Vila Muhr

On our first night in Slovenia, a local had some advice for us: ‘Tourists go to Lake Bled, but Slovenians go to Lake Bohinj.' And as soon as we arrived at this spectacular body of water, two hours’ drive from the capital Ljubljana, we could see why. Bordered by wildflower-filled meadows and forests, and overlooked by the snow-topped Julian Alps, Lake Bohinj is Slovenia at its most dramatic and beautiful. 

And if you’re searching for an indulgent place to stay on its shoreline, you couldn’t do much better than Vila Muhr, which is where Mr Smith and I spent the first two nights of our walking holiday in early June. 

Built in 1902, Vila Muhr was originally an aristocratic hunting lodge, before becoming a retreat for the Yugoslav royal family (other regal visitors during this time included Prince George, Duke of Kent). Last year, it relaunched as the suite-only off-shoot of Hotel Bohinj next-door (which boasts 62 compact but stylishly contemporary rooms that are a bit more affordable — I recommend the Superior Suite for an unparallelled mountain view). 

The lakeside village Vila Muhr sits in is a bustling hub with a shop, a few restaurants and one pretty church. It’s a brilliant jumping-off point for mountain hikes, meadow strolls, biking, swimming and rock-climbing, or simply lazing on one of the many little shingle beaches that line the lake’s crystal-clear waters. 

There are just four suites at Vila Muhr. We stayed in the Princess Olga junior suite, which had moody lighting, furry throws and wood-cladding, giving it the feel of an ultra-luxe chalet. There was a dining table and a fire, too. I could see this cosy hideaway being particularly atmospheric in the snow. The bathroom was big and stocked with Aesop products. The bed was huge and comfortable. And there was also a wraparound balcony that looked out over the hotel’s lawn to the lake and mountains on one side. 

They take food very seriously at Vila Muhr and especially breakfast, so make time for this multi-course extravaganza, which showcases all sorts of local produce and traditional Slovenian fare. We started with a tasting of five different honeys — Slovenians are big beekeepers — with a selection of freshly baked breads, followed by homemade jams, fresh juices, a fruit plate, homemade granola, yoghurt, local cured meats and cheeses. We were also given tasters of Slovenian cream cheeses, smoked trout, chicken pâté and buckwheat spread. (Needless to say, after the first morning, you can request an edit of this huge spread.) 

In the evening, we sampled exquisite little canapés by Chef Davor Arnautovic: a delicate ‘taco’ stuffed with mountain herbs; a blini with cream cheese and alpine caviar; and a playful ‘twig’, made of a mushroom tuile served on a bed of edible flowers. Nearby there were also some fun, more informal places to eat including an alfresco burger-and-beer joint by the lake, which really hit the spot after a long hike up to Mount Vogel. 

Vila Muhr has an impressive wine cellar, featuring smart names from around the world, plus a big selection of Slovenian wines, which I explored during a fascinating two-hour tasting with the sommelier Nejc Jakopic. The bar also mixes a decent martini, using local gin made with alpine botanicals — we sipped some on the lawn, watching the sun go down over the mountains (my only gripe was the piped music). 

The spa is a short walk away in neighbouring Hotel Bohinj, but it can be reached very easily via a private tunnel. It’s small but smart, with a generous sauna, a steam room, cold showers, ice and a relaxation room with a salt wall. There was also an outdoor plunge pool with a gorgeous view of the mountainous skyline. Booking is recommended, which sounded like a faff but there was actually no problem getting the slot I wanted and it ensured there was plenty of space for everyone.  

Mr Smith and I left Vila Muhr rested, restored and — believe it or not, after all that breakfast — hungry for more of Slovenia.