dennis Rudolph, whose eerie sculptures add myth to the magic.
Kate Weir, Deputy Editor
Number One Bruton
Somerset, UK
When author John Steinbeck wasn’t documenting the harsh realities of the American depression, he was a bit of an Anglophile — swapping the Dust Bowl for Somerset village Bruton, drawn by Arthurian legends and pastoral peace. He didn’t just find a temporary home in this charming enclave; he has manifested in Number One Bruton, where tiles bearing his face are hidden in each room. Spread across an antique townhouse and mediaeval forge, colourfully dressed and bearing welcome baskets of local cheese and cider, it’s as endearing as the burr of the region’s accent. And the village’s galleries, chapel-set café and chic wine bars keep a new wave of creatives coming.
Don’t miss Bruton Museum is hosting Every Where Else I Have Been a Stranger, a festival dedicated to Steinbeck on the 17 and 18 October. And embrace seasonal spookiness with traditional ghost stories on Halloween: At the Chapel fully embraces the creative buzz, with talks by stylists, publishers and chefs cooking to celebrate the Equinox.
KW
Capella Bangkok
Thailand
Bangkok is a city as beguiling as it is bewildering. My time there was spent flitting from Buddha-like tranquillity in temples to night-market chaos; and from delicious-smoke-billowing food stalls to neon-drenched bars. Thrilling, but hard to get a hold on, especially for a first-time visitor. Capella Bangkok graciously counts you in to the city’s rhythm, with its team of ‘Culturists’ who’ll guide you through the thriving local art scene, arrange tuk-tuk food tours and Muay Thai matches, and classes where you’ll craft traditional Khon masks or healing herbal poultices. And they have plenty of distractions for families, too — all round a warm, welcoming sawadeeka to the city.
Don’t miss Vegans get a sweet (spicy/sour/umami) deal in Thailand with fragrant flavourings and superlative seasonings. The hotel has a top-tier plant-based menu, but you’ll also be catered to by the country-wide Vegetarian Festival. Its prominent vegan streak includes street eats, 7/11 snacks and sit-down meals.
Charlotte Heyman, Regional Manager, APAC Partnerships
Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto
Japan
Those whose life goals have been reset at a Banyan Tree resort (i.e. most visitors) will notice the familiar commitment to calm, sensual spaces shaped by local artisans and upheld by wellness practitioners at Higashiyama Kyoto, the group’s latest opening. Although, this being Japan and all, the group’s trademark tropical aesthetic has been traded out for moss-covered stonework, shoji screens and tatami mats.
What we weren’t expecting was the added sense of theatre — quite literally, thanks to the traditional masked performances that take place on its open-air Noh stage, built on stilts above water against a backdrop of bamboo. Elsewhere, the spa taps into a natural hot-spring source, and several rooms go one better with private pools fed by the onsen itself. Pulling all this together were designers Kengo Kuma and Yukio Hashimoto, who’ve leant into the Noh concept of yūgen, or sense of mysterious beauty, for a hillside hotel worthy of appreciative applause.
Don’t miss There’s no shortage of unmissable activities in Kyoto, and visitors will only be enriched by the presence of a guide. To that end, let Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto arrange yoga sessions in the hotel’s mist-coated gardens, or introduce you to the mystical world of Noh theatre, the artistry of Maiko performances, or the oh-so-Japanese sound of the stringed koto and shakuhachi.
Martin Dickie, Production and UX Editor
Escondido Oaxaca
Mexico
It’s only been a couple of weeks, but if you’re already done with autumn, pack your bags and head to the equator. Just north of it, specifically, to the Mexican state of Oaxaca where the temperatures will be comfortably in the mid-twenties. The 12-room Escondido Oaxaca is in the state capital’s colonial centre, with a rooftop pool providing respite from the heat. In keeping with the region’s famous food creds, the hotel has a small but ambitious restaurant, with a monthly changing tasting menu and produce sourced from Central de Abastos, the biggest market in the city.
Don’t miss You’ll probably be tempted to extend your trip into early November, which is completely advisable — Oaxaca’s Día de los Muertos celebrations go hard, even by wider Mexican standards. October visitors are in luck: the festivities begin at the end of the month, including the Tierra de los Muertos music and arts festival which kicks off on the 24th.
Caroline Lewis, Senior Associate Editor
La Fondation
Paris, France
As summer hangs up its sunhat, it’s time to don those layers and pivot to city break season. Paris is a failsafe in autumn, when businesses have reopened after their August break and you can actually get a table at that brasserie you’ve had your eye on. Embrace the spirit of seasonal change by skipping the touristy areas in favour of village-like Batignolles in the 17th arrondissement, home to Brutalist hideout La Fondation. In striking contrast to the city’s limestone architecture, La Fondation has been turning heads with its glass-grid façade and soigné Roman and Williams interiors; not least the window-walled restaurant on the eighth floor, where refined seasonal dishes are served with a side of rooftop views.
Don’t miss There’s a slew of cultural events running throughout October. During Nuit Blanche (7 October), many of the city’s art galleries, museums and cultural institutions open from dusk to dawn, with installations and performances galore. Held in the Grand Palais, Art Basel (18–20 October) brings some of the industry’s biggest artists, gallerists and collectors to the French capital. In Montmartre, the Fête des Vendanges (8–12 October) celebrates viticulture and winemaking traditions, with many events — and yes, tastings — held among Paris’s last remaining vineyards.
Hamish Roy, Senior Associate Editor
Nadi Nature Resort
Bali, Indonesia
Call me biased, but I’d say there’s nowhere that can banish the autumn blues like Bali. The Island of the Gods has that ability to be ebullient and boisterous when you want it and deeply rejuvenating when you don’t. Nadi Nature Resort sits firmly in the latter camp, surrounded by rice paddies and waterfalls in the hushed foothills of three verdant mountains. It’s as Earth-kind as they come, with just four luxury tents made of bamboo, reclaimed wood and handmade textiles. The Nadi Café gets the bulk of its produce from the hotel’s organic permaculture garden and native forest, and what can’t be grown on-site comes from sustainable, local farms. I’d recommend going all in on the slow-living lifestyle: join foraging outings, brush up on jungle survival skills with local guides, and try a purification ceremony led by a Balinese priest.
Don’t miss October marks the start of Bali’s wet season, but don’t let that dampen your spirits. The heavier rains tend to arrive towards the end of the year, so October often marks a sweet spot between the seasons, when there are fewer tourists, lower prices, and the landscape is lush and teeming with wildlife. If you’re game for a daytrip, the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival will run from 29 October to 2 November, bringing top literary talent and speakers to one of Bali’s most culturally engaged towns.
HR
Keep some space in your calendar for our other new arrivals