Torel Saboaria

'Did you organise this?!' I asked Mr Smith at Torel Saboaria, feeling surprised but very happy. 'Err, no,' he replied, clearly feeling sheepish and perhaps a tad guilty. 'This' was a birthday cake. Chocolate. Rich. And with a candle for a wish. Which had come too late for this birthday, but next time I know what to wish for — that someone would do all the travel planning for me. Mr Smith hadn’t forgotten, but he hadn’t had to organise anything either, since I’d planned the trip.

So it’s a good job I’d picked Torel Saboaria when organising a little jaunt away to Porto to celebrate my big day. Not only is Porto one of my favourite cities, but I think Torel Saboaria might now be up there as one of my favourite hotels there, and one of my current best travel secrets. You see, you wouldn’t even know the hotel was there. Mr Smith and I had walked past it on a previous trip and thought it was a soap shop. We weren’t completely wrong — a tiny soap boutique does sit at the front of the hotel, a nod to its previous life as a soap factory. But behind it, the previously industrial space has been beautifully reimagined, with just 28 rooms and suites for an intimate feel. All are stylishly finished in soothing neutral shades, layers of exposed stone and tactile terracotta, wood and basketwork, and, surprisingly for a hotel of its size, kitted out with a kitchenette. 

There’s even space for a garden, outdoor pool, Jacuzzi and spa, a rarity at any city-centre hotel. There’s also a restaurant, Luffa, which we didn’t eat in as we were keen to explore Porto's food scene, but the morning breakfasts were a delicious way to start the day before we headed out sightseeing. There’s no sad breakfast buffet here — instead, the team whip up a small à la carte feast of sourdough toast and toppings, yoghurt and homemade granola, freshly squeezed juices, and a pastel de nata on the menu to ensure you get your daily intake.

The hotel is located in Bolhão, which felt like a more local part of town, just by Mercado do Bolhão. The market became our regular spot for picking up fresh fruits (and yes, more pastéis de nata). It's close enough to the bars and restaurants of Cedofeita, handy for celebrating my birthday dinner. We’d returned from a great spot called Mito (following drinks at natural-wine bar Funq) when the team surprised me, and I’m pretty sure Mr Smith too, with the birthday cake. I hadn’t mentioned it, so they must’ve thoughtfully noted it when we were checking in. The service was always on point. The team were full of great tips for what to see and do, pointing us in the right direction of the Linha 1 tram stop (and helpfully advising us take cash). This vintage tram rattles along the Douro River to Foz and its beaches, which our three-year-old Mini Smith loved.

Other highlights included the Palácio de Cristal Gardens, a beautiful park famed for its roaming peacocks (also a big hit with Mini Smith), and the Church of São Francisco, which Mini Smith slept through. Probably for the best. Every time we returned from another packed day, the team was there, sometimes rushing to open the door to greet us and ask us how we were, like a real welcome home. We were so busy, the one thing we didn’t get time to use was the spa. Mr Smith, if you’re reading this, I didn’t wish for it as I blew out the birthday candle, but you know what to organise next time.