Nostos Serifos

Worth getting out of bed for

As photogenic in places as its Cyclades sibling Santorini, secluded Serifos remains largely the preserve of in-the-know Athenian weekenders and curious island-hoppers from nearby Milos and Paros. For now, at least. Such off-grid isolation practically begs you to do…nothing. And that’s certainly an option here, with somewhere north of 70 distinct beaches wrapped around 80 kilometres of rugged coastline, all within your grasp. The soft golden sands of Livadakia and Avlomonas beaches are among the nearest to the hotel, as well as being some of the best-equipped for day-long lounging. There are bars and tavernas here to help keep your ouzito cocktail topped up; a handful even offer sunloungers and parasols for rent – more of a rarity on this unpolished Cycladean gem of an island than you might imagine. Seek out seclusion, surf and relative solitude slightly further afield along the wide, sweeping curve of Ganema Beach, or head north to Sikamia, where the general absence of fellow beach bods might just make you believe you’ve just stepped into your very own private picture postcard.

Serifos’s wild, gorse-carpeted landscapes are manna for photographers, all sugarcube houses, cerulean-blue chapel domes, balconies festooned with pink and purple bougainvillaea, and sleepy village plazas dotted with traditional tavernas. You’ll find all this and more in the island’s hillside-clinging capital of Chora. While away an hour or two watching the world go slowly by from an ouzeria on Pano Piazza, the almost ethereal beauty of which is liable to bring a tear to a glass eye. From there, it’s just a short but sweaty uphill shamble to confess your sins at the Church of Agios Konstantinos, the highest and arguably most beautiful spot in town, with views that stretch all the way to the neighbouring islands of Sifnos and Kythnos on a clear day. Don’t forget to don your darkest glasses against the dazzling glare of Chora’s tumbledown whitewashed houses below.

Local restaurants

Nostos Serifos’s location in the busy port town of Livadi puts you within strolling distance of the island’s entertainment and nightlife hub. But let’s not get carried away: we're talking Captain Corelli’s Kefalonia rather than, say, Faliraki or Malia, with a laidback yacht club and several low-key bars and tavernas, many open all day long. Get your Greek on at Kalis, where the seafood tastes so fresh you’ll swear it jumped straight from the Aegean onto the grill not 10 minutes ago. Expect Cyclades-inspired flavours in everything from the homemade sourdough and tzatziki to sweet sea bass ceviche and moreish mussels saganaki with Greek feta and herbs. Bag a table on the terrace overlooking Livadi waterfront for the win.

Over at Robinson – named after the eponymous hero of Daniel Defoe’s shipwreck adventure – casual dining is the order of the day. Tuck into tasty Greek classics and salads downstairs or hit up the rooftop bar where you can pair authentic Italian pizza with some of the best cocktails and harbour views in town. As the sun (and that second margarita) goes down, you might find yourself wishing you could be cast away here for good.

Local bars

Yacht Club Serifos is something of a Livadi institution. And it’s easy to see why. A pretty pale blue exterior complete with elevated sun terrace overlooks the harbour. Meanwhile inside it’s all funky bar stools, checkerboard floors and curated playlists that alter to suit the mood as the day progresses. Arrive for a late breakfast of omelette with feta, ham and tomato paired with strong Greek coffee and stick around to watch elderly locals who’ve been coming here for decades battle it out for the day’s backgammon crown. In the evening, this laidback hangout transforms into a buzzing bouzoukia, drawing cool crowds with live music and more expertly crafted cocktails than you can shake, well, a cocktail shaker at. There’s been a taverna in this location for nearly a century – so don’t be surprised if the Yacht Club is still here knocking out its knockout blood orange and cinnamon cocktails in another 100 years.

Hit up Serifos capital Chora for drinks with a view and a half. To Balconi is perfectly placed for quenching the thirst of those brave and perspiring souls who’ve walked up the hill to get here. As the name suggests, this chilled bar by the local Folklore Museum has a balcony. And, oh, what a balcony it is. Step out with your large glass of ice-cold local moschofilero wine to pair its floral and citrus notes with showstopping panoramas that take in Chora town, the neighbouring island of Sifnos, and everything else in between.