Manoir de Plaisance

If you’re reading this you’re most likely flirting with holiday mode. To me, that means the rare luxury of putting yourself first, and most importantly deep, deep, deep relaxation. The latter, of course, is usually never achieved.
 
So, now that we’re in holiday mode, I’d like to play a game. Games are for those rare moments of childlike optimism before the big monster grown-up me stomps all over it in an attempt to order the chaos. 
 
The game is ‘never have I ever’. Granted, it’s a game more associated with adolescent drinking games, but for those unfamiliar with the rules, the idea is simple: you admit to some sort of profound truth and then take a shot / reveal a body part / kiss someone etc. I’ll spare you the usual indignities and just get to it: never have I ever stayed in a hotel and not left the premises. Until now…

The whole point of a holiday in my mind is to use your digs as a strict base, and then head out all day to explore far and wide. The only reason to return to the hotel is to sleep. And hopefully, one is exhausted enough to sleep deeply until the next day – preferably after nine plus hours of shut-eye, when breakfast is ready.

But the fact remains: running around new destinations like a headless chicken, cramming as many Instagrammable moments into the day while consuming a zillion calories (most of them in liquid form) absolutely does not chime with my holiday goals of deep, deep, deep relaxation. Which is why Manoir du Plaisance (rather pleasantly) stopped me in my tracks. And I’m still trying to understand why.

The journey from the UK was easy enough. Train to plane. Plane to hire car. Short skip from La Rochelle, and we were there. Very quick. La Rochelle is just 30 minutes away, but Bordeaux and Nante airports are no more than a couple of hours drive away, too, so there are three airports to choose from. The drive up to the house is a delight. Discreetly tucked away within a heavy forest, Manoir de Plaisance is like discovering a hidden treasure. This chocolate box pile reveals itself seductively, framed by ancient trees and a gorgeous lake with peacocks sauntering around the grounds. Truly chocolate box!

My shoulders instantly unknotted. But what about my partner, the hard-to-please Yorkshireman? I flicked him a glance and, oh my, the slightest hint of a smile. I love it when this happens because it saves me having to explain in agonising detail why he should like something (anything).

Entering the house, our most primal sense was captured by a soothing aroma. We immediately felt at home. Seconds later, we were greeted by one of the chirpy owners who welcomed us and helped with our luggage. The whole experience felt like staying with friends, but the grandest of friends with the most exquisite taste and impeccable manners. The type of friend you find even the smallest excuse to visit. The type of friend who will never remind you that you visit so frequently that you really should consider putting yourself on the electoral roll.

The philosophy at this place is: less is more. Cramming rooms into the available space is not the owners’ style. Instead, their approach is to consider deeply how guests feel. And they’re right: I would rather be surrounded by fewer people and have a much bigger space in which to swish my long scarf.

Although this is technically a b&b, the owners also cater for dinner – so long as you pre-book. The dining room is an intimate affair, for guests only. A quick ‘hello’ or ‘bonsoir’ to fellow guests, and we were seated at our table, drinking something sparkling.

The four-course menu and wine list would’ve been exceptional for any city-set French restaurant, but it was completely unexpected out here in the countryside. A few hours later, with full bellies, we retired to our oh-so-elegant aristocratic suite. And for once, we didn’t flick on the iPad to watch Newsnight; we went straight to sleep.

Remember that deep, deep, deep relaxation I was talking about? Well, nine hours later, and after a hearty breakfast, we went back to our room and slept a little more. Then woke up, had a long bath, and spent the rest of the day by the pool. This was the rhythm for the whole weekend: blissful, genteel elegance. 

In my line of work, I often get asked what luxury is. Or I hear a hundred different versions of what other brands think it is. But listen, this is it!

We contemplated leaving the hotel to explore, but the pull of deep relaxation was strong. Couple that with faultless service and mouth-watering plates, it’s a certainty that we’ll be going back.