East meets west
Fort Cochin cricket ground
Get this when you book through us:
A bottle of wine
Rates from (ex tax)$265.48 If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days. Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR299.80), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.
If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.
Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR299.80), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.
East meets west
Fort Cochin cricket ground
Get this when you book through us:
A bottle of wine
17, including six suites.
Double rooms from $265.48 (€250), excluding tax at 19.92 per cent.
If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days. Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR299.80), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.
Rates include a choice of Continental or South Indian breakfast.
The hotel prides itself on its art collection which showcases Kerala's cosmopolitan influences and sculptures and paintings are scattered throughout the Malabar House.
Ayurvedic spa treatments, free WiFi throughout, bicycles to borrow. In rooms: air-con, flatscreen TV and DVD players, luxe rain-style showers and inspired own-range toiletries, including rosewater.
Each room has its own look, but the five Roof Garden Suites on the first floor, and the two-floored Malabar Suite are the most spacious and special. Rooms 10 and 11 have their own roof gardens and double-poster beds made from reclaimed pillars.
The small pool right by the reception is suitable for a quick plunge, but this isn't really sunbathing territory, although there are a few loungers for bolder bronzers.
Mosquito repellent and wrist- and ankle-covering layers – particularly if you plan to sit by the swimming pool in the terrace restaurant.
Smoking rooms are available on request.
All ages are welcome. Extra beds are €25 a night. Babysitting can be arranged with notice.
Grab a table by the live musicians for maximum tabla-and-sitar sounds, or pick a romantic spot next to the pool.
Go local but glam; we love the pretty cotton clothing from around the corner at FabIndia.
The Malabar Junction, the restaurant in the hotel’s courtyard that comes to life by night, is well known for delivering Mediterranean cuisine by way of South India – a rare treat in this land. In rainy weather, there are tables indoors.
There isn’t a bar as such, but the candlelit tables in the courtyard or on one of the terraces are the ideal spot for a colonial-style G&T. You can enjoy wine and beer in the lounge just above the restaurant.
The Malabar Junction isn't strict about meal times, but dinner is generally available until around midnight.
Really, only breakfast can be rustled up for you to enjoy in private until 11am (a Continental-style spread or South Indian favourites, such as a banana and coconut dosa), and supper until 11pm (orders before 10.30pm).
The nearest airport is Cochin International, an hour and a half away by car. Trivandrum’s airport is 150km away.
To get to Ernakulam Junction (South), which is connected to all major cities in India and Kerala, expect a 45-minute drive.
The hotel is in the middle of Fort Cochin, where there’s a full supply of rickshaws, as well as guided tours that come with drivers, so your own car isn’t strictly necessary.
As much as we’d loved staying in boutique hotels in remote rural idylls during our Kerala trip, we were looking forward to a dose of urban Indian life, care of historic Cochin. For me, the beauty of this mighty sub-continent is all its colourful contrasts, and we were eagerly anticipating the sensory explosions of a stay at the Malabar House hotel in Fort Cochin. This stylish South Indian hotel has been open for 10 years, and with the boast that it was the first boutique hotel in Kerala, has earned almost cult status in luxury travel, making our visit to the city all the more exciting.
The heady smells of frying food, incense, fuel fumes, jasmine, frangipani, dust, spices and burning rubbish jumbled in the humid air as we sped through the streets of Cochin. Ridiculously busy and bustling, Fort Cochin’s narrow stall-packed streets were filled with people, animals, rickshaws, cars, scooters, bicycles – and the deafening cacophony they create. Vibrant green, fluoro pink, acid yellow and dazzling orange saris glowed against the beautiful skin of gold-jewellery-adorned Keralan women, clashing spectacularly with brightly painted shop fronts and rickety shacks.
Reaching a large expanse of parade ground where boys were playing cricket and football, it took a second look to spy our hotel, Malabar House, hidden on a corner at the junction of two quiet streets. An off-the-hectic-track location makes this original east-meets-west boutique hotel a calm, cool beacon of space on a gloriously sunny hot afternoon – irresistible after the hubbub of Cochin. A heritage property, Malabar House’s history can be traced back to 1755; its modern-day layout combines two colonial style villas with a connecting courtyard. A few steps into the airy, mustard-hued reception, and eye-catching sculptures ramp up the wow-factor; I’m sure the receptionist noticed that the carved wooden horse and its unmissably large (and detailed) appendage made me blush. Checked in, we had snoop around the Continental café-feel courtyard, resplendent with a pink frangipani tree shading a small pool. Its occupants weren’t quite the swimwear-clad guests we’d expected, though; Mr & Mrs Pigeon were having a quick splash and eyeing up the few sunloungers and director’s chairs squeezed into the rhombus of sun on the terrace.
My eco instincts usually baulk at air-conditioning being left on when no one’s in the room but, I confess, as we stepped into our room, it was lovely to feel chilled air after the long, hot drive from Thekkady. Unfortunately, we hadn’t emphasised our room preference, and ours was a no-view twin on the ground floor at the front of the house, rather than one of the suites upstairs. The room itself was simply furnished, enhanced by an ornately carved and rather lovely cabinet, and a sleek propeller-style ceiling fan; the compact red bathroom had a delightful selection of Malabar’s own pampering products.
By now, night was falling, and dinner was calling – no, hollering – from the hotel courtyard, which looked charming: all green-lit trees, sparkling pool, and tabla-patting, sittar-plucking musicians on a totem-pole-framed dais. The extensive list of Indian wines scanned, we quizzed our waiter about the three rosés on offer. His first less-than-expert bubblegum-pink recommendation was swiftly rejected with good humour; the second was a peach-toned Zinfadel that tasted as good as one would expect from any quality restaurant in London. As we’d been living exclusively on curries for a week by now, we were delighted by the menu’s Mediterranean twist, and didn’t feel guilty ordering salads, gnocchi and an aubergine parmigiano. The pudding list was just as alluring, and we found space for the hotel’s speciality: chocolate samosas. We’d have sat swooning over the delicious deep-fried parcels of melted chocolate in mango sauce for longer, but our table’s close proximity to the pool meant mozzie madness. We weren’t the only ones feasting – some bit right through our clothes. Still, a Bollywood movie on the flatscreen TV back in our boudoir with the rest of our wine was hardly a poor compromise.
After a breakfast of papaya, pineapple and watermelon, muesli, and poached eggs, we were ready to get stuck into some shopping. First on our list was getting some favourite pieces of clothing from home copied by a local tailor. A tip from staff at the Old Harbour Hotel, where we stopped for coffee, led us a short walk to Thomas the Tailor. Thomas recommended somewhere for fabrics a 10-minute rickshaw ride away. Both seasoned India travellers, we’re experienced at bartering, but this being our first buy of the trip, we’d forgotten all our skills, and ended up settling on a price more befitting of Savile Row. Still, back with friendly Thomas, and thanks to his promise of turning our linen trousers around in record time, it seemed a steal. A poke through the clothes shops deemed local purchases a bit too hippie-ish and – with costs matching Camden Market – a bit too pricey for my tastes, so we saved our retail hankerings for FabIndia, around the corner from Malabar House. (It proved a treasure trove for gifts, and I stocked up on well made, gorgeously printed cottons and prettily packaged Ayurvedic toiletries.)
Our walk back to Malabar House took us along the water’s edge, where Fort Cochin’s iconic Chinese fishing nets were silhouetted against the evening sky. Passing so many stands en route displaying freshly caught seafood on ice makes it tempting to stop and buy some, and take it to one of the makeshift cafés opposite to be cooked and served for you. It all looked so authentic and inviting, only we’d booked a table at the famous Fort Cochin fish restaurant at the Casino Hotel on Willingdon Island.
For the true Indian transit experience, we hailed a rickshaw and squeezed in for a bumpy ride. The half-hour drive took us through busy Cochin and crossed over the river to Willingdon Island. Suddenly the streetlights ended and the rest of our journey was in ominous darkness through an area of warehouses, parked-up trucks and dawdling drifters. Our imaginations were running riot by now, and we were sure our driver was planning to sell us to one the shadowy figures, or pitch us into the harbour. Just then our cheery chauffeur chirpily announced that we had arrived at the Casino Hotel. Ah.
We padded through a brightly lit reception to a rustic but surprisingly romantic outdoor restaurant, Fort Cochin. Once seated at an open-to-the-stars table, we ordered incredible-looking seafood from a magnificent trolley. We chatted to the waiter, and mentioned the tempting temporary cafés by the Chinese fishing nets. He informed us that if we’d looked a little closer, we’d have noticed that these cafés have no running water, which means cutlery and crockery is reused rather than washed up. Suddenly they seemed a little less charming, and we were thrilled to have made it to the Casino Hotel restaurant for what turned out to be the best lobster we’ve ever eaten.
With no more surprise twists in our adventure, the time to leave in one of the white Forties-style Ambassador taxis soon came. The receptionist at Malabar House asked if we would like a peek at the other rooms before catching our Emirates flight from Cochin airport. We followed the spiral staircase up to artwork-sporting corridors to spy some of the first-floor rooms. Rooms 10 and 11 had their own roof gardens, four-poster beds and reclaimed wooden pillars. Beautiful semi-erotic artwork adorned the walls, and the bathrooms had big windows with pulley blinds by the bath overlooking private courtyards. How romantic – we were green with envy. Perhaps their plan was to use the suites as bait to make sure we’d come back again? Chances are, it’s done the trick.
The restaurant, the decor, the courtyard, the staff, the wine bar, the location.
Over-the-top pampering nor excellent spa.