The Venice Venice Hotel

Worth getting out of bed for

The Venice Venice Hotel has somehow found itself in the right place in all of the right times (from the Byzantine era through to today) – and that place is opposite the Rialto Market, along the Grand Canal. This means you can be gaily selfie-ing away on the Rialto Bridge in less than five minutes, or seamlessly slipping into a gondola and admiring the reliquaries in St Mark’s Basilica before bellinis at Florians in 10 minutes. While at St Mark’s piazza, climb the Campanile for city-spanning views, drop in at doge-den Palazzo Ducale (passing over the Bridge of Sighs), admire the Torre dell'Orologio’s spectacular edifice, and parse the antiquities of Museo Correr. Day trip to Murano for glassware (and to try your hand at blowing) and Burano for a rainbow backdrop of merrily painted houses; then wend through tiny alleyways to seek out hip handicrafts at ateliers such as Antonia Miletto Gioielli (for bizarrely brilliant bijouterie), Gianni Basso Stampatore (for elegant letterpress stationery), or Declare (for bold modern leather pieces). Curiosities abound: bath tubs and boats full of books in the – sometimes flooded – Libreria Acqua Alta, cursed Ca’ Dario palace, Santa Maria e San Donato church’s ‘dragon’ bones, the lavishly dressed San Nicolò dei Mendicoli from Don’t Look Now… But, sleeping in Fluxus and Arte Povera-themed rooms, next to a genuine Joseph Beuys or Bruce Naumann will lead you down an aesthetically pleasing path through the city’s many many galleries. Find modern masterpieces at the Ca' Pesaro International Gallery, Fondazione Prada or the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (where the art-collecting heiress is also buried with her pets; seek out Bellinis, Tiepolos, Tintorettos and Titian’s luminous Assumption of the Virgin in grand churches and basilicas; and try to time your stay in line with the Biennale, when the halls of the Arsenale and Giardini park are installed with intriguing works.

Local restaurants

Venice’s distinct dining style evolved from its thriving spice trade and rich aquaculture of lagoon fish and seafood. The peckish, in particular, thrive here due to bacari with tempting counters of cicchetti. You’re unlikely to be far from a dinky snack at any point, but spots to seek out include All'Arco – whose baccalà mantecato (whipped salt cod) might be the creamiest in town – close to the Rialto Bridge, or Basegò, which throws in a few flavourful surprises among the classics, such as crostini with salmon and strawberry or prawn and mustard. Antiche Carampane is such an ‘in-the-know’ spot that its motto is ‘you don’t arrive here by chance’, so we’re loathe to share it, but duty bound, especially when there’s tagliatelle tossed in spider-crab sauce, fried lagoon shrimps with wasabi mayonnaise, and cuttlefish in an inky sauce with pillowy polenta at play. And continue your seafood odyssey in the fitting setting of Vecia Cavana, a restaurant in a renovated boathouse, where recipes have been revived from those used in the doge’s palace back in the day. L’Osteria di Santa Marina offers both traditional and less-so tasting menus – we urge you to walk on the wilder side and tuck into amberjack ceviche with almond milk and mango chutney or cold spaghetti with red prawns and pistachio. Or hit the à la carte for squid stuffed with tuna tartare and barbecue sauce or basil risotto with bonito flakes and lemon foam.

Local cafés

Cappuccino is a morning drink in Venice – throughout the rest of the day, unless otherwise specified, you’ll be given a shot of something teeth-jitteringly strong Italians seem to be able to down fast without having a heart attack (we jest, the coffee is yet another thing they excel at). Good to keep in mind as you navigate Venice’s strong café culture. Torrefazione Cannaregio has an inviting rustic interior and friendly staff who know their joe. Bean blends and single origins come from all over the world here (and you can buy them by the bag), and baristas are happy for fellow aficionados to grill them as they work at the antique roaster. For something sweet to accompany it, head to Pasticceria Rosa Salva for pistachio cream puffs, rum babàs and fruit tartlets.

Local bars

Clinking bellinis at Harry’s Bar (where the spritz was conceived) might be a bit of a cliché, but there’s still something magical about this 1930s joint. Then, once you’ve downed yours, move on to Il Mercante where drink inspiration strikes in surprising ways. Each cocktail nods to an element of Venetian history and is accompanied with a backstory – take La Fenice, named for the theatre which burnt down and was rebuilt three times, denoted by three smoky flavours: peat whisky, mezcal and black tea. Birreria Zanon is less polished – in fact, young locals love it for its dive-y feel – but you’re guaranteed a fun craft-beer-fuelled time.