The Kin Hotel

I landed on a drizzly, monsoon morning, fully expecting to spend at least an hour in Mumbai’s infamous traffic. But to my ecstatic surprise, the journey to The Kin Hotel barely took 20 minutes, thanks to the city's new roads. In fact, the hotel’s greatest trick is perhaps its location. It is quite possibly the most perfectly positioned boutique hotel in Mumbai now that these infrastructure upgrades are finally taking shape. Wedged between north and south Mumbai, it really is the perfect launchpad — close enough to dive headfirst into the city’s noise and colour, but far enough to retreat when it all becomes a little too much. Which it easily can.

An added bonus is the charming kaali peeli lined up right opposite the front door — these affectionately named, battered black and yellow taxis will zip you around town and are a must-do over the more modern taxi apps. No data roaming needed. Just a madman of a taxi driver squeezing between booming buses and bicycle rickshaws.

The hotel has been created by a brother and sister duo, Imrun and Guneet Singh, who have revived an old guesthouse in Dadar, once owned by their grandfather. A cage lift took me to my corner suite on the third floor, which was modern and retro in equal measure. Shades of grey, teak wall panels, orb-like lamps, paintings that are for sale in the 24-hour lobby shop, a rotary phone and a bath. A bath! I had been travelling for nearly a month in the countryside of India with bucket washes becoming my daily norm, so I almost burst into tears at the sight of it. I rushed to turn the taps on and as if by magic, housekeeping arrived with a bowl of eucalyptus and spearmint Epsom salts. The timing was flawless.

After an embarrassingly long soak, I was starving. The house restaurant Terttulia is in Imrun’s wheelhouse. He has filled the menu with feel-good classics and there is definitely something for everyone here, but it was pasta that I was craving. After weeks of delicious dishes filled with South-East Asian spices, I was ready for a European carb coma. The truffle tagliarini with a side of garlicky, lemony broccoli and a very reasonably priced Indian Fratelli hit the spot. The following day, I went back for more but this time I remembered to ask for the Korean pull-apart bread to scarpetta the delicious sauce.

Evenings at the hotel have a very relaxed vibe and one that isn’t loud enough to invade solo Kindle time. I judge a bar by its ability to deliver my margarita order perfectly. It takes some explanation, you see. I am not one for gimmicky glasses — rather, I prefer a classic rock glass with a half-salted rim. The boy did good. So good in fact that I had a couple, which lulled me into the right amount of sleepy that I almost didn’t notice how soft the sheets were. Almost.

Breakfasts are an all-day affair, with chai and poha alongside flat whites and avo toast or tofu scramble. Not very authentic one might say, but there is plenty of time to taste Dadar’s food offerings. Just a 15-minute walk away is Ashok Vada Pav. Don’t be put off by the queue. It moves fast and within no time, a mere 30 rupees will get you the legendary fried potato ball in a soft, chilli-sauce-basted bun. Or perhaps a bun maska at the historic Parsi café Light of Bharat, or piping hot idli and vada at Mani’s Café…

As a former florist, I can’t not mention the fresh flowers every day. It’s a treat to see casual, understated vases instead of gargantuan displays. Dadar's famed flower market is just around the corner and makes for a wonderful amble if you’re up early. And if not, simply admire the blooms that fill the nooks and crannies here, arranged by Guneet’s own hands.

I arrived at The Kin Hotel tired, fraught and in need of winding down. And while even on this leafy cul de sac, you can still hear Mumbai’s 24-hour symphony of 'Horn OK Please', winding down is exactly what I was able to do — in a cocoon of comfort and class.