Porto might be Portugal’s second city (after Lisbon), but it makes for a first-rate weekend break. Its high-frequency topography is lined with lavishly Azulejo-tiled buildings, gets you woozy on white-to-tawny ports, rings with mournful Fado songs and spills over into the Douro Valley wine region.
The best hotels in Porto reflect its characterful nature; our pick of spa hotels, family apartments and beachside hideaways offer an intro to the city as smooth as its signature drink.
For a city-centre stay
The Editory Boulevard Aliados
This Porto outpost of the Editory hotels had already piqued our interest with its circus-themed bar, restaurant intriguingly named ‘Illicit’ and rooms in primary brights; but its super-central location, on bustling Avenida dos Aliados, is yet another attention-grabber. But when splashes of ‘neon lobster’ paint are part of the signature look and wonderfully named design studio Ding Dong is at the helm, it was unlikely to fly under the radar.
Stay here and Porto’s greatest hits (and lesser-known sights) spread out around you; but with the hotel’s rooftop pool, impressive art collection and cellarful of rare wines, you’ll get a feel for the city’s cultural and social scenes before you set foot outside.
Best room for city-breakers Porto has very scenic streets, but none have quite so many crawling-with-statuary edifices, Beaux-Arts frills or stately monuments (the Câmara Municipal, Banco do Minho, A Nacional insurance HQ) as the Avenida dos Aliados; so a room that overlooks it is a must. A Double will suit out-and-about-ers, while the Suite gives you more space, cosy nooks and a cherry-red bath tub.
Design details Not every hotel would be so bold as to pair a chevron floor with leopard-print wallpaper, but the Editory doesn’t shy from colour, pattern or the odd cheeky screenprint. Keep your eyes peeled for works by Portuense artists: curious forms by sculptor João Galrão, Sofia Torres’s dog portraits and Mónica Menez’s surreal photography.
Something to eat Ilícito Restaurant deals in substances that might be addictive but are perfectly legal. Take dishes such as brill with lime purée, duck with truffle millefeuille in an orange jus, and goat-cheese mousse with quince jam and brown-butter crumble.
See the sights Believe it or not, the avenida’s McDonalds is known as the most beautiful in the world for its art deco building, formerly the Cafe Imperial. There’s a meeting point for free walking tours just across the road from the hotel and you’ll find an excellent take on the national sandwich, the Francesinha (a meat-filled feast topped with melted cheese and a beer-tomato sauce) at A Regaleira a five-minute walk away. Climb Baroque Clérigos Tower for on-high views; Bolhão Market is a snackers’ dream with its little cones of cheese and wines by-the-glass; and the Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis is the city’s oldest and most well-stocked.
For a romantic break
Vinha Boutique Hotel
Couples, decant to the lip of the Douro wine region, where, on the river’s left bank, hot-pink palacete Vinha Boutique Hotel is the city’s covergirl, with rooms inspired by Hermès, Missoni, Ralph Lauren and other haute big-hitters. But even such well-dressed rooms are almost upstaged by the water-cleaved, undulating greenery surrounding you — there’s ample opportunity to dig in, with gourmet picnics, boat rides, fire pit-cooked alfresco meals and many, many wines to taste.
Other high-end trappings here include a restaurant sporting two Michelin stars and a Sisley spa with Moroccan, Thai and Korean rituals alongside treatments tailored for two.
Best room for couples Each of the Signature Suites has a distinct charm, not only in design — which ranges from Hermès’ elegant subtlety to Lacroix’s maximalism — some have river views, an interior courtyard or other stand-out feature. For the sort of scenic balcony Shakespeare might be inspired by, book the Vinha Master Suite.
Design details Accent walls with illustrations by Hermès-scarf designer Nigel Peake, artworks shaped like giant irises, Ralph Lauren checks, Missoni prints, patterns that run over ceilings, velvets, marbles…the hotel has taken some big design swings, successfully so.
Something to eat Under a fabric canopy depicting extinct animals and around centrepieces of a giant Chinese vase and palm-shaped chandelier, guests enjoy dishes that skew equally exotic by top chef Henrique Sá Pessoa. Think prawn and sweet-potato curry with coconut tapioca, Iberian pork with turnip and apple purée, and chocolate, butternut and tamarind for dessert.
See the sights The hotel’s boat taxi docks in the Ribeira neighbourhood. Tick off sights such as Porto Cathedral, beautifully embellished churches, the 14th-century home of Prince Henry the Navigator, the Miradouro da Vitória from which you can survey the city, and an entry point to the magnificent Dom Luís I Bridge.
For spa spoiling
The Lince Santa Clara
In the search for a fabulous spa hotel in Porto, go the extra mile (or half-hour drive north) to The Lince Santa Clara, where your exertions will be eased in the The Aqueduto Sisley spa. Treatments draw on the contemplative lives of the ‘poor Clares’: nuns who once lived in this former convent. Their lives were intertwined with nature and revered peace and stillness, and — while the treatments might be much more luxurious and less convent-ional — the principles remain the same.
Sensory hot and icy showers, Turkish baths and saunas will detox and refresh you, while Ayurvedic massages and botanical baths filled with lavender sprigs and rose petals soothe. A huge wine cellar and swish cocktail bar feel a touch less saintly, but rooms in chamomile-tea hues are heavenly nonetheless.
Best room for spa seekers The Heritage Suites show off some original stonework, have elegant panelling and enormous showers. Or wash any sins away in the Grand Mansard Suite (named for Portuguese poet José Régio), where a large bath tub sits under a skylight.
Design details Praise be to Portuguese architect Carvalho Araújo, who enhanced the dramatic stone vaults and cloisters of the original nunnery with art deco detailing and statement furnishings. And while the individually tailored staff uniforms might be a monkish brown, designer Micaela Oliveira was called in to break the habit and create a more modern fit.
Something to eat Both Mosteiro and Oculto restaurants sit in the more antique parts of the hotel, with their vaulted ceilings and stone arches. The former is more traditional, heavy on the tender, roasted and grilled meats and octopus; the chefs’ imaginations run wilder in the latter, where tasting menus (serving ‘moments’ rather than ‘courses’) might offer pumpkin and curd cheese with honey and edible flowers, or red prawns in ajo blanco and mirin.
See the sights Vila do Conde, where the hotel sits, might be smaller and sleepier than Porto, but that’s sort of the point. It’s far from devoid of distractions, though, with the Gothic Santa Clara Church, Romanesque aqueduct, replica of the 16th-century Nau Quinhentista ship, and a Bobbin Lace Museum starring Guinness World Record-scoring craftsmanship.
For a beach in reach
Vila Foz Hotel & Spa
Set where the Atlantic flows into the mouth of the Douro River, the affluent Foz do Douro neighbourhood is the city’s beachiest. It suits sunbathers with its golden stretches, is prime watersports territory, and you can even learn to surf here — whatever draws you in, ensure that Vila Foz is where you stay. The 19th-century manor sets you eye-to-eye with the coast; it’s an imposing, turreted building, but the splendour within is brought through exaggerated furnishings, avant-garde light fixtures and down-the-rabbit-hole detailing.
And above the call of the sea, a hat-trick of fine diners and an Anne Semonin spa make a convincing setlist of siren songs.
Best by-the-sea room The Manor House Oceanfront Rooms and Suites have the money-shot views; the Onice Terrace Room has a suntrap balcony with a pair of squishy loungers.
Design details Interiors whizz Nini Andrade Silva has put her stamp on hotels all over the world (including Smith stablemate B.O.G Hotel in Colombia). She’s gone all out to great effect at Vila Foz, refreshing heritage, Baroque elements, while telling a new story through sculptural glass, stone and bronze additions.
Something to eat The hotel has three eateries: two on-site and one a 10-minute walk away. Gilded and glowing Vila Foz Restaurant is where tasting menus that twist tradition or hoist in flavours from the sea play out; Flor de Lis showcases seasonal tastes in dishes such as seafood stew, and pork cheek and asparagus risotto; and there’s yet more coastal cookery at Bistrô by Vila Foz.
See the sights Hotel staff can arrange cruises along the Douro River, bike rides with a private guide, surf lessons, quinta-hopping, wine-tasting tours, and cocktail-making classes. Parks are plentiful in this part of the city and you’re within walking distance of the Sealife Centre, neoclassical Palácio da Bolsa and Serralves Modern Art Museum.
For family getaways
Canto de Luz
If you’re visiting Porto with kids in tow, you’ll want a place that feels like a family home. The French owners of Canto de Luz get it, having spent five years shaping a humble Portuguese townhouse — with a garden hidden out the back and a light-flooding glazed roof — into one of the city’s most welcoming stays. The homemade breakfast changes daily, guests are welcomed in with coffee or a glass of port, and standalone villas offer a touch more privacy.
It has a sense of fun, too, with board games, X-Box consoles and scooters to borrow, and a heated outdoor pool to play in. Plentiful baby kit — highchairs, monitors, toys, cutlery — gives you more suitcase space and the hotel’s prime position lets you explore the Old Town at your leisure.
Most child-friendly room Go for the Urban Apartment or Villa Almada; both have two bedrooms and full kitchens and the latter has its own garden and private pool. If you’re travelling with a squad or planning a multi-generational getaway, the whole hotel (12 bedrooms in total) can be hired exclusively.
Design details The owners have put their personal stamp on the place, with vintage items and colourful furnishings scattered throughout and eye-catching artworks in rooms. From the aquamarine tiles on the frontage to the checkerboard tiles in the breakfast room, to the tasteful mise en place of plants in the garden, it feels bright and cheerful.
Something to eat Breakfast is the only meal served here (aside from petiscos, and ham and cheese platters presented on request throughout the day); but it’s far from a sad, lukewarm buffet. No, made-from-scratch waffles, pancakes, French toasts, pastries and savoury bruschettas — made using ingredients brought in from the garden or Bolhão Market — will rouse even the most ardent sleepyheads. Otherwise the kitchens in apartments and villas offer flexible mealtimes, and the popcorn-maker will amp up your movie-night set-up.
See the sights Porto’s basically a saturated, holiday-ad montage of a perennially delighted family; together you’ll trundle along on a vintage tram, be awed by Harry Potter-inspiring bookshop Livraria Lello (arrive early, the queue snakes down the street), run free in Parque da Cidade’s playgrounds, and turn Wonka in a workshop at The Chocolate Story.
For nightlife
Cocorico
We would say that there’s a je ne sais quoi to oh-so-chic, French-accented Cocorico hotel (part of the Millésime group), but we know exactly what makes it so appealing: its breezy Riviera style with white walls and blue-green curtains and glass panels; its Parisian-style bistro (with a welcome slug of Douro wines); drinks on the sun-kissed Moorish terrace… Oui, love it.
It’s set in the Sé Quarter, the city’s oldest, with Unesco-protected treasures all around; and there’s a huge cluster of buzzy bar tipicos, wine-sipping spots and cocktail joints in the Baixa and Ribeira ‘hoods a short walk away. So, in fact, Cocorico rather suits those smack-bang in the know.
Best room for post-partying recovery The Suite Prestige’s decor — Santorini-style white walls, floaty curtains, shades of soft blue — is easy on the bleary-eyed, and a soak in the freestanding bath tub will revive you. Plus, it sleeps up to four guests should you bring party pals along.
Design details There’s original iron and tilework throughout this stylish conversion, but the new owners’ injection of colour throughout — from marine to spice hues — is a welcome addition.
Something to eat Cocorico’s bistro might feel French, with its banquettes, Moorish tiling and Rococo mirrors; but the petiscos are very much of Porto, from grilled sardines and codfish ceviche to an array of regional wines. It feels like a night-starting place, with just enough stomach-liners to keep you on the straight and narrow. On Friday it kicks off the fun with live music, too.
See the sights The bairros surrounding you are the chirpiest of night owls, with bars for all tastes. Sip alfresco at park-set Base Porto, or gaze lovingly at Baroque Igreja do Carmo from Embaixada do Porto’s terrace. Quirky Bonaparte Downtown is crammed with vintage memorabilia; low-key Cachaçaria is soaked in Brazilian spirit; and graffiti-sprayed, neon-bathed Torto is an inarguably cool cocktails hangout.
For culture
Tipografia do Conto
Built in the 19th century as a design workshop, now a hotel, Tipografia do Conto is the kind of place creatives still gravitate to. Deco details remain, but the new owners have put their stamp on the space, carving typefaces and fragments of works by Portuguese writers into concrete walls and ceilings in a Brutalist-leaning update.
The stay’s cultural cachet is chiselled in further in Hifun Bar, where there are author readings, art exhibitions, fashion shows, film screenings and live music, so you’re immersed in the city’s cool crowd without even trying. There are hundreds of design books to flip through too — the best place to do so is in a quiet corner of the hotel’s secret garden, perhaps in a crocheted hammock.
Best room for literary sorts The Suite Rooftop rooms may not be the largest, but they’re well placed for city views to muse over. For more writing space and covetable retro furnishings, opt for the Suite Penthouse.
Design details Thankfully, the inspiring quotes here are more rousing than ‘live, laugh, love’, coming from writers, designers and architects. And aesthetes will be just as moved by the building’s façade, meant to resemble the boxes typeset letters were stored in, as well as the interplay of walnut wood and concrete, and textures both refined and rough. If it’s your style, be sure to check out sister stay Casa do Conto.
Something to eat The hotel’s more about spiritual sustenance, only serving a buffet breakfast in its bar area. But you won’t waste away like a Victorian poet; the Cedofeita neighbourhood’s dining scene simmers away temptingly, with Bao’s Taiwanese Burger dishing up whole crabs and marinated meats in pillowy buns, laden grills at Meia-Nau and elegant bistro fare at Alto.
See the sights Walk along Avenida da Boavista to see the solemn Monumento aos Heróis da Guerra Peninsular, and, just beyond that, those staying at Tipografia will appreciate the geometric architecture of concert hall Casa da Música. Find artsy souvenirs at Ó! Galeria and sister shop Ó! Cerâmica, and get hot-off-the-kiln-or-sketchpad wares at creative co-working space Cru. Finish with glasses of natural wines at buzzy bar Genuino.
For a budget-friendly trip
Rosa Et Al Townhouse
BOGOF fans will be thrilled with the bargain they get at Rosa Et Al Townhouse. For under £100 a night, you don’t just get a room dressed with mid-century finds (splash out a little more and you could have your own private garden area, too), but a spa haven with Asiatic in-room rituals, personalised service, semi-secret supper clubs and lavish brunching with an artsy crowd.
You’re in Porto’s creatively charged Cedofeita neighbourhood, so there’s a dynamic energy to days spent here, which is further enhanced by the fact that co-owner Emanuel — an architect by trade — won a Respect for Architecture award for the townhouse’s renovation.
Best value room The Townhouse Suite Club will replace those pound signs in your eyes with hearts, thanks to its antique clawfoot bath tub, original exposed beams and private balcony.
Design details Aesthetically angular wood furnishings, the odd flash of beam, fluffy bed throws and industrial lighting complement both the townhouse’s vintage and its stylish, modern attitude. The garden, with its hand-cut canopies, is charming too.
Something to eat Aside from a Sunday roast on the first Sunday of each month and a range of supper clubs with vibrant crowds, the hotel only serves brunch — but it’s one so renowned that the owners have published a cook book with recipes for the likes of pastries and pancakes, croques and Benedicts, and Iberian favourites.
See the sights The hotel owners practically run this ‘hood, or at least set the cultural tone — next door they have style collective and gallery space Earlymade, and on Rua de Bragas they have Seventies-hued brunch joint Early Cedofeita, where you can go for seconds.
For all-out luxury
Maison Albar Le Monumental Palace
As if the name didn’t give it away, Maison Albar Le Monumental Palace is the sort of blue-blood that cracks open a leatherbound book by the fireplace in the library, takes brightening Augustinus Bader treatments in the spa and dines in Michelin-starred style. Set in the 1930s Café Monumental, the hotel’s all polished columns, deep-pile rugs, the silkiest of bedding and art deco angles.
Its Gothic façade — with a few art nouveau flourishes — sits on super-central Avenida dos Aliados, close to all the tick-off sights. Set your expectations as high as the life it offers, with French and Japanese-Brazilian dining and an American bar that swings you back into travel’s Golden Age.
Most extravagant room Book one of the hotel’s generously outfitted suites, all of which have names befitting their bougie nature: Insane, Audacious, Fabulous, Excessive, Monumental, and…um, Scary (although we’re unsure why, as it’s very pleasant). Each has a bed with a plump headboard, deep-soaking bath tub and extremely dapper design to make it look like a Thirties apartment.
Design details It definitely feels like no expense was spared here: there’s an authentic luxury to the lacquered furnishings, marbles with wild striations and the mermaid-tail-tiled spa pool. But confident pattern and colour clashing gives it some real character, too.
Something to eat French eatery Le Monument is the gold-star spot, where chef Julien Montbabut’s ‘Travellers’ menu’ maps out his culinary journeys around Portugal in dishes such as Merino lamb with black garlic, and crab with mustard and yuzu. Yakuza Porto serves the daintiest plates of Japanese-Brazilian fare.
See the sights Cross the Dom Luís I Bridge, which has spectacular views (watch out vertigo-sufferers) to the Vila Nova de Gaia neighbourhood. This is the city’s major port-wine hub, so take tastings at Graham’s, Taylor’s and Cockburn’s cellars. Luckily it has plentiful culinary clout too, so you can soak up some excesses at two-Michelin-star-holding The Yeatman or with steaming pots of fish stew and confit meats at Restaurante Dona Maria — both of which have panoramic city views.
For serious design cred
Village by Boa
Village by Boa was born out of a community-building project that grouped workers’ houses together, and while it might have been converted into a brace of stylish, self-contained apartments, its ‘village’ feel is felt in its motto: ‘welcome home, please come in’. Under the care of the Pablo Pita architecture firm and Bacana Design Studio, these no longer look like labourers’ residences, with organic Nordic and Japandi influences seriously upping their look.
You may be tempted to lounge around like you own the place, but there’s an on-site fitness centre and deli to familiarise yourself with, and a concierge to point out the best bits of the neighbourhood. ‘Boa’ means ‘good’ in Portuguese and it’s no mere boast.
Most stylish room Cosmopolitan twosomes will be perfectly cosy in the well-laid-out Studio, but could upgrade to a duplex for longer-term stays. Fashion-forward families should book the Deluxe Two Bedroom.
Design details Calming neutral hues are given a lift by adding plenty of chairs in interesting shapes, abstract bed throws, an assortment of ceramics and a symphony of textures.
Something to eat There’s no restaurant, but each apartment comes with a kitchen so well-equipped it even has a popcorn machine. Market by Boa is a small deli on-site, but you’re just a 15-minute walk from the Mercado do Bolhão, one of Porto’s finest, from which you’ll return with totes full of fresh produce, tinned fish, cheeses and meats and stacks of sweet queijadas (a cross between a cheesecake and a cupcake).
See the sights From the market, cross the Rua de Fernandes Tomás to the Chapel of Souls, famous for its coating of emblematic blue-and-white tiles. Shop-hop the high-street outposts (Zara, Benetton, Calzedonia) along Rua de Santa Catarina, stopping in the famous, art nouveau Café Majestic for a breather in-between. Come evening, be awed by daily dance and music performances at the grand Ageas Porto Coliseum.
Now see the best of the rest in our full collection of hotels in Porto