Pulitzer Paris Hotel

I’ve visited Paris almost every year – sometimes twice – for the past 25 years and the 9th arrondissement has emerged as possibly my favourite place to stay. Its appeal is broad – a shared history with Degas, Picasso and Toulouse-Lautrec for art lovers; more than a hint of grit in its proximity to red-light district Pigalle, and covered arcades and colonnaded concert halls to delight romance-seekers. So I was thrilled to be checking into the Pulitzer Paris Hotel, which sits pretty there on the Rue du Faubourg Montmartre.

The hotel is in a bustling part of the city, just a few steps away from the legendary Bouillon Chartier restaurant, the Musée Grevin with its delightfully camp waxworks, and the buzzed-about falafel and roasted cauliflower at Miznon. A five-minute stroll away lies the Rue des Martyrs, which is one of the best streets for food shopping in the world. Don’t miss Rose Bakery and definitely follow your nose to each of the many cheese shops. The Marais neighbourhood and the department stores of the Grand Boulevards are all within walking distance too. It’s Paris – why not be a flâneur?

On first glance, there’s an air of old-fashioned romance about Pulitzer Paris Hotel, too – its 19th-century townhouse façade on an elegant thoroughfare lending grandeur. But to focus on its history does a disservice to the modern seduction that awaits within, where it matches practicality with panache. Rooms are crisp, contemporary, comfortably appointed and well soundproofed; despite the centrality of the location, the Pulitzer is pin-drop-quiet. Rooms are double-glazed, so even those facing the lively street can’t hear a thing. They’re a bit on the petite side, too, but the beds have incredible mattresses and each has a thoughtful layout; there’s a lot of closet space and a bathroom with a massive shower (and great water pressure), so I didn’t feel cramped. The Nespresso machine was a nice touch for the jet-lagged.

The staff are very sweet and accommodating; they’re fluent in several languages and will do things like leave bouquets of flowers in the rooms of long-stay guests. I had a package couriered to my room and they signed for it and brought it to my room without the phone calls and faff some hotels give you. If you flew in early, as I did, and your room isn’t yet ready, they will gladly store your luggage while you – pro tip – go for a steam at the nearby Hammam des Bains du Marais.

For those of us for whom a holiday really means one thing and one thing only: a lazy hotel breakfast – the Pulitzer does not disappoint. The coffee and espresso drinks are strong and there’s an array of fresh pastries, breads, homemade jams, granola, meats, cheeses, fresh fruit… And you can go even more decadent if you wish, ordering off a menu with avocado toast, omelettes and crêpes. Confident this Opéra district address can compete with the bars and restaurants nearby (in which staff are well versed to assist sorties), the hotel also has a spruce lobby bar and plant-dotted heated patio, where, come evening, you can sit with a glass of champagne and a cheese and charcuterie board before enjoying a night at the opera down the street. 

Pulitzer Hotel Paris is hard to beat for its super-central location and budget-friendly price. It’s that rare deal, where you needn’t sacrifice luxury for value.