Villa Nai 3.3

I’m sitting in the middle of an Impressionist painting at Villa Nai 3.3. From the sofa on my private terrace, my eyes peer through the grey-green olive leaves down to the sea and beyond to the islands, bright sky above, the scene washed in every shade of blue. But the most noticeable thing is the silence. There is no wind, the soft sunshine is gently warming, but I can hear nothing. An occasional bee inspects the lavender, as does a white butterfly, and a small bird flits quietly past an olive tree. A distant church bell tolls the hour; otherwise, it’s perfectly still.  

The day before, Mr Smith and I were taken on a sailing trip. There are 150 islands in this paradise just off Zadar: we are based on Dugi Otok (Long Island), home to fishermen and olive farmers. Part of this chain of islands is the protected Kornati National Park, where no fishing is allowed. We are driven to Sali, the main village, where our stylish boat is waiting for us. It’s a glorious day and the sea is calm. For two hours, we travel around the islands, our avuncular skipper, Tom, pointing out items of interest: steep karst cliffs, caves where lobsters gather, a ruined Roman look-out point, a manned lighthouse… Bobbing along to the rhythm of the sea, my mind empties and I quietly appreciate the stark, arresting beauty of the place, which has been practically untouched for centuries. We arrive at a small harbour, Tom ties up the boat, and Mr Smith and I enjoy a coffee and a homemade apricot tart at a simple harbourside café before we resume our adventure. 

Arriving at the hotel the next day, Mr Smith and I (regular travellers) gasp when we see our room. There's a four-poster bed, tasteful Italian designer furniture, a humongous bathroom with twin sinks, an adjustable mirror and covetable Diptyque products. In the lounge area is a statement Blofeld-worthy chair (alas, minus the fluffy white cat) — Villa Nai 3.3 does indeed feel like the sort of place Mr Bond would not feel out of place in. From our spacious stone terrace, we can admire the water, and there's a table with chairs for enjoying some room service on.  

The staff here are genuinely helpful and relaxed, soon referring to us by name, helping Mr Smith to feel as though he is in a wealthy relative’s private home, rather than a hotel.  

On an island where water is precious, sustainability is a natural step, rather than an afterthought. Ingredients are from the hotels's own organic farm, its chickens, and local fishermen. The olive mill is behind reception, and since it was harvesting season — a thousand trees, some hundreds of years old — I sampled the golden nectar each day after picking. Food here is peerless: unpretentious, interesting, thoughtful. Too numerous to list all the hits, but we especially enjoyed the homemade bread served with a selection of olive oil, beetroot carpaccio with rosemary dust and tarragon sorbet, the grilled fish of the day, and the lemon parfait with meringue leaves. The wine list is comprehensive too; Mr Smith was particularly impressed with the red Croatian offerings, many of which are not available elsewhere. Just-caught fish is cooked on a stone barbecue grill (fed with olive wood, naturally), basted with olive oil, then wheeled to your table on a large silver salver on top of a handsome trolley to be prepared tableside for a bit of theatre.  

Naturally, the spa offers olive-oil treatments. I adored the signature massage, which encompassed face and body, and I truly felt my skin was glowing afterwards (the four hours we spent on the boat in the fresh air the previous day might have helped too). 

On one day of our stay, we relax with our novels on shaded loungers by the outdoor seawater pool, then wander down to the private jetty for a languid swim in the clear water that is still warm in October. On another day, strapping on our walking boots, we are taken by hotel car to Kornati and visit the education centre that is much more interesting than it sounds, with animated information about the ice age, and the unique sea life and fauna that inhabit these islands. Further on from here, surrounded by quiet pine forests, is the enclosed salt lake, with a hike around it taking an hour or so. We head up through the fragrant pine trees to the clifftops, our exertion rewarded by sweeping views of the sea below and the cliffs we were sailing along a few days before. 

Back ‘home’ at Villa Nai 3.3, a fellow guest has been on the hotel's sea-fishing expedition and caught a large John Dory; he’s discussing with the chef how he would like it cooked. Another couple have been snorkelling and found the lobsters Tom told us about. Tourism here is locals sharing their homeland. This is a secret, special place. It’s been magically bottled and, like their award-winning olive oil, is available for a lucky few.