Octant Furnas

Worth getting out of bed for

São Miguel – the largest and most populous island of the remote and only recently attention-nabbing Azores archipelago – has the nickname the ‘green isle’, and this is no lie. But, it doesn’t quite capture just how ravishingly verdant it is, especially in the Furnas Valley where the hotel rests, nor how alive it is, with its prehistoric smoking pits, hydrangea-strewn hills, lakes in volcanic craters and waterfalls dramatically cascading into deep-blue waters. It’s an adventure waiting to happen, starting in the hotel’s spa, or perhaps the 10-minute walk to Terra Nostra Gardens, famous for its restorative springs (they may look a little murky, but don’t be afraid to dip in) and its coating of ruby-red camellias. And all this uninterrupted wildness welcomes furred and feathered creatures, plus pods of whales and dolphins who breach close to the shore. Luckily, this corresponds with high season on the island (April through to June), and the hotel will sail you out with a guide and snacks to learn about the 27 cetacean species and try to spy them in their hangout spots. Twitchers will be thrilled too, with around 400 recorded species of birds across the archipelago to tick off. And watching is at its best from September to April, when the Azores become a sort of meeting point for migrating birds from Europe and the Americas, and the Indian and Pacific oceans. ​​To the northwest, the Ribeira dos Caldeirões natural park is a spectacular leafy expanse with brilliant sprinklings of wildflowers and waterfalls spilling forth over rocky outcrops. The brave can be strapped into a harness to rappel down the naturally sculpted rock faces on a canyoning expedition. And, for another panoramic perspective, kayak along the coast, and out to islet Vila Franca do Campo, stopping for a picnic at a secret bay, beach or grotto; or drift along on a stand-up paddleboard. Resident skipper Pedro will take you out to sea to learn a little about his hometown and try some regional treats – sausage, cheeses, pé de Torresmo (a local pork pâté), tuna and wines – or head out later to watch Caribbean-calibre sunsets. You can try your hand at fishing for native grouper too, with some help from those who’ve been doing it for generations. Tour around Ponte Delgada, the island’s capital, by bike – with its whitewashed buildings and terracotta roof tiles it feels very cosmopolitan and has restaurants and bars where you can pause for a break. Document your wanderings – and give your Insta-boyfriend a rest – by having a professional follow you round and candidly snapping away on a photo tour. And, there are some more unique culinary customs to explore while you’re here, such as making traditional cozido stew in boilers placed in a volcanic lagoon, or diving to boil an egg underwater using thermal currents. Or you could simmer yourself in the hotel spa’s hot springs, which are rich in iron (hence the ox-blood hue). But if things get a bit too steamy, you can always time out on Ribeira Quente, a sandy curve with emerald mountains aft and aquamarine waters to the fore.

Local restaurants

The Azores islands share the mainland’s affection for buttery cheeses, rugged hunks of cured meats and fresh-as-can-be seafood, but being more than 1,000 kilometres offshore, they’ve picked up their own culinary peccadillos. For one, the wines on the island are largely white, pineapples (first grown for decoration until the residents realised they could eat them) pop up more than you think, and that queijo platter will come with muffin-like bolo levedo breads and tangy pepper or almond jam. Plus, meaty stews go down a storm. Close to the hotel is A Quinta, an airy open-to-the-elements spot where you can enjoy a bowl of hot-spring-warmed cozido (stew), which steams away for six hours before being served. In Ponte Delgada, you can taste the traditional at A Tasca restaurant: collard greens soup, pork and steak bifanas, breads and cheeses, followed by yam pudding or pineapple cake. And for coastal dining, head north to Tuká Tulá on Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara – a very laidback, alfresco dining spot where the limpets (another Azorean specialty) are delicious. Fish takes precedence, but there are plenty of vegan options too and fruity cocktails to knock back.

Local bars

Octant Furnas is liveliest when it comes to its landscape, so you’ll need to head into Ponte Delgada for drinks and dancing. Book a session at the Gin Library, which has the largest collection of gins in Europe, and be sure to get enthusiastic owner Ali to mix you something with the local fixings. And Raiz’s shabby-chic dressing sets it apart from the beachfront bars, come on Friday or Saturday for cocktails, live blues and a convivial atmosphere. You’ll need some stamina – the party kicks off at 11pm and finishes around 5am.