As the mercury drops and the slopes get their winter coats on, we look at the US resorts, east and west, where you’ll want to kit up this season. The mountains may be Green, Elk, Teton or Wasatch, but whichever you plump for, you’ll want some cosy lodgings to return to. From budget-friendly boltholes in Vermont to fine-tuned frills in Aspen, here’s a flurry of luxury-ski-hotel suggestions for this year’s winter break.
AMANGANI, JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING
For bucket-list-worthy adventure
Two words that can give even seasoned skiers and boarders a frisson: Jackson Hole. This Wyoming ski town has a top-notch reputation — its snowfall, terrain and breathtaking Tetons scenery making it a bucket-list destination. So if you’re going to ‘do’ Jackson Hole, do it well. Smith has a choice of stays here, including suitely-appointed Aman Resort, Amangani. This architectural work of art seduces with polished redwood timbers, rugged Oklahoma sandstone, inviting nooks and tactile soft furnishings. A boon for weary mountaingoers, polished regional plates are served up with Snake Valley views at dining spot, the Grill. Massage therapies, and dips in the heated outdoor pool or whirlpool bath add to the pampering, and a ski lounge at the base of the mountain teamed with hotel shuttles smooth the way for memorable days spent outdoors in this spectacular national park.
BLUEBIRD TALTA LODGE, STOWE, VERMONT
For all-day shredding
This Stowe mountain stay, part of the Lark Hotels collection, is serious about shredding and there are several clues at this boutique hotel, only minutes by road from the slopes, signposting its commitment. The geography, for starters — between town and mountain resort, Bluebird Tälta Lodge gives you a head start on town dwellers if it’s fresh tracks you’re after. Light-filled, contemporary rooms come with modular storage for all your mountain gear (there are kit lockers, too). And pared-back facilities — no restaurant, a part-time bar, and a room-only set-up — keep the emphasis on outdoor adventures (and great value for money), while thoughtfully curated Scandi-style interiors, a yoga room, indoor pool, sauna and hot tub mean there are enough cosseting frills to earn it the nod from Mr & Mrs Smith.
BLUEBIRD CADY HILL LODGE, STOWE, VERMONT
For chalet cool with a youthful energy
With all due respect to Diana Ross, we think we may have found a mountain high enough in Vermont, plus a top-tier basecamp in Bluebird Cady Hill Lodge, part of the adventuresome Lark hotel group. It’s a mere 15-minute drive from the Gondola SkyRide at Stowe, which will lift you up to the ski resort on altitude-acing Mount Mansfield, where there are runs for all abilities, plus miles of spectacular backcountry trails for powder hounds. The lodge itself is quite literally geared up for enthusiasts, with on-site storage and cleaning kit; and staff walk the walk (or indeed, ski the ski), and can point out local rental places and where to find the liveliest après. Although in its hip cabin-style confines you can socialise over shuffleboard and s’mores by the bar’s fireplace; or in the hot tub if you wish. Mountain highs, Bluebird Cady Hill’s got ‘em.
MADELINE HOTEL & RESIDENCES, TELLURIDE, COLORADO
For slopeside bonhomie
In tucked-away Telluride, despite the robust system of lifts and slopes, a sense of wilderness endures — any stay in the San Juan mountains feels fantastically far from everywhere. Telluride itself is a tale of town and ski village, the latter set at altitude a gondola ride from the original mining settlement. It’s here you’ll find Madeline Hotel & Residences — an overhauled stay in the Auberge Resorts Collection that itself is akin to a village, with a heated rooftop pool and spa, fitness center, ice rink in winter, and a choice of drinking and dining spots (as well as a packed calendar of events). There are sumptuous rooms, suites and apartment-style residences with one to four bedrooms. And the concierge team’s cache of treats — champagne picnics, snowmobiling, heli-skiing – seals its stellar reputation.
HOTEL JEROME, ASPEN, COLORADO
For a glamorous après-ski scene
Even non-skiers have heard of this storied Colorado resort, which has an enduring, starry reputation for its upscale après-ski scene, paired with snow-sure conditions and excellent terrain. Aspen comprises four ski areas, Aspen Mountain, Buttermilk, Aspen Highlands and Snowmass, and if you’re an experienced skier or boarder, hiring a guide to head into the backcountry is a thrilling investment. Time away from the slopes is easily well spent, too, exploring its designer boutiques, mooching around galleries, and antique stores, or its Art Museum. Just as enduring as Aspen is Hotel Jerome, a red-brick-mansion stay with covetable co-ordinates on Main Street. With luxury hotel group, Auberge, now at the helm, it’s been freshly spruced with vintage Western interiors, a first-class spa and pool, and an elegant modern bistro. And we’re loving the sound of its cocktail bar, which had us at its name, Bad Harriet.
MOLLIE ASPEN, COLORADO
For prime slope views and soothing style
You’d think the summit of Mollie Aspen’s charms would be its rare 180-degree view of Aspen Mountain, which you can enjoy from the steamy rooftop spa pool or perhaps while lying on a lounger enjoying a lemon-y, bourbon-laced Summit Sour. But it doesn’t peak there, with a Naturopathica spa where you can get a free five-minute shoulder or hand massage at the Friday après, a community feel to the bar where local musicians take the stage, and soothing Japanese-Nordic styling in rooms. Although, with free shuttle rides to the gondola, you’ve no excuse not to strap on those skis. Especially as Buttermilk Mountain’s bunny slopes, Snowmass’s daring inclines and the steep scenic Highland Bowl (for serious skiers and boarders) are also close by. At Mollie, the only way is up (well, sometimes down, but in a fun way, we promise).
VAQUERA HOUSE, CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO
For wild West charms
A resort of gullies and glades, powder-cushioned tree skiing and wide-open sunlit slopes — deep in Colorado’s Elk Mountains, Crested Butte has runs for all abilities, and extends its appeal with a broad choice of other snow-based activities, such as cross-country skiing, snow-mobiling or dog-sledding through the nearby Gunnison National Forest. It’s high and cold, but brings warmth to winter adventures with beautifully preserved architecture from its mining-town days, and a lively après scene centred around Elk Avenue. Among Smith’s trio of tempting stays in the resort is boutique des-res, Vaquera House. This 10-room timbered lodge — at the heart of the resort and only a shuttle bus ride from the mountain base — offers polished lodgings and living spaces, plus a make-yourself-at-home welcome, with the kind of plaid-and-antlers interiors that are synonymous with the cosiests of ski boltholes.
ANVIL HOTEL, JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING
For all-out Americana
While you’d never usually want to be involved in an accident on a ski slope, we’d like to politely draw your attention to the fact that Harrison Ford (yes, Indiana Jones himself) has been known to join the search-and-rescue helicopter patrols in the Wyoming resort of Jackson Hole. The area is also popular with musicians, who arrive to to hide themselves away in recording studios, clearly inspired by the majesty of the Grand Teton and nearby (relatively speaking) Yellowstone national parks. The ‘hole’ in question is named after a flat dip in the Teton mountain range that’s technically a 50-mile valley.
There are plenty of dude ranches to stay at in the surroundings for a taste of the wild, wild West, or you can check in to Anvil Hotel in Jackson, the valley’s main town. The revived motor lodge is opposite a shuttle stop to take you straight to the slopes, with a coffee shop in the lobby to caffeinate you pre-piste and an Italian restaurant that’s straight outta New York City for some well-earnt carb-loading when you come home.
WASHINGTON SCHOOL HOUSE, PARK CITY, UTAH
For more than simply skiing
Another of America’s glitziest ski resorts is Park City in Utah, approved by celebrities such as Will Smith, Anne Hathaway and Demi Moore. The pistes are east of Salt Lake City and close to another big ski area, Deer Valley. ‘Silver rush’ isn’t quite as catchy, but you can see buildings that were constructed during the silver mining boom of the 19th century along Main Street in town — 400 million dollars worth of silver was extracted from the neighbouring hillsides.
There’ll be no draughty classrooms or stern schoolmasters at Washington School House, built in 1889 and named after the most famous Founding Father. Only enlightenment in the form of Parisian-style decor (French antiques, crystal chandeliers, dark wooden floors), a heated outdoor pool for all seasons and a fire pit around which to gather for scholarly musings (or just singsongs). Guests can partake in regular skiing, back-country skiing and heli-skiing, ice-skating, fly-fishing, luging, bobsledding, fishing… or just curl up by the fireplace if that sounds better.
SNOWPINE LODGE, ALTA, UTAH
For fresh, fresh powder
‘Come for the skiing, stay for the skiing’ is Ski Utah’s advice to those considering a trip to Alta. The other side of the Wasatch mountains from Park City, Alta is not so much a ski resort as it is a ski area, where the focus is proudly on the slopes. This corner of Little Cottonwood Canyon gets on average more than 500 inches of snow each year, with a bounty of backcountry delights, as well as terrain for beginner and intermediates. Sadly, Alta is no place for snowboarders, but otherwise this quieter Utah stay will kindle a new romance — especially if you check in to Smith-approved Snowpine Lodge. This accomplished stone lodge, in breathtaking mountain scenery, comes with muted, modern interiors, cosy lounge spaces, an outdoor heated pool and hot tubs, plus a consummate spa.
PENDRY PARK CITY, UTAH
For A-list-approved après
Pendry Park City caters to its well-heeled clientele with a Japanese restaurant, a rooftop pool with a view and a spa to soothe sore limbs after a day spent in ski boots. It’s a modern take on a trad chalet, with almost all plaid banished. Guests can ski in and out, since the lifts to the slopes are within walking distance. Tempting you away from the pistes are trips to neighbouring national parks and road trips through Utah’s at times lunar landscape.
There’s an après-ski bar with live music, fireside seats to warm up at and huge windows so you can watch the stragglers come in. It’s also home to a Mexican restaurant, importing sunnier climes to the snow-covered slopes.
Looking further afield? Check out more of the world’s most seductive ski hotels…