Thotalagala

Nestled at the top of the lush green landscape and overlooking the plantation fields beyond Haputale you’ll find Thotalagala: a converted plantation house steeped in history.

It may have the warm nostalgic glow of past colonialists, but it’s not shy of modern conveniences: Wi-fi, infinity pool and a completely laid-back sensibility that makes us feel immediately relaxed.

Arriving on a wet Monday afternoon, Mr Smith and I are warmly welcomed and shown around the 100-year-old residence and its grounds. Even in bad weather, the views of Lipton’s Seat enveloped in the distant mist are stunning. 

We’re lead to the rather kitsch though cosy-as-you-like cigar room and served cinnamon hot chocolates, homemade jackfruit-bread rolls and Ceylon tea-infused cookies. Over our treats we hear a little of the bungalow’s backstory and of the local sightseeing spots and available activities, should we wish to venture out.

Each room is named after a British colonial-era heavyweight; from the Sam Popham suite to the George Pilkington. Our room, the Major Rogers suite is, like all others, furnished traditionally with grand, period details like wall-mounted Sambar deer horns, a mahogany four-poster bed, glinting chandeliers and a claw footed bathtub.

On meeting our masterful chef we discuss our plans for dinner that evening. We settle on a Sri Lankan feast fit for Major Rogers himself: a pleasantly spicy chicken curry, dahl, seer curry, chilli, and coconut sambal, coconut milk, string hoppers, pittu, and roti. It’s beautiful. 

We sit around the shared dining table and chat to the other guests, exchanging tips and stories while the wine (from a decent list, it must be said) flows freely.

The staff make our dawn start the next morning is as comfortable as 5am can be. Responding to a gentle knock on our door, we’re met with a fresh coffee, and a breakfast picnic hamper loaded with fruit, mini pastries, fruit juice, and sandwiches. The misty route up to Horton Plains National Park can be somewhat hairy with the sheer drops down, but it ensures we’re awake.

The park is majestic, with wildlife in abundance. Its rocky pathways and grassy plains are home to sambar, leopards, horned lizards, squirrels and a host of bird life. But the true reason many people come here are for the spectacular views at the World’s End where, from a 1,200-metre-high cliff, you can breathe in incredible views of the cloud forest plains below and the lakes of Udawalawe National Park beyond.

Not that you can’t be adventurous at Thotalagala – if you want to take a 45-minute walk to explore their grounds, the staff happily show you the way; resident dog Leila might even escort you, tail wagging all the way. It’s a charming stroll through the surrounding hills, filled with tea bushes used by the local factories.

For another local excursion you can visit the peak of Lipton’s Seat – supposedly where Lipton sat each morning to overlook his plantation; now commemorated with a statue where you can sit right next to him. After our meeting with Mr L, we head down a winding road to the Dambatenne tea factory for a fascinating tour and a tasting. Highly recommended.

Staff here strike that amazing balance of being attentive without ever overdoing it. They’re always at hand and happy to help to make your time at Thotalagala worry-less, but also your time in Sri Lanka as good as it can be – whether it be giving tips about your next stop, translating for your driver over the phone (often needed!) or making menu suggestions. At one point the manager tells us it should ‘feel like this is your home’ and we quickly slip into that thinking as they work around our routine with the utmost hospitality. 

Special mention must go to the chef. His team seem genuinely thrilled to cook whatever your heart desires, and they do it superbly. We have perfectly grilled seer fish with vegetables and a luxurious butter sauce, ending with a proper creme brûlée (the western dishes are just as good as the Sri Lankan ones).

The devil as they say, is also in the details. Here, the details are consistently spot-on. From the little pot of Ayurvedic nightcream on the pillow to the jars of handmade plantain crisps and sugared cashews laid out in our room for midnight munchies. We even get chocolates on our last night. It’s a masterclass in giving you what you didn’t even know you’d want.

Thotalagala also provide their own recipe of mosquito repellant, Spice Island shampoos and conditioners, bath salts, and a selection of books and magazines for you to read in the lounges. There’s even a selection of board games in the cigar room. Mr Smith and I take advantage of Scrabble in front of the living room’s roaring fire before bed.

On our last morning we take advantage of the (unheated) infinity pool for a dip, enjoying the views before the clouds roll in. It’s both bracing and relaxing, and works up a good appetite for our leisurely breakfast. Sat on the lawn, we enjoy a spread of local fruits and juice with tea, coffee, pastries, toast, jams, granolas and yoghurt. And eggs benedict because, well, we’re on holiday.

As we leave to catch a train at Haputale for the ride to Ella (a two-hour route actually recommended by one of the couples at this hotel; well worth it for the spectacular views) we can’t help feel as if our stay has been far too short. We find ourselves immediately planning a return visit as we compare notes on our favourite bits while the train rattles away down the tracks. No doubt when we do return the chef will remember how we like our eggs, and the management will remember what we’ve yet to explore…