Tuscany, Italy

Poggio Piglia

Rates per night from$228.23

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR200.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Cultured contemporary casale

Setting

Charming Chiusi

The brilliantly named Poggio Piglia hotel in Tuscany has a stash of enviable art and bucolic charm by the barrel-load: wine and olive oil are produced on site, and rooms look out over some of Italy’s finest scenery. There’s an elegant, airy restaurant with Kartell chairs and equally chic Italian cuisine, and a glittering infinity pool set in the gardens.

This rustic retreat stay is a stop on our Tuscan itinerary.

Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

Welcome drink on arrival and a bottle of wine in your room; GoldSmiths get a bottle of the hotel’s olive oil instead of the wine

Facilities

Photos Poggio Piglia facilities

Need to know

Rooms

Nine.

Check–Out

By 10.30am. Earliest check-in, 2pm.

Rates

Double rooms from $228.23 (€200), excluding tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €1.00 per person per night on check-out.

More details

Rates usually include buffet breakfast.

At the hotel

Free WiFi in communal areas. In rooms: flatscreen TV, minibar and Be One bath products.

Our favourite rooms

We lost our heart to the one-bedroom Independent Villa, which occupies its own little patch of hotel grounds, flanked by olive trees and overlooking the Tuscan countryside. Because the villa is set apart from the main building, bedding down here feels romantic and private. That said, the Deluxe Rooms have nut-brown parquet floors, wooden-beamed ceilings and sweeping views…

Poolside

There’s a beautiful infinity pool set in the herb-packed gardens. The hotel has pool toys for little ones to frolic with.

Packing tips

Leave space in your suitcase for bottles of the hotel’s own olive oil and wine, but don’t forget your bottle opener and picnic rug.

Also

There’s no lift, but the nimble bellboys will deliver your luggage upstairs if needed.

Children

The hotel has a very grown-up feel, but well-behaved little Smiths are welcome. Babysitting can be arranged. There’s no children’s menu, but the chef is happy to adapt his dishes for younger palates (pasta with tomato sauce, for example).

Food and Drink

Photos Poggio Piglia food and drink

Top Table

Out on the terrace, with the breeze on your skin. On cooler days, you can sit indoors but admire what’s outside, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling glass windows.

Dress Code

Relaxed refinement, just like the hotel: a splash of silk in olive and gold hues; cashmere; cologne.

Hotel restaurant

Chef Giorgio Cabella rustles up elegant Italian dishes in the cream-and-white restaurant: expect a menu that hops from the traditional to the playful: tagliata of Chianina beef, or pork fillet cooked with raspberries and truffles, for example. Order a bottle or two of Poggio Piglia’s garnet-red wine, made from Sangiovese grapes.

Hotel bar

Get to know the hotel’s grapes with a wine tasting at the informal bar area, just by the restaurant. Enjoy your tipple out on the terrace, in the gardens or on one of the cosy sofas dotted around the communal spaces downstairs.

Last orders

Dinner is served between 7pm and 11pm. Breakfast is available from 8am until 10am; lunch is served Tuesday to Sunday, 12.30pm until 2pm.

Room service

None, so make the most of breakfast, lunch and dinner. Staff will happily point you in the direction of the nearest food store or restaurant…

Location

Photos Poggio Piglia location
Address
Poggio Piglia
Macciano
Chiusi
53043
Italy

Planes

Florence's main airport, Peretola (aka Amerigo Vespucci; www.aeroporto.firenze.it) is 120km away. Rome’s airport, Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino; www.rome-airport.info), is 200km away. Most international carriers fly here, including Alitalia, British Airways and easyJet.

Trains

Chiusi station is a 10-minute drive from Poggio Piglia, with services connecting to Rome, Arezzo, Florence and other key Italian cities (www.trenitalia.com).

Automobiles

It’s a great idea to bring wheels: driving in Tuscany is a pleasure, and gives you easy access to all that you’ll want to visit nearby – verdant vineyards, hilltop towns, rustic trattoria – as well as making day trips to Rome or Florence easy-peasy. From the Mi-Roma A1, take the the Chiusi Chianciano Terme exit onto the SP146. Turn left at the first crossroads toward Chianciano. After 2km, you will find a petrol pump on your left; keep on going for 200m and on your right, you will find the country lane that leads to Poggio Piglia.

Worth getting out of bed for

Go roaming around the gardens, admiring the olive trees (there are more than 900), where five types of olive flourish: Frantoio, Moraiolo, Correggiola, Leccino and Pendolino. Ask staff to give you a tutorial or guided tour, if you want to learn more about the production process (or just make a note to dip bread in a glug or two, in the restaurant). Further afield, there’s plenty to keep you busy. Head to Florence, Siena, Pisa or Arezzo for mediaeval splendour and Chianti countryside. Montepulciano, Cortona, Pienza and Chiusi are an hour’s drive away. Visit wineries (start with Avignosi or Contucci), go on a balloon ride in Siena or have a canoeing or kayaking adventure in Lago Trasimeno (staff can arrange any of the activities mentioned above).

Local restaurants

Wood-panelled walls, arched brick ceiling, crisp white linen and candelight: La Solita Zuppa (+39 0578 21006; www.lasolitazuppa.it) on Via Porsenna in Chiusi is a romantic setting for antipasti, pinci and Chianti. The osteria sticks to the traditional dishes of the region – minus some of the duck fat – aiming for modern but authentic Tuscan cuisine. Osteria del Teatro (+39 0575 630556; www.osteria-del-teatro.it) on Via Maffei in Cortona, Arezzo, has a dining room that dates back 500 years, a cosy feel and an intriguing menu: try chicory-and-ricotta-stuffed pasta, gnocchi with duck and rosemary, or artichoke risotto. There are some wildcards too: pork fillets with coffee and apple, or pigeon with black cherries, for example. If you like the idea of eating in a mediaeval convent’s former prison, head to La Frateria di Padre Eligio (+39 0578 238261; www.lafrateria.com) at Convento di San Francesco Cetona in Chiusi. The menu is hand-written, bread is baked daily, the olive oil is milled using old millstones – basically, it’s all pretty darn authentic.

Reviews

Photos Poggio Piglia reviews
Ruth Crilly

Anonymous review

By Ruth Crilly, A model arbiter

The view from our room at Poggio Piglia is the kind of view that makes you incapable of thinking in anything other than clichés. It’s just perfect. Rolling Tuscan hills, green and lush, the scenery looking as though it hasn’t changed since the Romans trod their way across, laying roads and being annoyingly industrious in a way that will put future historical eras to shame.

‘I feel like Ridley Scott’s Gladiator,’ says Mr Smith. ‘Apart from the fact that I’m not a father to a murdered son or a husband to a murdered wife.’ Ignoring the other glaring differences, I leave Mr Smith to unpack his sandals, shield and harpoon and take a little tour around our room, poking into drawers and cantering around the gargantuan bathroom with its two-person soaking tub and what could only be described as a ‘party’ shower. Everything is impeccably styled – the old wooden beams and thick stone walls feel elegant rather than rustic; the neutral colour palette and the simple, stark lines of the furniture make it feel as though you could be in a brand new room, rather than one that has sat in the hotel’s solid, fortress-like building for hundreds of years.

A long, greenery-flanked gravel road unfurls its way up to the elegant Tuscan casale. This is a place with grown-up charm: staff are thin on the ground (pleasingly so) and effortlessly efficient; bold contemporary art decorates rooms; there’s an airy little style-conscious restaurant with Philippe Starck furniture, and green, green gardens planted with fragrant herbs and wild flowers. Our room has its own private entrance and exterior stone staircase and I find Mr Smith, aka Maximus Decimus Meridius, poised and alert at the top of the steps, scanning the landscape as though on the lookout for approaching danger. Beneath us, the acres of hotel-owned vineyards and olive trees look tempting for a leisurely amble, but in the heat of the afternoon it is the cool, mirrored surface of the infinity pool that calls to us the loudest and so we don the appropriate attire and make our way down to claim a pair of sunloungers.

Shamefully, it is here that we spend much of the following 24 hours, breaking only for a fine and jolly multi-coursed dinner in the restaurant and the kind of heavy, dreamless sleep session that can only be achieved after generous helpings of full-bodied Chianti. Finally, guilt-ridden that we are snoozing and sun-lounging away our time in Tuscany, we decide that we must move from Poggio Piglia and have some kind of adventure.

‘Where to?’ says Mr Smith.
‘Oh,’ I say from beneath the cool flannel I have placed over my face, ‘I don’t know. You decide.’
Which is how I find myself, pale and distinctly nauseous, standing beside something called a ‘Judas Cradle’ (look it up) at the Museo Delle Torture in Montepulciano – yup, you got it, the Torture Museum. The hilltop town of Montepulciano is one of those ancient, narrow-streeted places that has you taking a photograph every three seconds and saying things like ‘Cathy/Auntie Beatrice/Dave and Karen would love it here’; yet Mr Smith is happy to spend over an hour examining various spiky mediaeval poles and chained implements, pressing his face to the glass display cabinets with a kind of horrified glee.
‘I find it absolutely fascinating,’ he says, and then, seemingly unaware of my near-to-vomiting status, suggests that we go and get ourselves some dinner.

To my surprise, he has pre-Googled places to eat near Montepulciano and we head towards the restaurant that rates number one in all of the listings, an old converted stable with lots of atmosphere and good, attentive service. But would it be unkind to declare just how much better the dinner was at Poggio Piglia the previous night? Because at Poggio Piglia (one can never have Pod-jo Pea-lia roll off the tongue too many times), chef Salvatore’s food was fresh and colourful and bursting with flavour. Plates of pink meats and creamy, oozing cheeses and hearty portions of pasta with things like wild boar ragu and shavings of Parmesan and black truffle. One delightful dish after another, served with glasses of deep, coma-inducing red wine and friendly chatter.

And so as we sit in romantic Montepulciano, discussing the practicalities of death by flaying, we wish that we were back at Poggio Piglia, our imposing stone fortress of a temporary home, kicking back in the reading room with the smell of lavender drifting in through the window and the sounds of dinnertime conversation hanging in the night air. Fortunately, it’s less than a half an hour drive back to the hotel and we are home just as the last of the Poggio Piglia diners are finishing off their nightcaps. It occurs to us, as we climb our little outside staircase, that Poggio Piglia is a place that – on a short break, at least – you don’t really need to leave. It has food, it has a pool and it has that all-important place to put down your head and plummet into a deep and rejuvenating sleep. In our case, a modern four-poster bed swathed with little wisps of white curtain; neatly furnished with plump pillows and crisp, cool sheets. There’s even a sachet of lavender from the garden, just to help us on our way, though with the various culinary indulgences of the evening it’s hardly necessary. We are asleep in our chic, Tuscan residence within minutes, dreaming of chariot races and hooded executioners and Russell Crowe.
 

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith hotel or villa, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Poggio Piglia’s Guestbook below.

We loved

Everything about this hotel, ideally located for a visit to the Tuscany villages and vineyards. We had a deluxe room, which was well equipped, bright and modern with a large en suite bathroom and shower. The chef provided beautifully cooked Italian cuisine and the buffet style breakfast had a delicious selection of eggs, cakes, pastries etc. The staff were attentive and special mention should be made of Fiorella on the desk who assisted in our plans; she is also responsible for the excellent wine produced in their vineyard. We also met the owners who are a delightful friendly family who ensure the high quality of this hotel. Well recommended.

Don’t expect

Restaurants within walking distance but good local food in Chiusi.

Rating

Stayed on 3 Oct 2018

We loved

Our stay at Poggio Piglia was the highlight of our three-week European vacation. From the moment we arrived we could feel relaxation seeping into our bones. The quiet hilltop with picturesque views of the rolling Tuscan hills was stunning. The property itself is gorgeous: stylish but rustic, warm but posh. Staff were lovely and accommodating and the food was excellent! Our room was very comfortable and the estate's wine was delicious. Overall a phenomenal stay if you're looking for a quiet and romantic getaway in Tuscany; very close to several towns, including Montepulciano and Cortana.

Don’t expect

There isn't a spa at this hotel, but we still found it incredibly relaxing. Don't expect a lively nighttime experience as the hotel offers dinner until about 9:30/10pm and then it's pretty quiet. There are only 9 rooms in the main house and 2 villas so it is very small.

Rating

Stayed on 27 Sep 2018

We loved

Fabulous private room away from the main building-so quiet. Beautiful gardens. Lovely terrace outside the main restaurant- we enjoyed a delicious dinner there – their Poggio Piglia wine is delicious. Fantastic lady on reception gave wonderful advice on things to do in the local area- especially her advice for her home town of Bagno Vignoni.

Don’t expect

Bedroom smelt of damp on first entering. Unclear if hadn't been used for a while and was just musty, but not the best fan in the bathroom.

Rating

Stayed on 22 Sep 2018

We loved

The beautiful setting, the food and the hotels home-produced wine! The hotels wine tasting and tour of the vineyard and olive groves was a real highlight.

Don’t expect

Luxury or much in the way of service – this hotel is rustic and very informal with a DIY attitude.

Rating

Stayed on 8 Sep 2018

We loved

We loved how beautiful it was. We stayed in the dependent suite. It was lovely and very modern.

Don’t expect

You need a car as its tucked away from the main areas.

Rating

Stayed on 13 Aug 2018

We loved

Loved location, diving up to the hotel with surrounding vineyards along a tree lined 400m gravel driveway, the villa is great, dining area and alfresco dining area, surrounding olive trees, jasmine, lavender, and rose. The pool is amazing. All local towns are fun to visit and explore. Acquacheta in Montepulciano for lunch was great, Tuscany Divine and La Patriaca in Chiusi for dinner were great. If you love wine definitely worth travelling to Montepulciano and Montalcino.

Don’t expect

Menu is a little limited, would be nice to have been more extensive along with the wine list, but there are food options no further than 2km if you stay for more than a few nights and want more diversity.

Rating

Stayed on 9 Jun 2018

We loved

Everything about our experience. Lovely staff, great food and a wonderful setting.

Don’t expect

Lively nightlife.

Rating

Stayed on 11 Apr 2018

We loved

The location – a peaceful haven. We loved La Tartare Cicuna e Vini restaurant in Chiusi Scala. Away from the old town but well worth seeking out for great food and excellent service.

Don’t expect

A nightcap at the bar.

Rating

Stayed on 20 Oct 2017

We loved

The hotel was amazing and picturesque – what you would think of for a beautiful Tuscan villa. The staff was very helpful and friendly, their recommendations were spot on. Tuscany Divine down the street was recommended to us by a friend and it didn't disappoint. It's a fixed menu with multiple dishes, all for a reasonable price. Enjoy!

Don’t expect

To get anywhere without a car; this property is pretty secluded and there's nothing within an reasonable walking distance.

Rating

Stayed on 13 Oct 2017

We loved

The gardens and location.

Rating

Stayed on 6 Oct 2017

We loved

The property and staff, both lovely.

Rating

Stayed on 22 Sep 2017

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