Lots of cities have had hipster invasions over recent decades — Lisbon captivates with its arts scene and bohemian neighbourhoods; Marseille combines urban charm with a multicultural edge; Athens has become a playground for young creatives — but Berlin can still be crowned the coolest of them all. Much has changed since the late Nineties, and the German capital’s lost some of its grit, but it more than makes up for it with its fabulous food, cosy bars and elegant boutique hotels. Follow our weekend guide to Berlin and you’ll discover its most captivating corners.
FRIDAY EVENING

Château Royal Berlin
To easily access the former East and West, you’ll want to stay in the Mitte neighbourhood, steps away from some of the city’s best cafés and shops. The Scandi-style Gorki Apartments offer a classic Berlin setup, where exposed brick walls are twinned with hand-carved designer tables. Or, if you’re looking for something more low-key glam, book yourself into the Château Royal. Cosmopolitan in the truest sense, the hotel’s interiors bring together original turn-of-the-century features with contemporary details, alongside lots of marble, herringbone parquet flooring and light-wood accents.
After check-in, if you’ve an urge to stretch your legs before dinner, seek out Mitte’s hidden courtyards. The streets around Auguststraße are well-known for their galleries, but you’ll also find vibrant street art and artist studios, as well as the Anne Frank Zentrum in the unassuming Haus Schwarzenberg courtyard; and others contain artist collectives and extraordinary installations. From there, take a 20-minute stroll, or 10-minute cab ride, over to Soho House Berlin to enjoy an Italian extravaganza for dinner at Cecconi’s — a Negroni sbagliato and the calamari fritti are a must. If you’re a Soho House member, visit the rooftop bar for a singular view of Alexanderplatz and the iconic TV tower. After dinner, it’s back to Château Royal’s bar, which gets going in the evening — carb-heavy snacks like grilled-cheese sandwiches and supplì cacio e pepe will help soak up any excess alcohol (so go ahead and order that second martini).
SATURDAY MORNING
Start your day artfully, by booking a guided tour at the Boros Collection. It’s the only way you’ll be able to view Karen and Christian Boros’ cutting-edge private collection, housed in a former WWII bunker turned into a gallery. The building’s history is almost as intriguing as the art within, having also served as a banana warehouse and techno club. Afterwards, head over to Kreuzberg to enjoy the sights and sounds of the Markthalle Neun. The original market hall, renovated in 2011, now houses many full-time vendors, a weekly farmers’ market and a street-food night. Grab a coffee at Kaffee Neun and fill your belly with snacks and samples. Then stop by Werner’s Kräutergarten to buy some tea to take home; the owner is a wizard regarding herbs and their healing potential.
SATURDAY AFTERNOON

C/O
From Kreuzberg, take the U1 to Charlottenburg’s Ku’Damm for a retail adventure on Berlin’s Bond Street, where you’ll find the Van Nord concept store and KaDeWe, a renowned luxury department store, famous for its high-end fashion and gourmet food hall. For culture, visit C/O, an acclaimed photography gallery showcasing exhibitions from both world-class and emerging creatives. Located in a historic building, it’s a vibrant space where contemporary photography, visual art and critical cultural dialogues intersect, making it a cornerstone of Berlin’s art scene.
SATURDAY EVENING
For dinner, book a table at ShooLoongKan, which brings the authentic taste of the Sichuan hot pot to the city. It offers an immersive dining experience with rich, spicy broths and a sauce bar where you can create your own dipping condiments. If you can’t get a table there, grab a cab to nearby Kantstraße, the epicentre of the city’s Asian scene. Or for a more upscale meal, reserve a table at The Casual, the restaurant in SO Das Stue hotel, where Mediterranean-inspired dishes, such as wild-herb salad with raspberry dressing or sea bream with pepperonata, highlight fresh, seasonal ingredients.
End your evening at Bar Zentral, a cocktail bar located beneath the subway tracks around the corner from the C/O gallery. You’ll have to ring the door to gain entrance but don’t let that put you off: it’s just to ensure there’s space for everyone (it’s a no-standing bar).
SUNDAY MORNING
Enjoy brunch at Geist im Glas, whose buttermilk pancakes and huevos rancheros are widely regarded as the best in the city and recently started serving breakfast sandwiches. Learn more about Berlin’s history in Neukölln, where there are several options for guided tours that will walk you through the past. One of the city’s most interesting districts, Neukölln is known for its eclectic art spaces, diverse culinary scene, and the multicultural community that fuels its creative expression and nightlife.
SUNDAY AFTERNOON
A classic Sunday activity in Berlin is a visit to a flea market. There are several to choose from, located all across the city, but the standout is the Nowkölln market, which takes place every two weeks (with a break between December and March, so be sure to check its website for details). Otherwise, stroll the Großer Antikmarkt am Ostbahnhof, where you can shop for antiques every Sunday. Make sure to grab a memento of your Berlin trip in the iconic black-and-white photo booths located all over town.
SUNDAY EVENING

Le Balto
Wind up your weekend in Berlin at Le Balto, a natural wine bar with an impressive mural above its main room. Afterwards, head around the corner for another classic Berlin experience: the ‘teckno baguette’ at Gel Gör is the juiciest sandwich in the city. Fried slices of halloumi are layered on fresh-off-the-grill kofte and finished with a bunch of fresh herbs and a dusting of sumac. Wash it all down with an ayran, a cold, savoury yoghurt drink popular in Turkey.
Another Sunday hotspot here is Edelweiß Café. Hidden amid the greenery of Görlitzer Park, it feels like a hidden retreat; quiet and unassuming by day but livelier by night, hosting spirited parties and live music in its intimate spaces and secluded garden. If you’re interested in Berlin’s techno scene, check out Sisyphos in Rummelsburg, where the party usually continues well into Monday.
NEED TO KNOW
Transport The FEX train takes 35 minutes from Berlin Brandenburg airport directly to the city centre and costs 4,40 Euro. Download the BVG app before you land to purchase tickets on your phone.
When to go Berlin is captivating in every season, and while summer draws the crowds, winter holds its own magic, especially if you want to experience one of the city’s famous Christmas markets.
What to buy Harry Lehmann’s fragrance store in Charlottenburg, a nearly century-old Berlin icon, blends tradition with a modern touch. Offering over 70 one-of-a-kind scents, including classics like ‘Eau de Berlin’ and new creations like ‘HL 22’, it’s a perfect place to find a personalised, memorable souvenir.
Handy hint Take out cash before you visit. Many places will take cards but often Berliner vendors prefer cash, and some will maintain a €5 or €10 minimum for card payment.
Liv Fleischhacker is a freelance writer based in Berlin whose work focuses on the city’s food, drinks and art.
All photography by Michaela Watkinson.