One of my oldest and best friends is Maltese, so while many might struggle to locate this miniature island nation on a map, I have been fully immersed in its cultures, traditions and cuisines for almost three decades now. My friend’s parents, affectionately known as ‘Mama B’ and ‘Dr. B’ (on account of her being the consummate maternal homemaker and him being a psychiatrist) are some of the warmest people I know; always welcoming us into their home for huge feasts of timpana and baked rice (two Maltese staples, the former of which is aa carb-y delight consisting of penne bolognese encased in pastry) and film nights courtesy of their giant screen and extensive celluloid library. I first became familiar with the family in my hometown of Bournemouth, but about 10 years ago they returned to Malta , and so this summer it was a delight to visit their motherland and explore it with them.
Hollywood is a huge fan of the island, too. As a certain Marcus Aurelius (albeit played by Richard Harris) said, ‘There was once a dream that was Rome’ — and it happened to be filmed in Malta, when a quarter of a century ago, Fort Ricasoli stood in for the City of the Caesars in Ridley Scott’s original Gladiator film. This is an especially noteworthy fact to me, as someone who rewatches the film every New Year’s Day, (one of my favorite festive traditions). More epic-movie productions followed suit, including the clearly-not-as-good Troy in 2004.
Another favorite film-set is the Blue Lagoon over on Comino, an isle within the Maltese archipelago, which also includes the sleepier Gozo. Keen-eyed cinephiles might also recognize it from Troy and Swept Away . And Mdina has also seen its fair share of director chairs: in Game of Thrones speak, Mdina Gate is an entrance to King’s Landing, Mesquita Square is home to Littlefinger’s brothel and — just outside the city walls in Rabat — the surroundings of St Dominic’s Priory are a garden at the Red Keep.
The 1980 film Popeye , starring Robin Williams and Shelley Duvall, famously left an entire film set intact and visitors today can call it in for novelty value. The ramshackle village was abandoned by the crew, but turned into a sort of attraction or ready-made theme park, and is now one of those niche, borderline-dark-tourism things.
I have my own fond film memories of the island and its cinematic scenery. My first trip a few years ago was during February, which was the perfect introduction — crowd-free, comparatively cool, but still gloriously sunny. This time, I was returning at the opposite end of the spectrum, in August. It was sweltering: temperatures hit the mid-30s every day and the beach was the only sensible place to be. Which was just as well, because Malta has lots of beautiful bays to swim off, including Ġnejna and the rocks at the edge of the fishing village of Wied iż-Żurrieq. From the latter, we took a boat tour to the Blue Grotto to see the caves and the namesake cerulean waters up close.
We also visited Mdina, a mediaeval walled city in the north of the island, with the sort of golden sandstone architecture holiday snaps are made for. Valletta, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is equally photogenic — this is surely one of the most attractive and well-preserved capital cities in Europe, if not the world.
Iniala Harbor House was the perfect base for exploring Valletta’s fortifications, staircase-lined streets and golden architecture. The hotel’s position on St Barbara Bastion is directly opposite the Grand Harbour, with an incredible view of the Three Cities (Senglea, Vittoriosa and Cospicua, in case you’ve always wondered), especially from up on the terrace at its Ion Harbor restaurant. The British chef Simon Rogan, of L’Enclume in the Lake District fame, was so captivated by Malta that he decided to set up a restaurant here, and guests of Iniala Harbor House will certainly be glad that he did. The tasting menus might be long (13 courses, if you’re up to it), but they’re perfectly executed and delicious, with no overwrought fussing in sight.
The Maltese love fireworks — even, somewhat surprisingly, barely visible daytime ones. And they’re also prone to firing off the odd cannon, especially to commemorate a feast day, of which there are many during the summer. From the Ion Harbor terrace, and indeed some of the rooms, including the spectacular, supersize Gallarija Grand Harbor View Residence I stayed in, you’ll have front-row seats to the dazzling show on the water.
The summer crowds and Ridley Scott’s crews have packed up from Malta, although the island stays relatively warm for much of the winter and so really it can be visited year-round. Back in London, I await the next Gladiator installation with a fatal inevitability that it won’t — can’t — live up to the original (no Maximus, no dice), but with barely contained excitement nonetheless. In my opinion, Paul Mescal has too much of an ‘iPhone face’ to be transplanted to Ancient Rome (don’t @ me). But my popcorn is ready for 15 November — let’s hope Dr. B hosts a screening.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION
If you’re as excited as us by Gladiator II , here’s how you can relive the original…
TUSCANY
Confusingly, the Spaniard’s house is actually in Tuscany, but if you want to go in search of those haunting corn fields, the Val d’Orcia near Siena is where to head. For specific GPS co-ordinates (hey, this is Russell Crowe in his prime we’re talking about), you’ll need to locate Podere di Poggio Manzuoli, in the municipality of San Quirico d’Orcia. Offering refuge within a 40-minute drive in either direction are Monteverdi and Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco .
MOROCCO
South of the High Atlas mountains, the city of Ouarzazate was the primary filming location for both Gladiator and Gladiator II (as well as for Game of Thrones and, back in the day, The Mummy ). Film buffs also hoping to explore the Sahara Desert should check in to Dar Ahlam , which is the vision of a party planner from Paris and a luxurious mirage-come-to-life in the empty expanse.
Red-folder ready? See more of our Hollywood-linked hideaways