Ho, Vienna: Christmas markets in the Austrian capital

Culture

Ho, Vienna: Christmas markets in the Austrian capital

Kate Pettifer berry-picks the best festive spots for Christmas shopping in Vienna

Kate Pettifer

BY Kate Pettifer29 October 2024

Buddy the Elf is the epitome of a Christmas enthusiast, and if Buddy were a city, he might well be Vienna. It’s not just the fairy-lit wooden booths that pop up across the city from the start of November, nor its traditional coffee houses and quaintly cobbled Old Town that have a year-round whiff of gingerbread about them: there’s something innately cosy and cheering about Vienna at any time of year. It could be the horse-drawn-carriage rides, excess of places to sip hot chocolate, or wealth of upscale gift shops, but if you’re looking to get into the Christmas spirit, this Continental charmer has the festive city break for you. And our guide to the best Christmas markets in Vienna can help you tick off that seasonal shopping list with finesse.

SPITTELBERG CHRISTMAS MARKET: THE ECO ONE

Max Brown 7th District

Among the cobbled streets that lead off Burggasse in the Seventh District, you’ll find the 120 or so stalls of the Spittelberg Christmas Market. For 2024, the fair will focus on Earth-kind outlets, featuring organic and vegan food stalls, sustainable crafts and local design. It’s the only one of Vienna’s markets that’s set among storied lanes, making it a contender for ‘most atmospheric’.

When: From 16 November until 23 December 2024.

Where: Gutenberggasse, Spittelberggasse, Schrankgasse and Stiftgasse.

Stocking filler: An estate that supplied the 16th-century public hospital, a defeated stronghold in a 17th-century siege of the city and a 19th-century red-light district: Spittelberg has a colourful past. Discover it at the Neubau District Museum on Stiftgasse.

Stay: Max Brown 7th District is a convenient launchpad for exploring this lively neighbourhood and comes with an acclaimed Israeli restaurant for Levantine sharing plates and stellar cocktails.


 

MARIA-THERESIEN-PLATZ: THE IMPERIAL ONE

(c) MagMag GmbH

There’s a regal flavour to the setting of the Christmas Market on Maria-Theresien-Platz. Nothing to do with the humble huts snaking through the square, selling festive gifts, handicrafts, food and drink, and art — but more about the museums that serve as its backdrop. This scenic pop-up is between the Kunst Historiches Museum (KHM) and the Natural History Museum, with the Hofburg Palace across the way.

When: From 13 November until 23 December 2024.

Where: This market gets its name from the square on which it’s set — but the nearest U-Bahn for Maria-Theresien-Platz is Volkstheater, and if you want to take the tram, hop off at Ring/Volkstheater.

Stocking filler: As you’re in the Museums Quarter, it’d be rude not to investigate further. Dip into the (KHM) art museum’s Rembrandt exhibition or curated artefacts from shipwrecks. At the Natural History Museum, mosey around an impressive collection of gemstones, fossils and skeletons that was first shipped to the capital for Maria Theresa’s emperor husband, Franz I Stephan, around 250 years ago.

Stay: Beatnik beauty Altstadt Vienna sets the creative tone for your festive city break with rooms that are individually designed; art-adorned corridors, and a modish salon for drinks or afternoon tea. Plus it’s only a 10-minute walk from Maria-Theresien-Platz.


 

ART ADVENT: THE ARTY ONE

Altstadt Vienna

The roll call of artisans selling at Art Advent reads like a makers’ convention: silversmiths, wood-turners, glass-blowers and metal workers come together to peddle their traditionally crafted wares from rustic cabins in front of copper-domed, Baroque behemoth, St Charles’ Church, aka Karlskirche.

When: From 15 November until 23 December 2024.

Where: Stalls fan out from in front of the church, around the pond, and edge the walkways through Karlsplatz, which is a sizeable park rather than a square (as the name implies).

Stocking filler: Book ahead and line up tickets to hear Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons at Karlskirche (there are several online ticket agencies selling seats), beside the market, to bring an orchestral finale to your shopping trip. Or double up on seasonal retail with a direct tram from Karlsplatz to the Belvedere Palace, where — alongside Vienna’s primary collection of Klimt artworks in the Upper Belvedere — you’ll discover a parade of gift-toting stalls in front of the palace, attempting to compete with their elegant setting by sporting fancy curlicues of Christmas lights.

Stay: Overlooking Mariahilfer Strasse, Hotel Motto is at the heart of Vienna’s pedestrianised shopping district and your perfect partner if gift buying is top priority for your Austrian city break. Its grid-worthy bakery, Motto Brot, is a welcome addition, too, set to fuel your retail forays with glazed pastries, pillowy buns and pretty cakes.


 

VIENNESE DREAM CHRISTMAS MARKET: THE WINTER WONDERLAND ONE

© Stadt Wien Marketing, Johannes Wiedl

If you like your festive shopping with a side of theme-park-worthy jollity, the Viennese Dream Christmas Market is the one for you. Over its 50-year run, it has evolved to feature a Ferris-wheel and ice rink, and — in addition to its traditional centrepiece conifer — a ruby-glowing heart tree. As such, it’s the city’s most commercial set-up, but is still a rich source of baubles, original gifts, Viennese sweet treats and steaming cups of glühwein that conjures a cheery festive atmosphere right across Rathauspark.

When: From 16 November until 26 December 2024.

Where: The village is set up in front of City Hall, extends into Rathauspark, and is informally referred to as the Rathausplatz Christmas Market.

Stocking filler: Vienna has a handful of permanent festive shops (yes, even in July), but few are as tasteful as the trove of decorative glass trinkets that is Edelglas: check out its Vienna store on Dorotheergasse. And to lean in to the Bing Crosby vibes still further, take a horse-drawn-carriage ride around the Innere Stadt’s cobbled centre — the carriage rank is just beside the Rosewood Vienna hotel.

Stay: Rosewood’s Viennese outpost puts you in the heart of the Old Town, but it’s not just covetable co-ords that’ll draw you to Rosewood Vienna. Neue Hoheit, its rooftop restaurant and bar, has taken the city by storm for its polished Austrian plates, fine wines and cocktails. Storied rooms and suites are dressed with the hotel group’s trademark attention to detail. And the hotel’s art collection is gallery-like, from the tea room adorned with hand-painted murals to the framed postcard collection of one of the building’s original owners.


 

ALTWIENER CHRISTKINDLMARKT: THE OLD-SCHOOL ONE

Grand Ferdinand

Also in the Innere Stadt, the Altwiener Christkindlmarkt sets up a clutch of stands on a fountain-studded, cobbled square that’s lined by elegant Baroque townhouses. Even if you’ve had your fill of gingerbread and jewellery, the Altwiener’s family-friendly calendar of live music, children’s puppet shows and craft demonstrations brings a free-to-all festive buzz.

When: From 17 November until 23 December 2024.

Where: The cobbled setting for the Altwiener is on Freyung in the heart of Vienna’s Old Town, overlooked by the buttercup yellow Catholic church, Schottenkirche.

Stocking filler: Café Central is en route to Freyung, so book a table ahead online (to beat the queue) and waltz in for delicious pâtisserie and Wiener melange coffees.

Stay: A welcome foil to Vienna’s traditional charms, Grand Ferdinand (on the Schubertring) brings 21st-century frills to proceedings with a rooftop pool, designer interiors and high-spec suites with covetable bath tubs. Its appeal is bolstered by a choice of restaurants and bars, including a cocktail spot up on the roof and wine-bar-like conviviality at street-facing Gulasch & Söhne.


You can unwrap more holiday shopping spots with our guide to the Coolest Christmas Markets in Europe, and dose up on festive inspiration with our pick of Continental Christmas city breaks. To walk around the Austrian capital at any time of year, follow our weekend guide to Vienna