The Zetter Clerkenwell

Aah, the Zetter hotel in Clerkenwell. Step into its magical tucked-away corner, close to Farringdon, and you’ll find yourself ever so slightly back in time. This Georgian townhouse, converted into a discreet hideaway, sits on cobbled St John Square and is a delightful mish-mash of grandeur, quirkiness and tales of old. Some true, some not…for example, that of Great Aunt Wilhelmina, a fictional former owner whose ‘portrait’ hangs in the bar, who led a rather fabulous life if her paper (and trinket) trail is to be believed. Well, if you’re going to stay in a fictional character’s ‘house’, it may as well be a dun-roaming flâneur with a saucy side, a hefty fortune and some healthy eccentricities.

The place evokes a certain type of Englishness. Or perhaps many certain types. From stripes that wouldn’t be out of place on a Paul Smith suit, bag or umbrella, to handpainted wallpaper, brocante and antique brass lamps, replica ships, animal illustrations, heavy crimson curtains and reclaimed stools. Each piece might not ‘match’ but certainly comes together and creates a distinct whole.

My 10-year-old and I arrived mid-afternoon over Christmas, just as the sun was going down and the evening glow of street and fairy-lights were beginning to twinkle. Even before we stepped in, we felt like we were starring in our own classic advent calendar. But a handy modern convenience has to be noted: I could park right outside; in fact there were loads of spaces – a relief, as I’d fretted all the way to London about finding a suitable spot close by.

On entering, we got such a warm cosy feeling, thanks to the sink-into velvet sofas, welcoming bar and brilliantly orchestrated muddle of period furniture (the work of noted designer Russell Sage), plus Christmas decorations hung throughout. A host beckoned us in, adding to the Hallmark-movie, ‘come and warm your cockles’ feel.

My daughter couldn’t wait to try out each armchair to see which corner to sit in for her order of apple juice and snacks. We sat for a while, soaking in the atmosphere, before checking into our suite, which we’d been generously upgraded to. The apartment-sized space was everything we’d hoped for and more. Situated on the first floor, overlooking the square, it had not one, but two seating areas – one a sitting room with a large TV, the other a dining area (my daughter wished she’d brought her roller-skates); a huge bed with textured quilts and cushions, hot-water bottles (should we need them) and another TV for snuggly Christmas-movie bingeing. And – a gorgeous touch – the room had its own star-topped tree too. The space was fantastic, more than big enough for four guests. And the bathroom was a heavenly sight after we’d been walking out in the cold, with its underfloor heating, rolltop bath tub and deliciously scented White Company treats. 

When we could prise ourselves away from our room, the concierge could not have been kinder or more welcoming – the hotel’s team were seasonally appropriate angels from start to finish. Over the two nights we stayed, we embraced all London had to offer: trips to museums, ice-skating at Somerset House, a film at the Barbican and lots of whizzing around in cabs to see the Christmas lights. The city’s intoxicating essence has been distilled into the Zetter, making it a brilliant Mary Poppins meets Lulu Guinness meets Britpop sort of experience. We were enchanted by the warmth in its hospitality and the love that’s clearly gone into making this a feels-like-home base for exploring. 

Some dos and don’ts: do indulge in room service, which was super speedy; don’t forget your toothbrush and do ask for a room with a bath tub (in my opinion, our room had the best in London); do get the concierge to organise taxis and advise on timings – they were spot on; don’t forget to nose around (stairwells are hung with vintage high-society newspapers and playbills); and do explore all Clerkenwell has to offer on foot, from the St John Restaurant to the International Magic Shop. The British Museum is just a 30-minute stroll away and – if you’re planning to pop the question – Hatton Garden Diamond District is close by too. Spitalfields Market is easily reached, and you should experience the joy of cruising through elegant Bloomsbury on the upper deck of a red bus. And, my top tip is: if you're a Blue Badge holder, parking here (and in many parts of London) is free. The hotel has handy lifts too, so its sumptuousness can be enjoyed with ease.

All in all, we had a magical Christmas break at this London treasure, which may offer a blast in the past, but also manages to be as cool as can be.