Loire Valley Lodges

Worth getting out of bed for

When it comes to ways to pass the time here, you’ll be well and truly coaxed out of your tree – although if you choose to stay in it, you can slip into your spa tub, sightsee from your deck using the binoculars provided, play board games or just enjoy the silence in your hammock. Some activities require an open mind, such as ‘lyrical hikes’, where a small group heads out with Vincent Karche, a former tenor who lost his voice and regained it after spending time in nature, on a three-hour hike, where you’ll sing like a bird at the Douglas firs in search of catharsis, or a sensory immersion experience with a doctor and ‘sylvotherapist’, and sophrologist who uses a special method to help you breath easier, keep calm and – well – carry on. Forest bathing, where you simply stay quietly awhile in an embrace of trees, is overseen by a meditation expert (take note, some spontaneous singing and dancing may occur), or you can sit and be still on the bench encircling Sir Oak, the centuries-old tree close to the main barn. All these experiences need to be booked in advance of your stay. If this all seems a bit arbor-trary to you, then follow the art route instead, a literal trail through the forest where you’ll see the impressive works crafted on commission by the owner’s artist friends. You’ll see a monumental bronze by Venetian Matteo Le Greco, Jacques Bossier’s multicoloured cows, Michel Audiard’s 10-metre-long ant, a tricksy illusionary work by Pierre Marie Lejeune, and a giant Lost Dog statue by Aurèle, among others. There’s also hiking routes to lose yourself along and bikes to borrow for whizzing through the trees or jaunts out to dinky and delightful Esvres village, which has timbered houses, a few local shops and a church, or down to the banks of the Indre River for a picnic (the chef can prepare a bento box on request). Spa healing involves globe-spanning massage techniques and some more serious esthetic pampering, or you can seek peace of mind in the hotel’s arboretum, planted with any species from the 21 Celtic astrological trees that are missing in the forest; you can buy saplings for yourself in the boutique. Don’t forget to see if any talks or film screenings are scheduled to be held in the bar, too. Nearest town Tours is worth a visit for its landmark historic buildings, and other antique treasures: Gothic jewel St Gatien Cathedral, St Martin’s Basilica and the Opera house, whose staircase-made-for-dramatically-sweeping-down was inspired by Paris’ Opéra Garnier. Feast your eyes on more wall candy at modern-art museum Centre de Création Contemporaine Olivier Debré, or get merry at the Museum of the Vines and Wines just outside the city. And, of course, you can’t come to the Loire and avoid châteaux entirely – the hotel has skip-the-line tickets for some of the area’s grandest and most intriguing, including Chenonceau with its technically brilliant double-helix staircase; Italian-Renaissance-style Azay-le-Rideau; Amboise, where King Charles VIII died after hitting his head on a doorframe; Clos Lucé, where Da Vinci lived and worked (his inventions have been recreated in the gardens); turreted fortress Chaumont sur Loire, medieval wedding cake Chambord; and Cheverny, the inspiration for Tintin’s Marlinspike Hall.

Local restaurants

The restaurant at the lodges must be tried at least once, but its tasting menu doesn’t get shaken up too often, so if you’re looking for something a bit different, there are plenty of options close by. Château Belmont’s restaurant has a mightily romantic terrace and dishes plated with delicacy. Flavours are traditional but served in modern style, say snail ravioli with garlic cream, foie gras-stuffed squab, and crème brûlée with Grand Marnier mousse. In Tours, Le Bistrot des Belles Caves excels in both wining and dining; locals frequently frequent it for meals of scallops and sweetbreads, veal-jus-drizzled flank steak with chanterelles and a zingy citrus vacherin, and gluggable bottles to accompany. Michelin-recognised Le Saint-Honoré is housed in an utterly charming beamed 17th-century bakery, has a steady vegetable supply from the kitchen garden out back and serves up dishes that do the picturesque setting proud, say tempting parcels of croustillant de Saint-Jacques with girolles, duck breast with figs and orange vinegar, and pain perdu with caramel and eggnog cream. 

Local cafés

Café culture is thriving in this region, although while the brews are top-drawer, they could use a little work on their branding. For example, French Coffee Shop in Tours may sound so obvious as to be a front for something dodgier, but it’s actually a wood-lined retro space where the caffeine hits are strong. While in Orléans, Real Coffee Shop also sounds like it’s trying too hard to convince us, but we can testify that what pours forth from their La Marzocco machines is the real deal; and this is also a part-time rum bar.

Local bars

Tours’ bar scene doesn’t really set the night alight, so much so that a local favourite is an Irish pub called The Pale; but, with its friendly atmosphere, 40-strong whisky list, live music and darts competitions, you could certainly do worse.