Ah, Paris. City of lights, love and liberté, the compact capital has made a name for itself with its talent for romance and rebellious spirit alike. Its striking good looks haven’t hurt, either; wide Haussmannian boulevards, gravity-defying monuments, cobbled river banks and artfully tousled neighbourhoods come together in a cinematic whole that’s bound to win over even the most hardened of hearts.
Brush away the clichés, though, and you’re left with a real place where people live, work and move with the times. Following an Olympic glow-up, the city feels optimistic and open to the world. You could up sticks and move here for a month or three and barely start to scratch the surface, but a well-planned weekend break is all it takes to fall hopelessly in love. Here’s how to spend 48 hours in Paris…
FRIDAY: EVENING
Le Grand Hôtel Cayré
Drop your bags off in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. More designer haven than bohemian haunt these days, the once avant-garde Left Bank district is still the perfect spot from which to explore the must-see sites along the river. Checking in at Le Grand Hôtel Cayré feels like coming home to your own chic Parisian apartment — some rooms even have balconies with hard-to-beat Eiffel Tower views.
Get your bearings on foot — the narrow grid of streets between rue du Bac and rue Bonaparte are perfect for pootling, packed as they are with art galleries and neighbourhood bistros. Grab a light dinner at Yen, a minimalist noodle joint where fresh soba is made from buckwheat flour ground on-site. Then head to Cravan — the seductive cocktail bar sprawls over four individually designed floors, complete with a bookshop and tiny outdoor cinema; nab a terrace table for one of the best people-watching spots in town.
SATURDAY: MORNING
Fuel the day’s excursions with a cup of something dark and strong. The local literati still hang out at Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore, the side-by-side hangouts of the likes of Sartre and Picasso. Although, be warned: these days, you might find yourself queuing behind influencers in search of the perfect shot. To look the part, pop into nearby bookshop L’Écume des Pages for a classic tome or two; the stationery aisle alone is worth a browse, should your French reading skills be a bit rusty.
Once you’ve reconnected with your inner existentialist, turn your attention to more earthly pursuits. If you’ve no time for a lengthy shopping spree, make a beeline for chic department store Le Bon Marché and its fabulous food hall — we’ve yet to find someone left cold by a jar of Christine Ferber jam. For design inspiration, pop into Hermès across the road: alongside the usual Birkin bags and silk scarves, you’ll find a tea room, florist and bookshop in its lofty space that once housed an art deco swimming pool.
SATURDAY: AFTERNOON
Cour des Vosges
After a restorative lunch at Les Antiquaires (come for the oysters, stay for the crêpes Suzette), take the pedal off the metal. Amble along the Seine, admiring its second-hand book stalls, then cross the Pont Neuf, Paris’s oldest bridge, into the historic Île de la Cité. Pay your respects to Notre-Dame cathedral, free from scaffolding after five years of round-the-clock repairs — a gloriously Gothic testament to human resilience.
Once you’ve had your fill of flying buttresses and finely carved gargoyles, stop by Berthillon on Île Saint-Louis for a scoop of seasonal sorbet — or hop across the river for rooftop drinks at Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers. Thirsts quenched and views admired, get a culture hit at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, which celebrates the work of both established and emerging photographers, or at the former home of The Hunchback of Notre-Dame scribe Victor Hugo, on genteel Place des Vosges. Fun fact: the prolific writer would have been a #designinspo smash on Instagram. Peckish? Tucked away under the square’s photogenic red-and-white arches, Cour des Vosges hotel’s Terrace café serves all-day light bites, including a mean croque-monsieur.
SATURDAY: EVENING
Now that you’re in the heart of the ever-hip Marais, there’s no excuse for room service. Wander around the cobbled streets to soak up the lively atmosphere, making your way up the Canal Saint-Martin until a bar or bistro strikes your fancy. Nearby, Qui Plume La Lune has earned a Michelin star for its whimsical decor and intricate plating. For something more casual, listening bars are having a bit of a moment in Paris; grab a table at Bambino for small plates, natural wines and great tunes.
A visit to a bijou cocktail bar is de rigueur, too; try Gravity Bar, or Bisou’s no-menu concoctions. Or hop on the Metro for a nightcap at Rosewood Hôtel de Crillon’s Rococo Bar les Ambassadeurs, where the drinks menu is seasonal and the lights dimmed just-so.
SUNDAY: MORNING
Mob House
While many independent shops close on Sundays, brocantes (flea markets) often pop up around the city. If you’re lucky enough to stumble across one, make time for a browse: you’re sure to walk away clutching a vintage bowl or designer coat to your delighted breast. Or don’t leave it to luck and head for the Saint-Ouen flea market, just north of Montmartre. The vast, warren-like site links up different antique markets, each with its own focus. The original, Marché Vernaison, is one of the most charming — search for vintage treasure among its courtyards and narrow alleyways. At Chez Sarah, you’ll find everything from Edwardian lace slips to 1970s fur coats; Marché Paul Bert Serpette is a shopping paradise for interior designers. Brunch is served from 12–2.30pm at nearby Mob House. The charcuterie boards, mezze, pastas and gourmet burgers are all organic, and there’s on-site daycare for €10 a tyke.
SUNDAY: AFTERNOON
Book ahead for a visit of Galerie Dior, an enchanting mise-en-scène of the couture house’s variegated history, on the site of its first atelier. The tour feels like walking through the world’s best-stocked walk-in wardrobe, complete with ethereal mock-ups, diaphanous gowns and the iconic ‘bar suit’.
From Avenue Montaigne, it’s a five-minute walk to the Grand Palais. The monumental steel-and-glass exhibition hall is still undergoing restoration, but its iconic central nave has now reopened for special events. Don’t despair if you’re not on the guest list for Chanel’s runway shows — you can still get tickets to its expertly curated art shows and seasonal ice-skating rink.
SUNDAY: EVENING
If you’ve time to squeeze in dinner before you head home, book a table at Les Enfants Rouges. Japanese chef Daï Shinozuka trained with bistronomy pioneer Yves Camdeborde, so expect inventive takes on market-fresh French fare. For last drinks, call at Le Syndicat. Hidden behind a nondescript door, the gold-clad bar champions French spirits and hip-hop. Keep an eye on your watch, or you might very well find yourself staying another night.
NEED TO KNOW
Merci
Transport Eurostar trains from the UK, Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands conveniently arrive at Gare du Nord, in the heart of the city. If you’re flying in, taxi rides from Charles de Gaulle airport are a flat fare of €56 for the Right Bank, and €65 for the Left Bank. The Metro is a fast and easy way to get around, if you avoid rush hour; download the IDF Mobilités app to avoid queuing for tickets. Self-service Vélib bikes are a great way to see the city, if you stick to the cycle paths; local traffic can feel a bit aggressive.
When to go If Cole Porter’s classic song is anything to go by, Paris is a year-round destination. Spring, when locals shed their winter coats to reclaim the city’s parks and terraces, is particularly pleasant. Many shops and restaurants close for the month of August, when tourists descend en masse and Parisians head to the more balmy coasts.
What to buy French supermarkets are a cut above the rest: pop into your nearest Franprix or Monop’ to stock up on terrines, pickles and pur beurre biscuits to take home. Astier de Villatte’s dainty ceramics, elegant incense sticks and eye-catching stationery make perfect presents — if you can bear to give them away. In the Marais, concept store Merci is a good alternative to the cavernous department stores on boulevard Haussmann. Whether you’re in the market for fine linens or men’s accessories, its curators have impeccable taste.
Good to know It’s not unusual to find an early-morning queue for croissants at your local bakery. It’s worth popping in around 4pm, too, when French school kids pick up a snack on their way home. You might be rewarded with one of life’s great pleasures: a still warm baguette, straight from the oven.
Seeking another short, chic break? See more of our 48-hour city guides