Forget morning, afternoon and evening: Istanbul time is punctuated by five daily calls to prayer, broadcast from the city’s many mosques — Fajr (dawn), Zuhr (midday), Asr (afternoon), Maghrib (sunset), and Isha (night).
Here, East and West meet in a captivating kaleidoscope of mosques, museums, bars and bazaars — this Bosphorus-straddling city is culture-rich, born from the legacies of the Ottoman and Byzantine empires. And its lively past can still be felt in its present pace: ferries dart from port to port, traders market their wares, street food sizzles on makeshift stands. Even though the city sprawls, you’ll also find walkable neighbourhoods, each with their own distinct character. Here’s our guide to 48-hours in Istanbul…
FRIDAY: AFTERNOON
(Asj)
Base yourself at Beyoğlu bolthole Soho House Istanbul. The house is set within Palazzo Corpi, a grand building with marble staircases, 19th-century frescoes and high ceilings. There’s a beautifully outfitted underground gym and boxing ring, a bells-and-whistles Cowshed spa, and a rooftop pool and bar with views of the city. Pay close attention to what’s on the walls — there are more than 350 works of art on display, a curated collection that represents the past, present and future of largely Turkish artists.
Once settled, make your first excursion the nearby Galerist, a contemporary studio space with revolving exhibitions. From there walk to Galata, a picturesque neighbourhood with winding streets. Do your first spot of shopping on the boutique-filled Serdar-ı Ekrem street and pay a visit to the impressive Genoese-built Galata Tower.
FRIDAY: EVENING
(Maghrib and Isha)
When the sun dips, head to Tavern (open from 6pm). This laid-back spot serves innovative cocktails, natural wines and small plates (don’t miss the honey-fried chicken). Patrons from the bijou bar often spill out into the street, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, when the crowd is at its liveliest. Make sure to try the ‘Metametameta 3.0’: a balanced and botanical concoction of gin mare, chamomile-infused vermouth, pine bitters and pine-cone syrup.
Feast on a thoughtfully curated seven-course tasting menu at Yeni Lokanta, a candlelit retreat tucked just south of the famed shopping avenue İstiklal Caddesi. The menu brings together bold flavours and traditional Turkish ingredients — we loved the manti dumplings to start and the warm, pistachio-loaded baklava roll to end.
SATURDAY: MORNING
(Fajr and Zuhr)
Seize your first full day by waking before the city does. Wander down to the Bosphorus strait and cross the picturesque Galata Bridge from Karaköy to Eminönü — you’ll likely find some company there as early-bird fishermen cast their first lines of the day. Once you’re over the bridge, navigate past the bazaars (you’ll come back to them later) to the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, often referred to as the Blue Mosque, and marvel at the architecture and interiors without the crowds — it’s free to enter, just check opening times in advance as they shift with the seasons.
Next is breakfast at Boris’in Yeri, a historic, family-run dairy and café. It’s no frills, with a simple menu, mismatching furniture and cash-only payments. Order the bal kaymak — a traditional Turkish breakfast combining honey with a dairy product similar to clotted cream — a portion of menemen (scrambled eggs cooked with herbs, tomatoes and green peppers), and a cup of Turkish tea.
Chart a course back to the Bosphorus via the Grand Bazaar — a delightfully dizzying maze of 4,000-plus stalls across more than 60 covered streets. It’s one of the largest markets in the world, so take your time browsing and lean into getting a bit lost. Once you’ve purchased enough to warrant a second suitcase, continue your walk to the Spice Bazaar: a historic 17th-century market with all you need to punch up a meal, plus sauces and soaps.
You’re in the perfect spot for lunch: Pandeli is on the upper floor, accessed by a narrow staircase in the bottom-left corner of the bazaar. The turquoise-tiled haunt dates back to 1901, with a notable list of prior patrons (Audrey Hepburn, Queen Elizabeth II and founding father of the Republic of Türkiye, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, to name a few). Try the patlıcanı böreği (eggplant pie), which is served with a sliver of döner kebab on top; the grilled seabass with ıspanak püresi ile (mashed spinach); and the oven-baked white fish cooked in paper.
SATURDAY: AFTERNOON
(Asr and Maghrib)
After lunch, amble back across the bridge. Afternoon is a lovely time to explore Galataport, the vamped-up city docks with plenty of shopping, restaurants, cafés and bars. Head up to the rooftop of Smith hideout The Bank Hotel in plenty of time (around 6pm is a good shout) for a sundowner — the bar boasts knockout views of what is surely one of the most varied skylines in the world. Accompany the views with a classic cocktail, local beer or crisp wine.
SATURDAY: EVENING
(Isha)
Return to your room at Soho House Istanbul to change for dinner. Don’t rush — you won’t be going far. Tucked inside the courtyard of the Palazzo is the Turkish outpost of Mediterranean eatery Cecconi’s. Tables are scattered between olive trees and antique pillars, making it a deeply romantic spot for after–dark dining. Begin with a Negroni and follow with the crostini with whipped ricotta and truffle honey, the cacio e pepe tagliolini, and a Milanese to share. If you’re in the mood for a liquid dessert, there’s always the rooftop bar of the house for a nightcap with a view.
SUNDAY: MORNING
(Fajr)
It’s a Sunday, so we’re not actually suggesting you’re up at dawn — but when you do roll out from under your marshmallow-like duvet, order your first coffee of the day at Petra Roasting Co Şişhane. It’s an industrial-style spot with smooth coffee, cakes and a pleasing decor of dark-wood benches, cork cushions and aluminium tables.
Nearby is Minoa Pera, an elegantly designed bookshop and café. Browse the shelves packed with Turkish novels, international bestsellers and an abundance of excellent stationary.
SUNDAY: AFTERNOON
(Zahr and Asr)
Having spent much of your weekend in Europe, it’s finally time to cross continents to Asia. Take the ferry across to Kadıköy from Karaköy. The journey across is only 30 minutes, but we’d suggest boarding early to nab a perimeter seat — the views are part of the journey. Once back on land, direct your maps towards Moda. There’s some seriously good shopping on this bank (pop into Tellalzade Antiques and Uniquers Store), with notably less crowds than Eminönü.
Spend the rest of your afternoon in the leafy neighbourhood of Moda, where we loved Walter’s for coffee and cake, and Fein or Rafine for a long, lazy lunch. Walk it off at nearby Kadıköy Moda Sahil Parkı, where there’s a peaceful promenade to follow around the river, plus grassy stretches and rocky outcrops to park up on with a book.
SUNDAY: EVENING
(Maghrib and Isha)
Book an Uber to Six Senses Kocataş Mansions, which is a 45-minute drive from central Istanbul. The aim for Sunday evening is to relax after a high-step-count weekend. Few places afford a better break from the melee than the Turkish outpost of Six Senses, a wellness-first Smith staple. The hotel is split across two waterfront Ottoman mansions but with expansive grounds that also house an infinity-pool, extensive spa and Bosphorus-facing cocktail bar. Book in for a solo, couple or group hammam at the spa. The indulgent treatment starts with a cleansing steam and body scrub followed by a full-body foam wash and moisturising massage.
There are plenty of options for dinner: get a taste of Italian at Scalini, try Toro for a menu that brings together Asian and South American flavours, or head up to glitzy Sax bar for dining with a view. There’s often live music at Sax, disrupted only by the final call to prayer — which you could interpret as a call to bed, or not…
NEED TO KNOW
Transport Istanbul Airport is one of the largest in the world, with flights arriving frequently from the UK, Europe, USA and Asia. Allow just under an hour to get from the airport to most destinations — be that the Soho House, Six Senses, or directly into the city centre. There are also multiple train lines that reach Istanbul from other European hubs. You’ll arrive at Sirkeci Station, which is centrally located in the city.
When to go March to May and September to November are great for exploring — but September and October see the city at its best with late-season sunshine and dry days. If you can handle the heat, then summer is an exciting time in Istanbul: the city becomes largely alfresco, with seating spilling out to pavements from cafés, restaurants and bars. There’s also the Istanbul Jazz Festival, which usually falls around July.
What to buy Stockpile sumac at the Spice Bazaar (beeline for Kalmaz Baharat for particularly good-quality seasonings). Drop by A La Turca Kilim for antiques, Sivaslı İstanbul Yazmacısı for fabrics, and Hafız Mustafa 1864 (there are multiple around the city) for baklava. Stop at Der Liebling for fine jewellery with unique designs; Mae Zae for a curated collection of homewares, clothing and vintage rugs; or Alkimia for candles and aromatherapy oils.
Good to know You’ll need to dress modestly to visit the city’s religious sites. For women, packing your most stylish shawl to cover your hair and shoulders is a good shout. Men should wear long trousers, but if you forget to pack some, most mosques will hand out cloth skirts and scarves for free at the start of your visit.
Planning a weekend is Istanbul? Get a taste for the city’s food scene or see more of our Istanbul hotels