Six Senses Fort Barwara

I am unsure if many people arrive at Six Senses Fort Barwara in a battered hire car, though I suspect Mr Smith and I may have been the first. It’s cliche to describe India as a place of contrasts but the journey and the destination couldn’t have been more different. After dodging numerous potholes, a herd of goats and a car speeding the wrong way down the highway (yes, really), arriving in the safe arms of the Six Senses felt like one big exhale.

Like all good forts, Fort Barwara is strategically positioned atop a large hill, and as the car trundled its way up the cobbled path inside the fort walls, we were greeted by a sweeping view of the sky as it turned a tangerine orange. The smiling face of Shagufta, our lovely GEM (Guest Experience Manager) who I’d coordinated our arrival over WhatsApp, was there to meet us. Car keys were taken, luggage was whisked away, and we were standing under a shower of rose petals before we knew it.

We were lucky to spend two nights at ‘the fort’ (as staff refer to it) sandwiched between trips to Jaipur and Jaisalmer as part of a Rajasthan road trip. And in seeking some serious respite, our prayers were answered.

Now to the fort itself. Originally built in the 14th century, much of it had fallen into disrepair, though the wing that the Rajasthani Royal Family still used had survived. It was them who partnered with Six Senses on a ten-year project to conserve the two palaces and two temples within the walled fort, and sensitively designed the hotel that now surrounds them. The job is so seamless that at first glance you might not realise what is old and what is new. 

The wing which houses the suites (there are no bedrooms at Six Senses) is newly constructed. Our Fort Suite had a view looking over the lake, with the village of Barwara and the towering Chauth Ka Barwara Mandir temple behind. The suite subtly reflected its surroundings with a draped canopy over the bed and Rajasthani details like arched door frames and Jali screens with a beautiful lattice design. Touches of technology like the smart lighting system and remote-controlled toilet make it clear you’re in a very luxurious modern hotel.

Tiger-watching country is just an hour from the fort and many guests check in here to bed down before a Ranthambore National Park safari. However, we weren’t partaking in this trip and prioritised our 48 hours for relaxing. Turns out, you needn’t leave the grounds to build up a pretty busy schedule. There was the morning heritage and horticulture walk where we were educated on the building’s fascinating backstory and showed the gardens where some of the produce for the restaurants and bars is grown. After that, there was a visit to the Earth Lab where the charming Sustainability Director shared some of their projects like the twenty young eco-warriors from Bharwara village who he works with to track the birdlife on the lake. We also squeezed in a couple’s massage in the original (and truly stunning) women's palace, and put a good few hours in at the Olympic-sized swimming pool, too – laying beside it, that is.

Of course, you’ve got to make time for eating and drinking, which is not something you want to rush here. Exploring the breakfast buffet at The Cortile courtyard restaurant could be a full morning’s activity with its numerous stations dedicated to everything from hot Indian dishes like masala dosas to almond croissants and turmeric overnight oats. That’s before the menu of continental hot dishes you can order. I highly recommend taking the staff up on their offer of a buffet tour to avoid missing anything. 

Lunch was taken poolside at Rani Bagh, the Mediterranean-style restaurant where we enjoyed a mezze platter of Middle Eastern dips alongside rose-scented labneh and a roasted watermelon salad. We enjoyed it so much that we returned for dinner, this time opting for lentil soup, roasted eggplant and braised chickpeas. The candlelit setting by the pool is particularly lovely. 

Back at the Cortile, it’s an all-day multi-cuisine affair, with the chance to sample local Rajasthani food. It’s also the perfect place for a pre-dinner aperitivo. We loved the ‘Viewing Gallery’ cocktail, a Fort Barwara special made with tequila, passionfruit sorbet and masala.  Settling down around the fire pit in the shadow of a 12th-century hunting tower while local musicians play traditional Indian music is pretty special, especially after a few cocktails. With our hazardous journey behind us, we knew that tearing ourselves away from the fort would be an even tougher task.