One of the UK’s most remote regions is also among its most captivating. At the UK’s rugged south-western extent, where Atlantic waves reach British shores, Cornwall is defined by soaring cliffs, breathtaking beaches and picture-perfect fishing villages, making it ideal for a weekend break. Yet its landscapes offer a study in contrast, too. Less exposed than north Cornwall’s windswept coastline, the south is known for its sheltered bays, scenic estuaries and charismatic towns with strong sailing traditions.
South Cornwall also packs plenty of cultural clout, having inspired successive generations of artists, authors and musicians, many of whom have left behind a lasting legacy. This, coupled with a subtropical climate and a dynamic dining scene based on first-class produce from the sea, fields and vineyards, create a compelling case to make it your next holiday destination.
FRIDAY: EVENING
Accessible by train and shaped by its connection to the sea, Falmouth is home to a bustling harbour, Blue Flag beaches and a sizeable student population, giving it a year-round buzz and strong indie spirit. As boats chug back and forth on the Fal Estuary, the town’s bunting-clad High Street is home to a clutch of chic cafés, galleries and boutiques, while coastal paths lead hikers out of town to hidden creeks and dramatic headlands.
Base yourself at The Sandy Duck, which — sat between the High Street and Gyllyngvase and Swanpool beaches — puts the best of the town within reach. This boutique bed and breakfast is Scandi in style, with mid-century furnishings and a pared-back palette colouring just eight rooms, the best of which have rolltop bath tubs and bay views. Freshen up, then head out to explore Falmouth’s fast-evolving dining scene. Chef Hylton Espey’s restaurant Culture picked up a Michelin Green Star for a menu that champions locally farmed and foraged ingredients, while small plates pair perfectly with craft beers at the Verdant Seafood Bar. Plan to stay out? The Cornish Bank is among the south-west’s best live-music venues, hosting a diverse roster of cult and emerging acts.
SATURDAY: MORNING
Tap into Falmouth’s third-wave coffee culture at Beacon Coffee, whose owners Alex and Sam source beans from world’s best growers. Then catch the ferry across the estuary to the sailing haven of St Mawes. Expect to spot the imposing Pendennis Castle, St Anthony’s Lighthouse and — potentially — visiting pods of dolphins during the 20-minute journey.
From St Mawes, a circular walk around the headland serves up spectacular vistas across the estuary en route to the charming St-Just-in-Roseland church, surrounded by sub-tropical gardens. Reward your exertions with a browse through the town’s galleries and boutiques, before bagging an outdoor table at the St Mawes Hotel for lunch. Here, while watching the to and fro of harbour life, pick from a menu where highlights include hyperlocal scallops and mussels.
SATURDAY: AFTERNOON
Drive south-west from Falmouth to find some of Cornwall’s most captivating corners. The Helford River (around a 20-minute drive) promises characterful villages, densely forested slopes and narrow inlets that have been used by sailors, smugglers and seal-spotters for centuries. Drop into family-run café and bakery Flora for a post-lunch pick-me-up before heading onwards towards Penzance, an hour’s drive away.
An unmistakable sight along the way is St Michael’s Mount — an ancient tidal island rising out of the ocean at Mount’s Bay, crowned by a castle. At low tide, it’s accessible on foot; otherwise hop on a ferry to explore its fortified former priory and walled gardens amid lofty views along the south Cornwall coast.
SATURDAY: EVENING
A market town with a strong fishing pedigree, Penzance’s hotel scene has had a welcome upgrade in recent years. Check into the charismatic Artist Residence Cornwall hotel, where upcycled furniture, flea-market finds and vibrant, one-off artworks have transformed a Georgian townhouse into an hip haven with 22 rooms plus the Clubhouse: a cosy restaurant and bar with a terrace (and its own smokehouse), where an inventive menu applies international influences to local produce.
Alternatively, a wander along the seafront will deliver you to Newlyn, where Argoe restaurant, located on the harbour, has been making waves for its sustainable approach to seafood and creatively plated dishes, all served alongside a nuanced natural-wine list as fishing boats bob in the background.
SUNDAY: MORNING
Start the day right with a bracing dip in an art deco gem. The UK’s largest seawater pool, the Jubilee Lido, a five-minute walk from the hotel, juts out into Mount Bay, and has an additional geothermal pool and sauna as an alternative for those requiring more encouragement. West of Newlyn, the landscapes get wilder as you approach Land’s End. Beyond Mousehole (a 10-minute drive away) and Porthcurno Beach (a further 30-minute drive), where the path hugs the coastal contours up towards the magical, outdoor Minack Theatre — with its tiered, sea-facing seats — and the surfing hotspot of Sennen, the road veers north. Here, pops of yellow gorse and hardy sheep are dotted between granite outcrops and remnants of Cornwall’s tin-mining industry. Pause for lunch at The Gurnard’s Head, a vivid, yellow-hued hostelry that offers a fine line in local seafood, before continuing to St Ives.
SUNDAY: AFTERNOON
Overlooking Porthmeor Beach, the Tate St Ives champions the work of the many artists who have called the town home; discover the diverse output of the 20th-century St Ives school alongside a revolving cast of international talent. A wander through the town’s picturesque streets brings you to the former studio of British sculptor Barbara Hepworth. Now home to a permanent museum, this serene space features her beautiful bronzes dotted throughout the garden and offers inspiring insight into her life and work.
A 30-minute drive east brings you to Gwithian Beach, one of Cornwall’s best for surfing. Park among the dunes here and pick up boards and wetsuits from Global Boarders before immersing yourself in the swell overlooked by Godrevy Lighthouse.
SUNDAY: EVENING
A 48-hour break can easily turn into a long weekend down here so, as the light fades, retreat back to the dunes for sunset before checking in at Three Mile Beach. This hotel has a stylish collection of self-contained beach houses — laidback but luxurious lodgings for groups or families, many with their own barbecue, hot tub or sauna. You’ll have a wood-burner for cooler weather and shelves well stocked with books and board games. And while the on-site Chomp café makes a worthy post-surf spot for snacks and drinks, staff can also organise the delivery of a pizza oven to your hideaway, accompanied by dough balls and all the toppings needed to sign off the weekend in style.
NEED TO KNOW
Transport Given its remoteness, the best way to experience Cornwall is by car, which opens up the region’s best beaches and lesser-known corners. However, the London to Penzance train, which also offers a sleeper service, is an excellent, greener alternative, with various jumping-off points where you can access branch lines to destinations such as St Ives and Falmouth.
When to go With its favourable climate and fantastic beaches, Cornwall is understandably one of the UK’s most beloved holiday spots. Its popularity, combined with its narrow lanes and limited infrastructure, can make the region feel somewhat crushed during peak summer months. Instead, consider the shoulder months of April and May, and September and October, when crowds are smaller, rates lower and weather conditions generally pleasant.
What to buy Blessed with warm sun and cool sea breezes, Cornwall’s winemakers are going from strength to strength, with the Polgoon Vineyard, close to Penzance, excelling in sparkling, still whites and ciders. Origin Coffee and Tarquin’s Gin are also county-born success stories, as is Atlantic Coastal Supplies, which serves up stylish workwear and marine-themed apparel from a small store near St Ives’ Porthmeor Beach.
Good to know Cornwall’s coastal path is heaven for hikers, traversing cliffs, headlands and bays across 300 scenic miles, but a new pilgrimage route cuts directly across the south of the county and offers a worthy inland alternative. Running from Lelant (close to St Ives) to St Michael’s Mount on the south coast, the St Michael’s Way is an official extension of the Camino de Santiago and — just 14 miles in length — is achievable in a day.
Bags packed? Explore our full collection of hotels in Cornwall
Ben Olsen is a freelance writer and editor specialising in travel, food, design and culture, whose editorial experience includes senior roles at Roadbook, Monocle, GQ and ELLE.