Isla Holbox is the kind of place that locals are still surprised visitors know about. A few hours up the coast from Cancún, Holbox (‘black hole’ in Mayan) takes its name from the deep, dark waters of the Yalahau lagoon that separates it from the mainland. Until recently, travellers would be put off by dire warnings of power outages, unreliable ATMs and (horror of horrors) dodgy WiFi, meaning the car-free island long stayed the off-the-beaten-path preserve of the backpacker community. The reward for braving the odds? Long slivers of white sands and pristine mangrove forests facing the tranquil aqua waters of the Caribbean.
Today, Holbox is working hard to put itself on the map, buoyed by Cancún’s rambunctious reputation and the rapid pace of change in the ever-popular bohemian enclave of Tulum, further south. It does take a little effort to get there: most visitors opt for the three-hour taxi or bus ride from the airport, before a quick 30-minute ferry across the lagoon. This relative remoteness, thankfully, has managed to protect the island’s mellow way of life; for how long remains to be seen.
Though gap year-friendly hammocks still sway tantalisingly from hostel balconies, the island’s undeniable natural charms are now attracting a new generation of discerning visitors. Here’s how to follow in their footsteps.
Get your bearings
Isla Holbox may stretch out over 40 or so torpid kilometres, but much of it is still given over to untouched mangroves and sandbanks where pink flamingos flock for their aquatic dinner. You’ll find most of the action clustered in a grid at the western end of the island, near the ferry terminal. The area around the main square, Parque Central, comes alive at night, when beachgoers shake the sand off their golden limbs to shop, sample tacos and sip on rooftop margaritas. To the east, Playa Holbox is bordered by attractive beach clubs and elegant restaurants; to the west, a more rugged stretch of coast is blessed with bioluminescent waters and soul-stirring sunsets. You needn’t pick one over the other: rental or taxi golf-carts make navigating the sandy (and sometimes boggy, after a downpour) roads a breeze.
Keep cool
With days revolving around the water, it’s worth hunting out a good beach club where, for a reasonable spend on ice-cold drinks and tempting snacks, you can have your pick of ocean-side sunloungers, palapas or hammocks for the day — all in blissful dappled shade. On the eastern beach, La Playa de Ñaña runs one of the sleekest operations, with ear piece-equipped, smooth-talking staff who will keep you well supplied in Tiki-inspired cocktails and impeccably presented plates (try the moreish coconut shrimp). A gentle wander down the sands, Ser Casasandra’s Mojito beach club strikes a rarefied Mediterranean note, with generously sized day-beds and a list of signature drinks to satisfy the most exacting of Cubans. Don’t ignore the itinerant vendors plying their wares: alongside the usual coconuts and mangos cut to order, you’ll find screenprinted t-shirts, artisan jewellery and a very welcome cold-brew-coffee cart.
Tour the taquerias
Now that you’ve left behind Cancún’s international buffets, turn your mind to tacos — surely one of Mexico’s finest culinary inventions. You’ll find plenty of cheap and cheerful taquerias in town — bypass popular Maiztro and head instead to tucked-away Tacos Bebote at 329 Avenida Pedro Joaquín Coldwell, where everything is grilled with care — but true taco fiends shouldn’t hesitate to fork out for elevated takes on all things tortilla. Punta Caliza’s pork-belly number is marinated for 48 hours, charred to perfection and paired with grilled pineapple; Mojito’s vegan version — creamy avocado breaded and deep fried to a crisp — can win over the most hardened of carnivores.
Explore the island’s wild side
Holbox’s biggest draw remains its abundance of wildlife — often just on your doorstep. Breakfast at Nomade Holbox is taken under the watchful eye of the resident racoons and iguanas, who’ve mastered the art of looking cute in the hope of getting their mittens on your huevos rancheros. It’s just the spot, too, to watch cormorants and pelicans swoop overhead, diving suddenly for an ill-fated fish. Whale-shark season (roughly May to September) is a chance to swim with these gentle spotted giants, who flock nearby to feed in the plankton-rich waters. Ethical operators follow strict guidelines established by the WWF (no touching, no flash photography and only two swimmers at a time) but this can mean long waiting queues for the otherworldly experience.
To linger longer in the water, book a private charter with VIP Holbox; you’re likely to spot dolphins, rays and sea turtles on the way and, if you ask for Diego, feast on the freshest ceviche this side of the Yucatán. A kayaking trip through the mangroves can also come up trumps: you might see spoonbills, herons, flamingos and — if you’re lucky — the shy, raccoon-like coati. Isla Holbox is one of the rare places in the world where bioluminescent plankton flourishes; on moonless nights, a dip in Punta Cocos turns into an effervescent light show. It’s a popular activity, so for a more secluded experience, book a kayaking tour to the sandbank at Punta Mosquito — the extra paddling is worth the effort.
Source statement souvenirs
Once dominated by tacky stalls and souvenir tequila, Holbox’s shopping scene is evolving, with a growing number of quietly luxurious boutiques. At Le Bazaar, silk and linen resort wear sits alongside statement cuffs and delicate gold harnesses. The focus at Ser Casasandra’s tiny open-air shop is on Mexican designers. The mother and daughter duo behind the hotel scour the country for their favourite finds: colourful clutches, elegant kaftans, and Debbie de la Cueva’s sea-inspired jewellery. Across town, the newly opened Maali Boutique takes a more youthful approach; stop by for bold prints, colourful swimwear and playful home accessories. Lobster bottle-opener, anyone? On the main square, Gianeti Apothecary’s range of organic made-in-Mexico fragrances is seriously desirable. If you can’t squeeze one of their heavy, musky candles in your luggage, a roll-on essential-oil blend makes a carry-on-friendly alternative. Round the corner, Barro Azul champions local artists and makers: take your pick from a selection of ceramics and lino-cuts that are both rooted in place and convincingly contemporary.
Take time out
If Holbox’s deliciously slow pace isn’t quite languid enough for you, book in for a restorative spa session. Most beach clubs have a no-frills massage palapa within sauntering distance — just the thing to unwind pent-up tension in between two mezcalitas. For something more potent, tap into the region’s healing traditions, inspired by the sea and the island’s deep Mayan roots. Stays at Nomade give access to a weekly programme of wellness activities, from sunrise yoga classes on the sands to lucid-dreaming sessions in the gratitude tent and deeply moving cacao ceremonies. For more pressing aesthetic concerns, book a mani-pedi at serene Marea, where you can only pick up locally made soaps and unguents, or surrender your salt-blasted tresses to M Spa’s restorative hair treatments.
After dusk
Once you’ve caught the last tangerine throes of the sun, set your sights on a gourmet feast. Downtown’s lively bars and tempting food carts certainly have their appeal, but for something more intimate, stray further afield. At award-winning Piedra Santa, a spellbinding jungle greenery sets the scene. The focus is on seafood, naturally; order the charcoal-grilled octopus with poblano chilli. Set under a soaring rattan canopy, Nomade’s candlelit restaurant La Popular is equally enchanting. The wood-fired lobster pizza here is expertly executed and absolutely worth the hype. End the evening at Luuma, an atmospheric tapas bar that shakes a mean cocktail. Sip on the Yalahau, a sophisticated spin on the piña colada. It’s tropical, delectable and very much grown-up — just like Holbox itself.
Go from backpack to flashpack with our collection of Yucatán Peninsula hotels
Madévi Dailly is a French-Cambodian freelance writer and editor, with a focus on food and travel. She’s written for The Guardian, The Independent, British Airways’ High Life magazine, Red, Monocle and Lonely Planet, among others. A former food editor for Mr & Mrs Smith and destination editor for Eurostar, she lives in St Leonards-on-sea and visits her hometown of Paris whenever her pastry cravings get too strong.