There’s no doubting Devon’s credentials as one of the UK’s top weekend break destinations; the north alone has more to offer than most other counties do in their entirety. There are windswept moors and sweeping, sandy bays; gritstone cliffs and gushing waterways; red cattle, rare orchids, feral goats; tea and scones — with cream on first; pixies, ‘piskies’; sailors, smugglers and so much more. Here’s our guide to long weekends in wonderfully wild North Devon.
FRIDAY AFTERNOON
Rest + Wild Exmoor
Yes, there are tourist spots up in North Devon, but the region is quieter and wilder than the county’s southern counterpart. So why not lean into this remoteness and check in at Rest + Wild Exmoor, a string of pin-drop peaceful cabins right on the national park’s border. Or secure one of the suites or cottages dotted across The Collective at Woolsery, where lodgings are dispersed throughout a picture-box village much like a southern Italian albergo diffuso. Both will ease you into the more relaxed way of life here; but you might prefer to opt for an endorphin boost, bookending your stay with a week-long detox at luxe wellness retreat Yeotown Devon, a 17th-century farmhouse surrounded by orchards where hikes through woodland to the Atlantic Coast are accompanied by other exertions.
FRIDAY EVENING
If you’re at The Collective at Woolsery, your dinner choices include the Farmer’s Arms, the hotel’s local pub, or the excellent on-site fish and chip shop. Or book ahead for a table at intimate, couple-run Number Eight in Bideford (open Thursday to Saturday), where the seasonal tasting menu champions local produce such as Appledore plaice and Exmoor beef. Then walk it off with a stroll over the mediaeval Long Bridge or drift through the narrow streets behind the quay. In Barnstaple, the Maiden Arch by Robert Bryant serves clever, Michelin-approved cooking without the seaside bustle. There are mediaeval lanes here, too, near pretty St Anne’s Chapel.
SATURDAY MORNING
Croyde
Buttery pastries and hearty baps are served on the top deck of The Boathouse at Instow, with views across the Taw-Torridge estuary. From here, head north, crossing the Taw at Barnstaple, to nearby Saunton Sands and the Unesco-designated dunes at Braunton Burrows, home to 11 species of orchid among other unique wildlife. Continue along the Atlantic Coast to witness the dramatic panoramas of Croyde and Putsborough beaches, plus many other smaller coves and inlets. Further on is the Baggy Point circular walk via Bloodhills Cliff, taking in a headland popular with bird watchers and rock climbers.
SATURDAY AFTERNOON
Stop for lunch at the Barricane Beach Café — essentially a tiny cabin in an equally tiny bay that serves authentic Sri Lankan curries. From here, keep going along the coast to Ilfracombe, a rugged Victorian seaside town and emerging cultural enclave, where Damien Hirst’s monumental Verity sculpture presides over a working harbour lined with art galleries. Here, too, is the western boundary of Exmoor National Park, whose 60-kilometre coast is punctuated by Heddon’s Mouth, a picturesque cove at the end of a steep ravine; and the Valley of the Rocks, whose unusual caves and rock formations are the domain of feral goats. At the park’s eastern edge, on the border between Devon and Somerset, is the Doone Valley — setting for R.D. Blackmore’s 18th-century novel Lorna Doone — and the tiny hamlet of Malmsmead, with its ancient packhorse bridge and cluster of tea rooms.
SATURDAY EVENING
The Masons Arms
For dinner, take a scenic drive over the moors to Knowstone, a sleepy village with a thatched, 13th-century inn, The Masons Arms, whose impressive à la carte menu includes dishes such as venison and blue-cheese gratin with red-wine pear; and monkfish wrapped in prosciutto. After dinner, turn your attention skywards: Exmoor has been recognised as Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserve thanks to its very low level of light pollution. For the adventurous there’s the Dark Sky Discovery Trail, lit by glow-in-the-dark signs near the atmospheric ruins of Larkbarrow Farm. However, to pair constellation-spotting with after-dinner cocktails we prefer The Poltimore Inn, which has its own observatory and calendar of stargazing events.
SUNDAY MORNING
Across the water from Instow is the fishing village of Appledore, where The Market Street Kitchen serves one of the area’s best full English breakfasts, as well as brunches and afternoon teas. Or have a wander in its art galleries and independent shops. If it’s raining, duck into the lovely little North Devon Maritime Museum. Further inland, just south of Exmoor, is Quince Honey Farm. Those fond of the sticky stuff will enjoy tastings and hive tours, and the deliciously heathery produce — made on its honeycomb-shaped grounds — finds its way onto the cafeteria’s menu, in sweet chutneys and an afternoon tea where scones can be slathered in honey instead of jam.
SUNDAY AFTERNOON
Roasts are a rite of passage in North Devon, especially when locally bred Red Ruby beef or Gloucester Old Spot pork with local-cider-spiked gravy are on the menu. Two stand-out pubs serving a generous Sunday lunch are The Kings Arms in Georgeham, a short drive from Croyde and Putsborough beaches, and the thatched Chichester Arms at Bishops Tawton.
NEED TO KNOW
When to go North Devon is a year-round destination, where the beaches come into their own in the summer, and where the coaching inns with their flagstone floors and cosy fireplaces are the place to be come winter.
Transport By car, the most direct route to North Devon is via the M5, exiting at junction 27 and following the A361 link road towards Barnstaple, the gateway to the region. If you’re coming by train, the nearest mainline station is Tiverton Parkway, with connections from London Paddington. Once you’re in North Devon, getting around is easiest by car, especially for exploring fishing villages, beaches and Exmoor.
What to buy Swap the fridge magnet for hand-thrown coastal ceramics from the Appledore Crafts Company or pick up original art and limited-edition prints from local galleries such as Sandy Brown’s Studio or the Appledore Gallery. Gourmet types can slip a wedge of Devon Blue cheese, a bottle of small-batch gin, or even a cheeky cider brandy into their luggage.
Good to know The age-old Devon vs Somerset cream tea rivalry is alive and well… and deliciously petty. In Devon, it’s sacrilege unless you go cream first, jam on top. (Over the border in Somerset, they flip it: jam first, then a dollop of cream). It’s why you’ll notice cars in Devon proudly sporting stickers emblazoned with ‘CREAM FIRST’.
See our full collection of hotels in Devon or be inspired by more of our 48-hour guides