Mr & Mrs Smith

Begin by making the most of the hotel; have a dip in the secluded pool, dry off on one of the loungers and ramble through the olive groves. Visit the hotel’s museum and eye up the artifacts. Make an appearance at one of the regular wood-turning and pottery demonstrations, and ask the concierge to book you on some guided excursions. The 14th-century Eastern Orthodox monastery of Arkadi is 4km from the hotel and is rich in history – used as a headquarters in the 19th century by Cretan rebels evading the Turks. The surrounding villages have a stash of Byzantine relics. Sandy beaches are just 10 minutes away by car – choose from Stavromenos and Geropotamos. Both come with sun beds, parasols and a taverna or two. Visit Rethymnon and its Venetian fortress, 18km away. The gardens, mosques, castle and loggia are all impressive. Chania, on Crete’s north shore (an hour’s drive from Rethymnon) is worth a visit for its glorious Venetian architecture, backdrop of the White Mountains and seductive sandy beaches. At least one Bounty advert was filmed at Via beach, in Agios Nikolaos – stake out a spot on the stretch of sand and make your own movie.

Because of the hotel’s secluded setting, local hotspots are a drive away (but not a long one). It’s worth visiting the taverns at Amnatos, Kyrianna, Loutro or Stavromenos, all 8km from the hotel. Try the creative cuisine at Avli (+30 28310 26213) at 22 Xanthoudidou and Radamanthios in Rethymnon’s old town. The gourmet restaurant and wine bar serves up enticing nibbles and mains, including fresh mushrooms with smoked pork and creamy butter, lamb with traditional rice and fig pie with vanilla ice cream. Castelvecchio (+30 28310 55163) is a popular family run taverna next to a Venetian fortress at 29 Himaras. Try the kleftico cooked with love by the owner’s father. Chania is an hour and a half away, but it has some great options, including Tamam (+30 28210 96080) is housed in an old Turkish bath house at 49 Zambeliou, by the old harbour. Culinary offerings are a fusion of Middle Eastern and Greek food. Close by at 8 Platia Katehaki is Karnagio (+30 28210 53366), a traditional restaurant with a scenic harbour-side location. Work up an appetite for the grilled meat platters, boureki (zucchini and sheep’s cheese pie) and generous peasant-style salads, heaped with feta.