Stone House Bali

Everyone has a bit of a Tarzan and Jane fantasy, right? Well, this Jane, really felt like some time all to herself, no Tarzan required. All she needed was a treehouse — a heavenly, snug nest of a treehouse — overlooking dazzling emerald rice paddies, with a big bath, the cosiest bed and a swimming pool next door. So, Jane checked into Stone House, a lovingly crafted collection of rooms perched on the edge of Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. What could be more romantic to a busy mama than two nights of sleep, space and popping out of her treehouse paradise to catch up with local Bali friends? 

I arrive and am greeted by the friendliest staff and taken through the portal of my circular bamboo door into my very own luxury treehouse. I’m a bit hungry after my travels, so a delicious prawn laksa arrives and I eat it while taking in the views of rice paddies, village life and little waterfalls, with birds singing. It’s all deeply calming, to be in a bedroom made of bamboo, in beautiful nature with only natural sounds. 

As the sun sets, I run a big bubble bath in my huge copper tub. I sit for hours in that warm bath, hugged by bubbles, watching the sky change from apricot to orange to black as the crescent moon shines hello. I listen to the sounds of the village ceremony, drums and music, as fireflies dance through the palm trees in the dark sky. 

Too relaxed by now to go to the concert I’d planned to attend with friends, I decided to order some fresh rice-paper rolls to my room and eat them, listening to cicadas and distant drums, on my white cotton chair with big indigo cushions, while reading my book and gazing up at the moon. It’s complete heaven to be on my own but knowing so much care is nearby should I need it. 

When it was time to sleep, someone came to close my treehouse curtains and I got into my bamboo bed, with its little bamboo lights and bamboo pipes that shoot out air-conditioning if you need to turn it on (I didn’t) and the softest white cotton sheets. 

A few treasures had been laid on my bed: a glass jar with home-made cookies, a frangipani flower and a note saying, 'Goodnight stars, goodnight air, goodnight noises everywhere…' from the book Goodnight Moon by Margaret Wise Brown, which I have read many times to my children. 

The final surprise on my bed is a little white gecko and a note about these beautiful creatures you’ll hear chatting away in Bali at night. The note explains how the Balinese believe geckos are 'home gods' and having them in your home keeps negative outside influences away. As well as being good luck, they are also great at getting rid of insects. I fell asleep to the sound of the geckos singing. 

The next day, I watch the morning breaking over the rice paddies. For breakfast at the long table in the kitchen, I feast on fruit, spicy eggs and English-style scones with pineapple jam. The owners' dog Lulu comes to hang out and get cuddles. The owners (who have lived in Bali for a long time) are based next door, and created each of the bedrooms one by one as they raised their family in Bali. 

No wonder then that Stone House feels like a home — a calm, gentle, relaxing home. The other guests at breakfast are a lovely Italian girl travelling alone through Indonesia, and a couple on the first day of their honeymoon. We all chat, sharing stories of our travels and recommending each other temples, restaurants in Ubud and places to visit around the world. 

I read on a white sunlounger by the pool until it's time for a massage at the edge of my treehouse, warmed by the sun. I open my eyes occasionally to see palm trees above my head, the light dancing around my bamboo home. 

A nap and another swim later, I jump on a motorbike and head to my favourite yoga class at Alchemy, a beautiful bamboo studio in butterfly- and flower-filled gardens. Next up is a water temple ceremony with three friends; we’re given sarongs to wear and are led by a priest, lighting incense and praying as we walk through waterfalls and caves. Afterwards, we all feel amazing and head to Rusters for lunch — it has beautiful views and the best coffee, served by the most friendly, lovely people. 

Back at Stone House, a friend joins me for dinner. We feast on fish cooked in banana leaves, long beans cooked in coconut, fluffy yellow rice and delicious sweetcorn fritters spiced with sambals. Lulu the dog goes from guest to guest for snuggles. 

The next morning, I head to my favourite village, Nyuh Kuning, and wander down to the best bookshop in Bali: Si Kecil, which kids will love. I write children’s books called Everything Under The Sun and am thrilled to see some copies in the window. Next, I need a stretch so go to Movement Matters, the best ever Pilates studio.

Back at Stone House that night, it’s quiet and calm, and I swim under a crescent moon and the stars. I've had the most perfect Bali day. I sit on the swinging chair outside my room and listen to the sounds of Bali at night. A long, warm bath later, I go to bed feeling just so happy and lucky to be in Bali — a nurturing, warm place, hectic at times, and peaceful at others.