Worth getting out of bed for
Make the most of the hotel’s bicycles by taking a ride around the local area to see how the real Lao live, away from the gentrified centre of Luang Prabang. Then traverse the seasonal bamboo bridge to come out at the north-eastern tip of the historic temple district. Weave your way through a few wats to earn merit or at least earn the right to a delicious pastry or home-made ice-cream at one of the nearby cafés. Return via the motorbike bridge and swing back to Rive Droite. Two sides of the river, two ways of life. Or try a romantic picnic, Apsara style. Cruise by boat up the Mekong River to an abandoned wat swathed in history and atmosphere. Your private butler will serve up an elegant lunch of east meets west delights, best enjoyed with bubbles.
Local restaurants
Directly across the river on Kingkitsarath Road, the Apsara (+856 (0)71 254 670; www.theapsara.com) is a delightful stop for dinner. Try the lemongrass and coriander fishcakes. Yen Sabai Lao is a no-frills Laotian restaurant within walking distance of the hotel that is considered a must by expats in the know and with a nose for aromas. Just ask the concierge for directions.
Local bars
Want a decent glass of red in a nice spot? Pack Luck Wine Bar (+856 71 254 839; Sisavangvong Road) has a sassy selection of drops from around the world and is a favourite watering-hole for expats.
Local cafés
When you're yearning for French patisserie and good coffee, head to Le Café Ban Vat Sene (+856 71 252 482; Sakkarine Road), one of the city’s first Western-style establishments. Take a table on the footpath and watch Luang Prabang go by.
Diary
April Lao New Year, or Pi Mai, is celebrated for three days across the country, but in Luang Prabang the festivities can stretch for a week. Colourful street parades, including one that involves a sacred gold Buddha followed by monks holding black parasols, take place throughout. August Two festivals honouring the dead – Bun Salak and Bun Kao Pradab – occur concurrently this month. The highlight for visitors is the Nagas boat races on the Mekong. October Awk Phansao heralds the end of the rainy season and the monks, who’ve been confined to a temple throughout, leave their retreat and are presented with robes, alms bowls and other necessities. At the same time, the river comes alive with the Bun Nam boat races.
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Smith extra at The Apsara Rive Droite
Dinner for two at the hotel's restaurant, excluding drinks
