Kyoto, Japan

The Shinmonzen

Price per night from$1,217.78

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (JPY184,312.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Rule-breaking ryokan

Setting

Living-woodblock-print Gion

Much like the Japanese art of kintsugi, Gion-based stay the Shinmonzen is bound together with many golden strands: it was conceived by Tadao Ando, perhaps one of Japan’s greatest architects; the owner and art savant behind beloved Provençal retreat Villa La Coste has imbued it with warmth and character; Jean-Georges Vongerichten is helming the Franco-Kyotoite kitchen… It respectfully reiterates the ryokan model in its humbly aesthetic exterior, mindfully minimalist rooms, and the need-anticipating service philosophy of omotenashi. But it's also hung with Damien Hirst and Louise Bourgeois pieces, there are subtle European accents (including a caviar-heavy menu), and Kyoto’s new artisans get their due throughout. The sort of update only a gilded dream team can achieve when they break the mold to fix it.

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A bottle of the Shinmonzen's house sake or a bottle of wine

Facilities

Photos The Shinmonzen facilities

Need to know

Rooms

Nine suites.

Check–Out

11am, but flexible until 1pm, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 3pm.

Prices

Double rooms from £1205.65 (JPY230,390), including tax at 25 per cent.

More details

Rates usually include a Japanese or western breakfast made using farm-to-table ingredients, one-way transfer from Kyoto Station, minibar items, bike hire and a one-hour walking tour.

Also

Jiki and Take suites are fully accessible for guests with mobility issues, plus there are elevators, roll-in bathrooms and free wheelchair hire if needed.

At the hotel

Spa treatment room and gym, riverside lounge, concierge, free-to-hire bikes, laundry service (charged), free high-speed WiFi. In rooms: 55-inch Sony Bravia 4K TV, sound-system, yoga mats, free gourmet minibar, selection of Uji farm teas, Nespresso machine on request, Ploh Plush bathrobes, pyjamas, yukatas, Dyson hairdryer, Kurotani washi paper and USB chargers.

Our favourite rooms

Rooms offer a respectful bow to Kyoto’s craft tradition and the divine – in all senses – materials revered in Buddhist philosophy: bamboo, silk, stone, marble and lacquer. At first glance, these are humble, uncluttered spaces with wood finishes, shoji screens, tatami mats and enough furnishings for a comfortable stay. But, like a ukiyo-e woodblock or a painstaking work of kyo-nui embroidery, rich detail emerges, whether it's the sycamore headboards and live-edge tables by master carpenter Paul Longpré, Takayuki Watanabe’s perfectly imperfect ceramics, bento boxes by fifth-generation bamboo masters Kohchosai Kosuga or Toan Nguyen’s sculptural seating. Subtle nods to its Provençal sister are evident in French-silver door handles and jasmine growing on the balconies, and owner Paddy Mckillen has added sweet personal touches: Irish moss for his homeland and keys engraved with his late pet puppy Erin. First-time visitors should note that twin beds are more common in Japanese hotels, so if you want to snuggle up, choose Tooki, Washi, Urushi or Hinoki, which all have king-size beds; and note that some rooms don’t have a hinoki bath tub or a balcony. For a full house of luxuries, choose Hinoki, which has a double-aspect balcony and plenty of space, and for a little gallery outside your door, choose Urushi – the corridor leading up to it is lined with some of the hotel’s big-name artworks.

Spa

There’s just one mind-clearingly minimalist treatment room, but it smells amazing, thanks to the range of aromatherapy-led massages offered – or get a boost from the universe with reiki energy healing. Private yoga and Zazen (a Bhuddist meditation practice) can be booked on request, and the 24-hour cardio-focused fitness room has Technogym bikes, cross-trainers and treadmills. Therapists can also set up their tables in your equally restful suite.

Packing tips

Leave your loungewear at home – your room has cuddly Ploh bathrobes, yukatas and pyjamas to ensure maximum cosiness.

Also

The Shimonzen’s sister stay Villa La Coste is practically a living artwork, with its huge-scale interactive installations and architectural follies, and this ryokan is as much a shrine to culture, in it's creatively thriving neighbourhood.

Pet‐friendly

One pooch under 15kg can stay for free in the following suites: Washi, Tooki, Jiki, Urushi, Hinoki and Suisho. And, a bed, bowl and other treats will be provided. See more pet-friendly hotels in Kyoto.

Children

What’s the sound of one hand clapping? It’s hard to tell when there are smalls tearing about… Children can stay, and there’s babysitting and a dedicated menu, but you may feel more Zen without them.

Sustainability efforts

The hotel has signed the Unesco sustainable tourism pledge to show their commitment to environmentally sound practices. The building has largely been built using sustainable natural materials sourced locally, and its design is in keeping with the city’s historic district. They recycle, use LED bulbs, conserve water where possible, have eliminated plastics and use eco-friendly bath products (packaging is biodegradable and toothbrushes and hairbrushes are made out of bamboo. And, the restaurant runs on seasonal, local produce, with more plant-based options and no breakfast buffet to cut down on waste. And, they’re community minded too, reaching out to help farmers in Ohara and Keihoku, and organising guest meet-ups and donations.

Food and Drink

Photos The Shinmonzen food and drink

Dress Code

Leave kimonos to the locals and slip into something clean, crisp and cool. Here’s where your most ergonomically mind-bending Miyake and Yamamoto pieces can come into play.

Hotel restaurant

Like Tadao Ando’s dynamic Japanification of Paris’s Bourse de Commerce, adding a concrete cylinder under the gallery’s glass rotunda roof and expansive 19th-century trade mural, famed French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s restaurant here will be another exciting cultural exchange. The influence of Kyoto cuisine will be strong, and ingredients will be sourced from its rural outskirts, but there will also be caviar by the tin-load, with a savoury take on ‘bubble tea’; a pairing with crispy potato strands, sea urchin and yuzu-ranch dressing; and egg toast topped with caviar and fines herbes among other tastefully fused favourites. 

Hotel bar

As red as a Shinto shrine’s gates and inspired by ‘fire’ – the most passionate of the elements – the bar adds some bolder local colour to the Shinmonzen. Slung over the bar are sakes and cocktails with European roots plus a little Japanese verve.

Last orders

Breakfast is from 7am to 10.30am, lunch from 11.30am to 2pm, and dinner from 5.30pm to 9pm.

Room service

Whether you want a warming matcha or a romantic meal to enjoy on your balcony, you can order to your door 24/7.

Location

Photos The Shinmonzen location
Address
The Shinmonzen
Shinmonzen-dori, 235 Nishinocho, Higashiyama Ward
Kyoto
605-0088
Japan

The Shinmonzen is in Kyoto’s photogenic Gion district, from which the enshrined city unfurls like lotus petals, at the criss-cross of historic Shirakawa and Shinmonzen streets.

Planes

Osaka International (AKA Itami) is the closest hub, around an hour’s drive from the hotel, but flights only arrive here from across Japan (from Tokyo the journey’s around an hour). Kansai is a 90-minute drive, but flights land direct here from the west coast of the US, major cities in continental Europe, Australia and South East Asia; and it’s possible to charter private-jet landings here. Transfers can be arranged from both from JPY40,000 one-way for up to six guests (in a limousine if you’d like); these need to be booked more than 48 hours in advance of arrival.

Trains

The fastest connection between Japan’s major cities and Kyoto is the Tokaido Shinkansen (more commonly known as the ‘bullet train’); tickets are pricier, but you’ll have a comfier seat and arrive an hour sooner than the regular Japan Railways trains would – from Tokyo the journey is around two hours, and the station is a 15-minute drive from the hotel. Kyoto’s subway only has two lines criss-crossing the city – you’re more likely to explore on foot, but if you start to flag, Sanjō Station is just a five-minute walk away.

Automobiles

There’s really no reason to rent a car in Kyoto; go as gracefully and meditatively as the maikos in their towering geta footwear, so you don’t miss rows of exquisitely crafted wooden machiya, scarlet torii gates leading to delicate shrines and serene temples, or its colourful seasonal coats (from pink blossoms in spring to flaming momiji come autumn). To cover more ground, go it like the locals who zoom up and down the banks of the Kamo, and rent a bike. Hire is free at the hotel, roads are flat and fellow cyclists courteous; and if you do hire a car to explore the Kansai region’s more rural areas, there’s free parking close by.

Worth getting out of bed for

A stroll along Shirakawa Street, in the scenic – and immensely popular – Gion district, will take you back in time to the Meiji era, with its artfully composed wooden machiya, cosy teahouses and inns, and bustling geikos and maikos (geishas and their apprentices) shuffling along between appointments. Here, the rabble of telephone wires that criss-cross Kyoto’s streets are hidden away, leaving just willow boughs overhead, and there’s a lower concentration of tourists than in Hanami-koji Street close by. And, crossing that is the hotel’s namesake street Shinmonzen Dori; less picturesque, but no less refined, it’s renowned for its antiques and artisans, where spaces such as the Ezoshi Gallery sell traditional ukiyo-e woodblock prints, which reflect the timeless scenes carrying on around you, R Kita (256 Shinmonzen) stocks vintage kimono and fine antique Imari tea sets, and Kawasaki Bijutsu offers intricately decorated folding screens. If you’re in over your head when it comes to cultural immersion (after all, the prefecture has more than 1,600 temples, a dizzying mix of modern and traditional, and a fine-tooth-comb approach is needed when it comes to authentic experiences), then turn to the Shinmonzen’s concierge. They can send you off on a private rickshaw tour from Tatsumi Bridge (after a quick photo session) to give you the lay of the land, set up a bespoke Zen and mindfulness meditation session at Ryosoku-in Temple in the grounds of the oldest Buddhist temple Kennin-ji (established in the 13th century), and set up a hosted tea ceremony in the restful confines of Kōrin-in Temple. Or you can choose to embark on a tea-house crawl through the city. It’s hard to whittle down the sacred landmarks of Japan’s spiritual heart, but Kiyomizu-dera which roosts among woods in the eastern hills, gleamingly gilded Kinkakuji to the north and the infinitely regressive gates of Fushimi Inari shrine will all be familiar with travel-porn enthusiasts. However, you may prefer to pay deference at the bunny-dedicated Okazaki shrine, or clock the unique faces of each of the 1,001 statues of Kannon (the Bhuddist god of mercy) at Sanjūsangen-dō. In spring, see the sakura burst into baby pinks in Maruyama Park – or take a 30-minute cab ride to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, where the dulcet sound of swaying stalks has been officially recognised by the government and offers plant-based Zen. Your pathway back to the modern world is through Kyoto’s museums and galleries, say the National Museum of Modern Art, or more niche spaces such as the Kodama Gallery whose works have much to say, or up-and-comer-supporting Maeda Hiromi. Or delve into Japan’s fantastical comic-book worlds at the International Manga Museum before swinging by Ichijo-dori street, where curious folk monsters known as yokai stand guard.

Local restaurants

The just-so nature of Japanese style extends to dining in Kyoto, where highly seasonal kaiseki menus see each discrete ingredient as an indispensable element – say, a sliver of sashimi, intricately carved vegetable or finishing-touch flower. It can be costly (Michelin stars are liberally scattered about here), but to have an array of tiny bowls and exquisitely crafted courses laid in front of you, try Soujiki Nakahigashi; the menu is chef’s choice and changes with whatever nature has provided that day, but vegetables and herbs gathered in the mountains come to the fore. Reservations are tough to get – especially if you want to chat to the chef – so book well in advance. Ogata, a restaurant with a simple counter and very slim number of covers is also famously impenetrable for those not in-the-know, but if you strike lucky, you’re in for some truly spectacular edible theatre here. Close to the bamboo forest, Lurra shows the Venn crossover between Japanese and Nordic cuisines (excellent fish, delicate botanicals, seasonal sway), with its Noma alumnus chef who ferments and wood fires elegant plates that have earnt this joint Michelin acclaim. And, Italian and Japanese dining might seem at odds – for one, cheese is somewhat scant in Kyoto – but Cenci deftly brokers a treaty between them, with its crab fettuccine, Hokkaido oyster risotto, mackerel with yuzu and a creamy chestnut ice-cream, plus a full-bodied wine list.

Local cafés

For eats on-the-go (although not as you're walking – it’s considered very bad manners), Nishiki Market has been peddling street food and snacks for hundreds of years. Pick up skewers loaded with octopus, offal, wagyu and more; mochi of all flavours; dumplings and tamagoyaki (loaded omelette-pizza hybrids). And, a visit to an ochaya (tea house) is about so much more than a brew, rather partaking in a ceremony that’s been refined since the 12th century. Gion is home to many, including the ultra-exclusive, invite-only Ichiriki Chaya; but you can have an equally authentic and captivating experience at spots such as Camellia or En.

Local bars

In Gion, El Tesoro has a fittingly vintage feel and hundreds of bottles of whisky glowing amber behind the bar. There’s plenty shipped in from Scottish distilleries, both indie and established, but with the knowledgeable barkeep at your service, it’s an excellent spot for an intro to Japan’s popular, clean and strong native whiskies. Bar Rocking Chair does indeed have a few swaying seats for punters to lull themselves in, and a cosy atmosphere with room for 30 at most, but it’s not quite as sedate a night as the name suggests. There’s no cocktail menu, just bartenders with vivid imaginations and a strong sense of omotenashi who’ll craft bespoke drinks from you after a chat about your likes and dislikes. 

Reviews

Photos The Shinmonzen reviews
Lucy Laucht

Anonymous review

By Lucy Laucht, Photographer and serial wanderer

I need to start this anonymous review with a spoiler alert: the Shinmonzen in Kyoto is one of the best hotels I’ve experienced. In fact, it was so good I think it’s ruined us for life.

Now that’s out of the way, here’s the full story: this hidden haven of contemporary design – with traits of a traditional ryokan and an unparalleled service philosophy – is nestled into a quiet lane in historic Gion, a district filled with tea houses, generations-old antiques shops, sightings of tottering geiko and maiko, and art galleries, all of which transport you to a different era. Amid all this, the Shinmonzen’s understated dark-timber façade nods to neighbouring traditional wooden machiya townhouses and belies the hotel’s modern, art-filled interior, while the Shirakawa River flowing alongside gives a sense of escape from the city bustle – its trickling sound as settling as a resounding ‘om’. This magical alchemy resulted from the meeting of two masters in their respective fields: celebrated contemporary Japanese architect Tadao Ando, and vaunted hotelier Patrick McKillen (the visionary behind Provençal sister stay Villa La Coste). 

Behind the Shinmonzen’s discreet entrance, a futuristic concrete corridor leads to the lobby, a space so jam-packed with art we devise a daily game of ‘I spy’. A beautifully crafted Charlotte Perriand desk is the centrepiece, surrounded by works by Gerhard Richter, Louise Bourgeois and Damien Hirst. Delicate prints of geiko portraiture by Mary McCartney line the walls, and bookshelves are stacked with thoughtful design-themed reads and delicate Japanese ceramics. We are greeted with free matcha-infused drinks, and I observe that a chip in my cup has been elegantly repaired with gold, the ancient Japanese practice of kintsugi in action. And, throughout our time here, we find every detail of the Shinmonzen experience as exquisitely considered. 

Each of the nine individually decorated suites has a private balcony overlooking the Shirakawa River, from which you can spy the hotel’s unofficial mascot – a graceful heron who goes by the name Sagi-San – keeping a watchful eye out. This kind of scenic outlook makes taking the traditional Japanese breakfast on your terrace feel like a reverential way to start the day, as Kyoto springs to life. Our suite, named Kinu, is bathed in beautiful soft light, diffused through a shoji screen. Two futon-style beds, tatami mats and a closet bigger than your average NYC apartment tie modern and traditional design elements together; and room amenities are abundant: linen pyjamas, skincare products you actually want to use, and a fridge stocked with delicious locally made treats. When we return each evening, we find our oversized hinoki bath tub magically filled, with yuzu fruits bobbing in the water, filling the air with citrus scent. 

Our meal at the Jean-Georges at the Shinmonzen restaurant (that being the celebrated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten) stands out as one of our more memorable Kyoto experiences. We dine outside, with riverine views, while Sagi-San casts a curious gaze from afar. The menus (which start from a three-course lunch and go up to an eight-course tasting feast) showcase dishes with roots in both Kyoto and France; our steak is perfectly cooked and accompanied by a bottle whisked in from Château La Coste, the winery of Villa La Coste. 

While the hotel has many stand-out features, it’s perhaps the service that sings loudest here. The team holds the keys to practically everywhere in Kyoto through a carefully cultivated network of contacts. One morning I casually mentioned the lengthy queue at famed desert restaurant Gion Komori, later an exquisitely packaged box of Warabimochi from there appears in our room. A whispered recommendation results in an off-the-beaten path experience involving the best gyoza I’ve tasted. You want a private guided-meditation session at Ryosoku-in Temple? No problem. Trying to secure impossible-to-get reservations at fully booked restaurants? You’re in. The service is highly attentive yet understated and – well – just very, very good indeed. 

So, I may have started this review by ruining its ending, but nothing spoiled the finale of our stay at the Shinmonzen. We left in love, unsurprisingly, as it epitomised all I treasure about Japan: the richness of its culture, set against a carefully woven tapestry of old and new, with every detail so thoughtfully considered.

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Price per night from $1,217.78