Mharo Khet

While many of us tended to our houseplants in the pandemic, Rajnush Agarwal took things a step further. The Rajasthan-raised, Oxford-educated biomedical engineer started growing plants in the desert — no easy feat. Not one to stop there, after transforming his family’s aloe-vera estate into a successful sustainable farm, he set about launching a farm-led fine-dining restaurant — and now a 10-cottage hotel completes the mix at Mharo Khet, located in the Thar Desert.

After crossing arid plains on dusty roads from Jodhpur to reach our destination, the lush green haven of Mharo Khet is a surprising and welcome relief — and a different universe to the bustling Blue City with its tangle of indigo-hued streets that’s just 45 minutes away. 

As the sun sets over the property, we take a tour of the farm with Mharo Khet’s owner and get the aforementioned backstory of this lockdown project. He tells us how, along with his co-founder wife and their team, they have managed to grow over 110 crops on the 40-acre farm, despite the desert conditions. An ambitious and impressive project that took seven deep wells, smart drip irrigation and greenhouse-style buildings that do the opposite of their normal task — keeping crops in the shade and cool. As we walk around the farm, every corner is a tasting opportunity. Juicy guavas straight from the tree, baby sweetcorn so delicious you can eat it raw like a carrot and peppery rocket that blows your mouth off. 

We quickly work up an appetite and luckily dinner at Paeru, the hotel’s signature restaurant, is calling. Here, pomp and ceremony are foregone. Instead, ingredients are placed centre stage, with the monthly changing menu taking over 90 per cent of its ingredients straight from the farm and plates served by local women dressed in their own Rajasthani saris. 

We are led through a guava orchard cloaked under the desert darkness to a table lit by a string of lanterns, the soft glow of other tables just about visible between the trees. The nine-course menu is inspired by the nine stages of life, from the ‘wonder of childhood’ to ‘the nightcap of eternity’, with playful touches such as the ‘mid-life crisis’ course served on a plate cracked into two. The experience takes us around the world, with highlights including a delicious melon crudo with coconut ají verde inspired by the chef’s time eating at Peruvian restaurants in New York; and a divine mushroom yakitori that borrowed flavour notes from Japan. 

Making our way back to our cottage along the winding paths through the crops, we are comforted to be led by a member of the Mharo Khet team with a torch. While the property is perfectly walkable, its organic layout means it can be a little confusing to navigate. Come morning, it’s easy to understand why. Our cottage, like all 10, has been cleverly positioned to have two outdoor decks, one pointing to the sunrise and one to the sunset. Or, as the general manager pointed out, one for coffee, one for beer — a suggestion we took seriously. 

The large proportions of these terracotta cuboid structures — 'cottage' feels like an undersell for them — provide plenty of space for relaxing across the bedroom, lounge and ginormous bathroom. Local craftsmanship touches every aspect, from the wooden furniture and jute rugs to the curios that line the shelves. Meanwhile, white terrazzo floors lead to tall glass sliding doors that open up to those aforementioned decks, complete with rocking chairs. These decks call for an afternoon whiled away with a book, and that we did. 

While the Mharo Khet team can organise a whole host of activities on- and off-site, from sound-healing and cooking classes to private tours of local historical sites, the energy of the place really calls you to slow down — whether that’s in your cottage, by the beautiful pool or simply taking time to really enjoy the bounty of produce on your doorstep with the many multi-course meals.  

At Samaa, the all-day dining concept, we feast on Keralan mango curry and cocktails with garden-fresh garnishes, such as the Shahtoot with dill-infused gin, vermouth and orange bitters. Meanwhile poolside, fresh salads and juices are the order of the day — the crispy sweet potato, marinated satay tofu and seasonal greens bowl was a particular favourite. At breakfast, there’s a dizzying choice of à la carte dishes, with the lassi yoghurt bowl a real hit, and a bread basket containing some of the best pastries I've tried in India. 

Looking out over the fields of green while enjoying our final leisurely breakfast, I am grateful for the pause Mharo Khet prompted — and feel inspired to plant a few more tomatoes when I get back home.