The Shinmonzen

Worth getting out of bed for

A stroll along Shirakawa Street, in the scenic – and immensely popular – Gion district, will take you back in time to the Meiji era, with its artfully composed wooden machiya, cosy teahouses and inns, and bustling geikos and maikos (geishas and their apprentices) shuffling along between appointments. Here, the rabble of telephone wires that criss-cross Kyoto’s streets are hidden away, leaving just willow boughs overhead, and there’s a lower concentration of tourists than in Hanami-koji Street close by. And, crossing that is the hotel’s namesake street Shinmonzen Dori; less picturesque, but no less refined, it’s renowned for its antiques and artisans, where spaces such as the Ezoshi Gallery sell traditional ukiyo-e woodblock prints, which reflect the timeless scenes carrying on around you, R Kita (256 Shinmonzen) stocks vintage kimono and fine antique Imari tea sets, and Kawasaki Bijutsu offers intricately decorated folding screens. If you’re in over your head when it comes to cultural immersion (after all, the prefecture has more than 1,600 temples, a dizzying mix of modern and traditional, and a fine-tooth-comb approach is needed when it comes to authentic experiences), then turn to the Shinmonzen’s concierge. They can send you off on a private rickshaw tour from Tatsumi Bridge (after a quick photo session) to give you the lay of the land, set up a bespoke Zen and mindfulness meditation session at Ryosoku-in Temple in the grounds of the oldest Buddhist temple Kennin-ji (established in the 13th century), and set up a hosted tea ceremony in the restful confines of Kōrin-in Temple. Or you can choose to embark on a tea-house crawl through the city. It’s hard to whittle down the sacred landmarks of Japan’s spiritual heart, but Kiyomizu-dera which roosts among woods in the eastern hills, gleamingly gilded Kinkakuji to the north and the infinitely regressive gates of Fushimi Inari shrine will all be familiar with travel-porn enthusiasts. However, you may prefer to pay deference at the bunny-dedicated Okazaki shrine, or clock the unique faces of each of the 1,001 statues of Kannon (the Bhuddist god of mercy) at Sanjūsangen-dō. In spring, see the sakura burst into baby pinks in Maruyama Park – or take a 30-minute cab ride to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, where the dulcet sound of swaying stalks has been officially recognised by the government and offers plant-based Zen. Your pathway back to the modern world is through Kyoto’s museums and galleries, say the National Museum of Modern Art, or more niche spaces such as the Kodama Gallery whose works have much to say, or up-and-comer-supporting Maeda Hiromi. Or delve into Japan’s fantastical comic-book worlds at the International Manga Museum before swinging by Ichijo-dori street, where curious folk monsters known as yokai stand guard.

Local restaurants

The just-so nature of Japanese style extends to dining in Kyoto, where highly seasonal kaiseki menus see each discrete ingredient as an indispensable element – say, a sliver of sashimi, intricately carved vegetable or finishing-touch flower. It can be costly (Michelin stars are liberally scattered about here), but to have an array of tiny bowls and exquisitely crafted courses laid in front of you, try Soujiki Nakahigashi; the menu is chef’s choice and changes with whatever nature has provided that day, but vegetables and herbs gathered in the mountains come to the fore. Reservations are tough to get – especially if you want to chat to the chef – so book well in advance. Ogata, a restaurant with a simple counter and very slim number of covers is also famously impenetrable for those not in-the-know, but if you strike lucky, you’re in for some truly spectacular edible theatre here. Close to the bamboo forest, Lurra shows the Venn crossover between Japanese and Nordic cuisines (excellent fish, delicate botanicals, seasonal sway), with its Noma alumnus chef who ferments and wood fires elegant plates that have earnt this joint Michelin acclaim. And, Italian and Japanese dining might seem at odds – for one, cheese is somewhat scant in Kyoto – but Cenci deftly brokers a treaty between them, with its crab fettuccine, Hokkaido oyster risotto, mackerel with yuzu and a creamy chestnut ice-cream, plus a full-bodied wine list.

Local cafés

For eats on-the-go (although not as you're walking – it’s considered very bad manners), Nishiki Market has been peddling street food and snacks for hundreds of years. Pick up skewers loaded with octopus, offal, wagyu and more; mochi of all flavours; dumplings and tamagoyaki (loaded omelette-pizza hybrids). And, a visit to an ochaya (tea house) is about so much more than a brew, rather partaking in a ceremony that’s been refined since the 12th century. Gion is home to many, including the ultra-exclusive, invite-only Ichiriki Chaya; but you can have an equally authentic and captivating experience at spots such as Camellia or En.

Local bars

In Gion, El Tesoro has a fittingly vintage feel and hundreds of bottles of whisky glowing amber behind the bar. There’s plenty shipped in from Scottish distilleries, both indie and established, but with the knowledgeable barkeep at your service, it’s an excellent spot for an intro to Japan’s popular, clean and strong native whiskies. Bar Rocking Chair does indeed have a few swaying seats for punters to lull themselves in, and a cosy atmosphere with room for 30 at most, but it’s not quite as sedate a night as the name suggests. There’s no cocktail menu, just bartenders with vivid imaginations and a strong sense of omotenashi who’ll craft bespoke drinks from you after a chat about your likes and dislikes.