Luxury dog-friendly hotels in Marseille, France

The rough-around-the-edges rebel of France’s glamorous south coast, Marseille has undergone a lace-straitening makeover of late – but it’s far from a fully reformed rogue. Once-waning La Joliette wears a well-cultured coat of trendy galleries over its downtrodden-docks DNA; globe-spanning music spills out of bohemian bars in Cours Julien; and the golden-crowned Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica surveys the city from its verdant hilltop throne. Plenty of quieter quarters hide amid the hubbub: snake your way up Le Panier’s storied streets, stroll the Haussmannian-chic Cinq-Avenues, then break for bouillabaisse in an old-world fishing village preserved in the boisterous belly of the city.