The Editory Boulevard Aliados

Worth getting out of bed for

At the Editory, you’re sandwiched between the Rua do Almada and its rabble of balcony-fronted and Azulejo-tiled façades, and Avenida dos Aliados, Porto’s major artery, which is so grand, even its McDonalds has a glamorous art deco frontage (it was once the Café Imperial). First, make a beeline for the Câmara Municipal do Porto, to get the lay of the land from the top of its bell tower. Orient yourself ornately with stops at the Clérigos Church (another view-blessed spot), the 12th-century cathedral, exquisitely manicured Palácio de Cristal gardens, former stock exchange Palácio da Bolsa, and Livraria Lello – a dream of a bookshop with stained-glass ceilings, art nouveau flourishes and criss-crossing staircases. Then, shake off the frills and flounces at strikingly modern Rem Koolhaas-designed Casa da Música, a concert hall with diverse programming, and Fundação de Serralves, whose clean-cut geometric structure houses big-idea artworks. Amble along to seafront Foz do Duoro for sandy praias and antique fortresses. Then hop on a cruise along the River Douro, the gateway to Portugal’s fruitful wine region. Other more active ways of getting to know the city include bike or helicopter tours, a ride on the Gaia Cable Car, or a vertiginous trip up the Funicular dos Guindais, which gives a dramatic aspect of the Dom Luís I Bridge. Immerse yourself in the buzz of Bolhão Market, munch your way through the street eats of Bom Sucesso Market, and fix yourself a picnic – with the prettiest of packaging – with stops at old-school grocery stores Casa Oriental and A Pérola do Bolhão. And, lest we forget Portugal’s thirst for football, you can get that back-of-the-net boost with lessons at the One Troia José Mourinho Training Centre.

Local restaurants

Some might say combining a sandwich and soup is impractical. Porto says no. Behold the francesinha, a finger-licking, shirt-ruining treat consisting of a ham, sausage and steak sandwich, coated with melted cheese and drenched in a tomato and beer sauce. Each eatery has its own take on it, but you can’t go wrong following Anthony Bourdain to O Afonso, whose iteration is well worth the mess. Further mind-opening happens at the marble counter of Euskalduna Studio; a menu of 10 ‘moments’ and some surprises changes on a whim. You might have amberjack with tomato and sudachi (a Japanese citrus fruit); pithivier with pig head, chicken and suckling pig; and a churro topped with rosemary-infused caviar and white chocolate. If the Editory’s chef has wowed you with his culinary sleight of hand, why not try sister restaurant Auge, which elegantly uses pan-Mediterranean flavours. Or prepare yourself for a surprise tasting menu at their Baixa bolthole’s eatery A Escola By the Artist – we’ll try not to spoil it too much, but you might get the likes of mackerel with kumquat and apple gel or tuna tartare with ginger and wasabi.

Local cafés

Taqueria Invicto has earnt a following for its tacos and tortillas stuffed to the seams with fixings, but their chicken-Milanese sandwich with chipotle crema in sesame bread, churro milkshakes and punch-packing Palomas are also a draw. And the Vogue Café upholds the magazine’s rep, with its black-and-white tessellated tiles and red-velvet booths; bring suitable reading material and tuck into the caramelised lamb bao with spicy onions and cheddar, salmon and pork belly with roasted pumpkin, and oysters from the Aveiro coast.

Local bars

The bartenders at the Royal Cocktail Club make the kind of drinks one must mention with reverence. Or perhaps in a sultry whisper in the case of, say, the Candlelight, a mix of Johnnie Walker, port, Grand Marnier, bitter chocolate and chilli with a wisp of chocolate smoke. And Bonaparte Downtown is an Irish pub, run by a German and named after a Frenchman, but it is very straightforward when it comes to being a cosy and cool hangout, with antiques littering the walls and cracked-leather banquettes; for drinks, go with something whisky-based, or just neat.