Puglia, Italy

Masseria Trapanà

Rates from (inc tax)$247.41

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (21EUR), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.


Restored rural retreat


Pared back Puglia

Elegantly updated 16th-century Masseria Trapanà hotel in rural Puglia is a luxe romantic retreat. Minimalist, sunshine-filled suites boast al fresco baths for two, greenery surrounds the peaceful pool and field-to-fork menus draw on bountiful kitchen gardens. After your Baroque-and-roll archi-tour of Lecce or hipster-beach-club hangout day, you’ll return via rolling olive groves to laze together in a hammock…


Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

A bottle of olive oil from the hotel's own grove, and a Pugliese cookery class with the chef for Smiths staying three nights or more in October


Photos Masseria Trapanà – Puglia – Italy

Need to know


Nine, including eight suites.


11.30am but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 2pm (or sooner, subject to availability).


Double rooms from $247.41 (€227), excluding tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €2.00 per person per night on check-out.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 21 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR250.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates include a Continental breakfast (plus eggs cooked to order on request).


Don’t miss the weekly movie night at the pool throughout summer – your chance to float on a lilo, sundowner in hand, as romance or drama fills the silver screen beyond.

Hotel closed

Annually from 1 November until Easter.

At the hotel

Six gardens laden with citrus trees (including a yoga garden and a games garden with pétanque and croquet), treatment room, personal training, bi-annual weekly cookery courses, free WiFi throughout. In rooms: satellite television (Sky), Bose sound system, USB points, Aesop products, White Company room fragrances, free bottled water, hair dryers, air-conditioning, working fireplaces and underfloor heating, blackout curtains.

Our favourite rooms

All but two rooms (the Brown courtyard room and the Corner Suite) have al fresco baths on little private patios where you can soak together as the sunlight dapples through the trees (the Corner Suite has an al fresco shower but no bath). We love the four-poster beds in the minimalist suites plus the contrast between the hidden-away contemporary tech and the weathered old wardrobes and other rough-hewn bric-a-brac bits of furniture. Trapanà North appeals for its secret little staircase, deckchairs and private dining on the terrace. The Melograno Suite is beautiful and private, so-called for its melograno (pomegranate) tree in the garden. A little gate leads directly to the pool.


Take a dip in the unheated saltwater infinity pool with roman steps. Set in a little walled garden, it’s an idyllic spot for lounging under shady plum trees on the oversized beds.


One treatment room offering massage using Aesop oils (also bookable in your room or in any of the gardens).

Packing tips

Paperbacks and iPods are de rigueur for all that hammock time. You can skip the headgear, though: the masseria gets full marks for the poolside hat rack loaded with big floppy sunhats for guests.


A perfectly chilled glass of crisp Veuve awaits on your arrival. Please note: from April 2017 the hotel will be for adults only.


Small and medium dogs are welcome to stay at no charge and bedding and bowls are provided. See more pet-friendly hotels in Puglia.


Over-12s and under-2s are welcome year round, and during mid-term breaks the hotel is open to all ages. Public areas are accessible for buggies and rooms can be furnished with cots, and an assortment of big ticket baby swag – just ask.


All materials for the extensive restoration of this 16th-century masseria were locally sourced. You’ll find seasonal, organic produce in the hotel kitchen (much of it grown at the Trapanà itself) and eco-friendly products in the bathrooms. Waste water is reused in the olive groves and garden waste is composted.

Food and Drink

Photos Masseria Trapanà – Puglia – Italy

Top Table

Overlooking the orchard and surrounded by gnarly fruit trees, the main terrace is a favourite spot for either an Aperol and antipasto or full-monty candlelit dinner à deux.

Dress Code

Think floaty, cool and crisp linen rather than dressing for dinner. Wedges, not stilettos.

Hotel restaurant

Staff are at your beck and call serving typical Puglian cucina povera, much of it provided field-to-fork from the hotel’s kitchen gardens. Peppery olive oil is delicious and omnipresent, pressed directly from the surrounding groves. Opt to eat on the restaurant terrace or by the pool - the general idea is for guests to relax and dine at hours that match their holiday mood. Lunch and dinner are served daily on the terrace and the waiter service poolside is between 11am and 4pm.

Hotel bar

Order a signature Trapanà Sunset (vodka shaken with blood orange) in a garden hammock, at the pool or on the terrace – there isn’t an out-and-out destination bar at the hotel but every corner invites lounging, drink in hand.


Last orders

Breakfast from 7.30am, lunch (1–3pm), dinner (8–11pm).

Room service

A pared back menu centres on burgers and simple pasta.


Photos Masseria Trapanà – Puglia – Italy
Masseria Trapanà
Strada Provinciale 236 Surbo/Casalabate (2km)
Surbo, Lecce


Brindisi airport is half an hour by car; hotel transfers are easily arranged at a cost of EUR80. Bari airport is 1 hour 40 minutes away (transfers EUR170).


Lecce station is 10 minutes away with direct trains to Bari, Rome and Milan. Hotel transfers cost EUR30.


Follow the signs for Lecce from Brindisi airport onto Route SS613. After about 35km, take the exit signed Trepuzzi and immediately afterwards, turn left towards Torre Rinalda. The road takes you over the motorway. After another 2km, turn right following the signs for Surbo-Lecce. Continue straight for 3.5km and you’ll see a discreet orange sign for Masseria Trapanà on your right and a large green gate. The track beyond takes you directly to the hotel, where you’ll find ample parking.

Worth getting out of bed for

Picturesque Puglia is awash with pretty port towns and rich centro storicos such as Lecce’s, packing Baroque churches and crumbling Roman ruins tucked down age-old winding alleys. White-washed Otranto, is a historic seaside town 40 minutes by car from the Masseria Trapanà – perfect for an Insta-ramble with a smartphone and a gelato. Further afield sit Alberobello - a Unesco world heritage site thanks to its tumbledown trulli houses - plus Santa Maria di Leuca, the most south-easterly tip of Italy’s boot, with its soaring lighthouse. Ostuni, the ‘white city of Puglia’, is one of the region’s top draws for fine dining.

Lecce itself is also lovely for souvenir shopping. Upscale bookstore-cum-deli Gusto Liberrima stocks pasta, bottles of prosecco and olio and a good selection of cookbooks so you can recreate your own cucina povera back home. Find a fashion fix at White 7 – one of Italy’s most beautiful boutiques stocking the nation’s loftiest labels including Armani, Roberto del Carlo and Etro alongside Burberry, Berwich and Belstaff and many other international namesUpscale jewellers Mossa Gioiellerie stocks watches as well as a good selection of souvenir sparkles.


Local restaurants

Laidback and lovely deli Doppio Zero serves up cut-above but casual, day-long dining at long communal tables. Inside is contemporary and minimalist, with old crates repurposed as shelving and bright pendant lamps made from upcycled old vino bottles. The front courtyard sticks to oversized parasols, twinkling lights after dark and a more traditional dining ambiance. Foodwise, think salumi, loaded focaccia or ravioli made fresh in-house and plated up with a little razzmatazz. Tues-Sunday 8am-midnight. A fully functioning farm and bountiful kitchen garden form the natural larder for the brilliant field-to-fork restaurant at the heart of Masseria Melcarne. Olives, barley and wheat are cultivated alongside an enviable variety of fruit and veg; livestock are reared in the open fields. Carne and risotti don’t come fresher than this and there’s a little shop where you can buy olive oil, fruit jams and pastries to take home. 


Local cafés

Beach bar and cafe Punta della Suina offers a quirky, all-natural take on sunbathing with loungers and parasols set out on a wildflower-flecked rocky promontory surrounded by lapping waves (as well as more traditional loungers on the adjacent sand).  About half an hour from the Trapanà, the lido is a local favourite for a laze in the sun followed by a bowl of pasta. There’s a chillout soundtrack and views across the shimmering bay to Gallipoli.


Local bars

Manicured hotel and beach bar Bacino Grande is about 35 minutes from the Trapanà. Pay for a lounger and parasol and you’ll get all the perks: changing rooms, plus wait staff padding up and down the uncrowded swathe of sand with cold beers, olives and mortadella-stuffed panini. A sundowner on the decking here, staring out at turquoise seas to a chillout soundtrack, is the perfect end to a day at the beach, before dinner back at the Masseria.



Photos Masseria Trapanà – Puglia – Italy

Anonymous review

Mr Smith used to be a Buddhist monk. When I tell anyone this, they tilt their heads suspiciously and assume I mean he spent a few days pretending to be a vegetarian at a retreat in Yorkshire. But it was no dabble, it was the real thing: when he was seventeen, he moved to Japan and signed himself up for a lifetime of chanting and meditating. He’s tried to tell me about it many times, but it isn’t until we arrive at Masseria Trapanà that I think I understand something of the allure of the quiet life. 
We arrive at Masseria Trapanà after a three-hour flight to Brindisi and a short taxi ride, where we are delivered to a high stone wall with an enormous, ancient wooden door that wouldn’t look out of place on the set of Game of Thrones. On the other side of the door is Guiseppe, who smiles so serenely upon seeing us that I wonder what he might have smoked for breakfast. It takes me a few minutes of looking around the grounds to understand: of course he’s blissed out, he gets to live here. He should actually be whooping loudly with joy – maybe he does that behind closed doors. In front of us, he speaks in quiet, hushed tones as he welcomes us to his home. 

And what a home it is. Masseria is the Puglian word for farmhouse, though if you’re expecting sheep, you’ll be sorely disappointed. Trapanà has been renovated into a modern, minimalist sanctuary that is all honeyed stone walls, plate glass and polished interiors. Giuseppe gives us a tour, starting with the croquet lawn, the infinity pool, the lemon groves, and the massive rectangular courtyard that dazzles in the sunshine. There is a small chapel near the entrance that’s been lovingly restored, its frescoes discovered under many layers of plaster. Front and centre is a painting of Santa Barbara, which enticed the owner, Rob, to buy the farmhouse in the first place: his mother’s name is Barbara.

The few guests we encounter – there are only nine suites, so the place is blissfully empty – wear the same serene expression as Giuseppe. One woman looks up from her hammock and gives us a knowing smile, as if to say, soon you too, will know such peace. I have trouble believing her. Mr Smith and I sent emails until the RyanAir flight attendant threatened to confiscate our phones, and even the half-hour taxi ride from Brindisi airport was cluttered with phone calls, text messages and anxious repartee with our colleagues. To put it mildly, Mr Smith and I have a small problem with slowing down.

But Masseria Trapanà wouldn’t let us have it any other way. Our suite, which we’ve named the ‘Smith Suite for the duration of our stay, has high vaulted ceilings, a tall four-poster bed and little else. There’s an outdoor bathtub and a lemon tree in the walled garden outside. Several hours after we arrive, I hear a soft thud. It’s a lemon, falling on the stone terrace, and I realise it’s the loudest thing I’ve heard since we arrived. I can’t quite believe it – am I hallucinating, or can the world really be that quiet? 

The common spaces echo the minimalism of our suite, everything in matching shades of honey and cream, which only makes the little flourishes stand out: the glass table balanced on a series of flat stones, the pile of squishy cushions covered in bright fabrics. A trough lines one side of the dining room, a slight nod to the Masseria’s roots. Whoever designed this place thought of everything – there is even a tiny door beside the toilet where the loo roll is stored, and a slightly larger one next to it that holds the thing you scrub the toilet with. ‘I don’t think they had Aesop toiletries and discreetly placed Bose speakers piping Chet Baker at the monastery,’ I say to Mr. Smith. ‘No,’ he laughs, ‘they didn’t.’

The following evening, we venture out to Lecce, the Baroque town that’s sometimes called the Florence of the South. It doesn’t disappoint: we gape at the mad gargoyles on the Basilica di Santa Croce, wonder at the perfect symmetry of the Piazza del Duomo, and end the evening with dinner at a restaurant recommended by Giuseppe, at which I sample the most delicious grilled prawns I have ever eaten. But none of it compares to the quiet hush of the Trapanà terrace, where you can eat under the twinkle of stars and enjoy the breeze as it whistles past the stone walls. We hurry back to hotel and spend the rest of our stay swimming, lounging on the hammock, and listening to lemons falling from the trees. And yes, on our flight home, we are still wearing those blissful, zen expressions on our faces.

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Masseria Trapanà’s Guestbook below.

We loved

The relaxed, friendly attentive service, not to mention the beautiful peaceful surroundings. Recommend Le Zie restaurant in Lecce. 

Don’t expect

Easy access to nightlife.


Stayed on 17 Aug 2016

We loved

Rob, Giuseppe, the team. Rustic luxury. Recommend Corte Dei Pandolfe restaurant in Lecce. Try the Graticciaia Vallone 2011 wine!

Don’t expect

To stay in the Masseria all the time as there's much to see in Puglia but it feels great to return at the end of the day.


Stayed on 22 Jun 2016

We loved

Everything - this place is essentially Narnia. Now back at my desk in drizzly London, I keep closing my eyes and imagining I am back there, languidly plucking mulberries from the tree by the croquet lawn, all around me the sound of bees humming and leaves rustling in the breeze, and Mr Smith swearing virtuosically as he misses his shot again. We had the most perfect holiday here, spending some of our days drifting happily about the hotel and the others pootling around Salento in our hire car. The hotel itself is completely exquisite, its peaceful and private, without feeling remote or unfriendly, the food is consistently excellent, and our Garden Suite was airy and spacious and as comfortable as any hotel room Ive stayed in. The gardens are beautiful and abundant in an understated way that reminded me of the prettiest English gardens (but with way more lemons). Rob has created a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere without compromising on service - we really felt well looked after. 100% recommended.

Don’t expect

A spa (yet).


Stayed on 28 May 2016

We loved

The whole place - it is a fabulous and beautifully furnished newly refurbished/built Masseria Hotel with a lovely pool and grounds. We were made to feel at home by Rob and his staff who also gave us great service. The food was outstanding - the best we had on our trip. Lecce is a fabulous city close by.

Don’t expect

Lively nights or a spa, though some massage and other treatments are available.


Stayed on 15 May 2016

We loved

Wonderfully restored masseria. Our North Suite was huge with a lounge and balcony, beautiful bedroom with very high ceilings and a gorgeous bathroom with glass fronted shower looking out on the lemon groves and an outdoor bath on the balcony. Wonderful Aesop bath products and luxurious towels. Everything of the best. Rob the owner is really helpful with excellent restaurant tips. The staff can't do enough for you - whenever you want lunch they don't mind. Wonderful quiet relaxing gardens and a great croquet lawn. Lovely pool. Really quiet. Pampering at its best. Local recommendations: Masseria Mercane is local food at amazing prices. Le Zie in Lecce is a small homely restaurant. Like eating in someone's house, must book. Small excellent menu, very cheap. Really good food.

Don’t expect

Great night life


Stayed on 14 May 2016

We loved

Absolutely everything. Trapana is a rare and true delight. A secluded honey-hued orange-blossom scented haven, where lazy days can be spent lounging by the idyllic pool, devouring the fabulous food under the lemon trees, and sipping Trapana cocktails in the generous hammocks dotted through the gardens. When the inclination for activity strikes, grab a bicycle and head into the surrounding olive groves, weaving your way through long forgotten trullos, beautifully gnarled old olive trees, and colourful meadows. Nothing is too much for Rob and his team, who have managed to create the seemingly impossible: an ambiance that all at once oozes ultimate opulence, and yet assures you that you are wholeheartedly welcome, and right at home. Magical. Rob and his team have a number of fantastic recommendations for local restaurants, beautiful beaches, vineyards and excursions, and are always on hand and happy to provide suggestions and make bookings.

Don’t expect

To ever want to leave.


Stayed on 4 Apr 2016

We loved

The property and the attention to detail. The Trapana Family and the owner, Rob, are wonderful. Lecce is a gorgeous city. 10/10

Don’t expect

A beachfront location but who cares because the property is amazing.


Stayed on 28 Mar 2016

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