Wilmina

Worth getting out of bed for

Philosopher Immanuel Kant’s doctrine of ‘transcendental idealism’ boils down to the belief that we can only know things through experience. So it’s only fitting that while you’re staying on the street named after him (Kantstrasse in the upscale Charlottenburg district), that you get out and do things. Say, head around the corner to cult bookshop Bücherbogen, or maybe laze amid the leafy, lake-y serenity of Lietzenseepark, which has its own beer garden. Head east and you’ll hit the vast zoo and aquarium, head north and Charlottenburg Palace, which, with its many windows, expansive gardens and Rococo swagger, cuts a dashing figure; then the Deutsche Oper opera house shows Berlin’s brilliant old-new contrast with a concrete block of a building. For classic artworks, the Scharf-Gerstenberg Collection is extensive, and for more modern works, there’s Kontor, Galerie Mutare, Stallman, C/O Berlin, the Museum of Photography, and very many more. And, Wilmina itself, with its white walls and fascinating bones makes an excellent exhibition space – indeed, the hotel often hosts cool creative pop-ups and exhibitions (previously working with Amtsalon and Kicken Berlin gallery). To reach the capital’s postcard attractions (the Brandenburg Gate, Alexanderplatz, Checkpoint Charlie, the Reichstag, street-art coated sections of the Berlin Wall, the DDR Museum…), you can take a leisurely hour-long stroll through the Tiergarten, or hop in a cab for 30 minutes. And, you can easily feel like you’ve left the city by exploring the walks, scenic look-outs, historic hunting lodges and sombre memorials of Grunewald Forest beyond the city.  

Local restaurants

Kanstrasse highlights the city as a melting pot, with its rep for top Asian cuisine. Especially at Madame Ngo’s, where the pot in question is filled with unctuous, warming phở that hits every taste point on the way down. They also do full-to-bursting bánh mìs (the Madame Ngo is a pork-y, pâté-slathered beast) and tropical salads. Ryotei 893 serves especially decadent sushi, with morsels of sake, unagi and foie gras; tenderloin tartare with caviar and crème fraîche; and sashimi taquitos with a squirt of truffle mayonnaise. And Lon Men’s Noodle House does slurpable dishes that are quick, fast and filthy in the best possible way – very well udon (sorry). You might be surprised what you find between your buns at the Butcher, where toppings run to babaganoush, tahini, hollandaise… They also have veggie picks, and a meaty cocktail list. And, Funky Fisch might have a divisive name, but its menu is unimpeachable, with huge bowls of creamy prawn tagliatelle, rich bouillabaisse, and a laden seafood bar. 

Local cafés

And, yet another favourite of Bowie and Iggy Pop was Schwarzes Café; while it’s no longer a 24-hour hangout (although barkeeps are fairly loose with closing time), it’s still as cool and artsy as it ever was – just follow the neon parrot sign. 

Local bars

Paris Bar is a legend around these parts; allegedly opened by a French soldier who was missing his homeland’s cuisine, it became the centre for bohemian tomfoolery from 1962 onwards. Iggy Pop drunkenly rolled around outside, David Bowie liked the steak frites, artist Martin Kippenberger paid his bill with paintings: it’s a place that sings with stories. And, we admit we’re partial to a snifter of Berlin’s sleaze – Galander Charlottenburg is set in a former brothel, but it’s gone from slutty to sleek, now hung with chandeliers and staff wear black-and-white tailoring – but there’s still plenty of alcohol-sloshed sauce to be had.