Les Sources de Cheverny

Some days are just better than others. I was sitting on the deck of our lodge, sipping my coffee, reclining on the Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec-designed Pallisade chairs (they’ve been on my Pinterest board for years, and would definitely improve my tiny courtyard garden). I was watching the mist rise off the small lake in front of me, looking out for the black swan, enjoying the company of the birds having their morning conversations. Wrapped up in that peaceful moment, my mind was drifting to the magic of the day before.

It was the sort of day that I dream about: we’d spent a glorious springtime afternoon riding Pashley bicycles through the French countryside, enjoying pitstops of wine tastings and visiting the achingly beautiful Château de Cheverny. It was heavenly spinning through country lanes full of hawthorn in full bloom, its frothy blossom like the whipped chantilly cream on top of a Dame Blanche.

The day had started with a languorous breakfast buffet filled with the most buttery pastries, the freshest of breads and little pots of honey from Les Sources' bees that was fit for the gods themselves. Despatching Little Smith and Mr Smith for some ancient woodland exploring, I had taken myself off for a deeply invigorating massage in the spa. It seamlessly adjoins the fairy-tale limestone château, which is just one part of an enchanting estate, encompassing a beautiful selection of elegant lodges and converted stone buildings, all sitting in perfect harmony with one another. 

As you would expect from a Caudalie treatment, it was impeccable. The massage seemed to release all the tensions that I carry with me on a daily basis, but that’s just how we’re all juggling life isn’t it? Laying by the pool afterwards, with the expansive windows looking out onto the forest surrounding the property, I felt myself sink a little deeper into a place of calm. I didn’t even check my phone. 

But this had been the tone since our arrival at the sanctuary that is Les Sources de Cheverny. From the moment we turned off the main road into the drive that leads you through a woodland carpeted with wood anemones below the silver birches, welcoming you like a kindly friend, I could feel my breath go a little deeper and my shoulders drop a notch — and we hadn’t even checked in.

It’s a rare place that manages to make you feel like you’re a Hollywood star when you step out of your car with the various accoutrements of your Little Smith tumbling out behind you. The relief of not having to listen to Billy Joel’s ‘Uptown Girl' at top volume again, for what feels like the hundredth time that day, was written all over my face. (I must remember to have a word with Mr Smith and ask him why he ever thought it was a good idea to introduce a three-year-old to the dulcet tones of the Piano Man.)

Being greeted by the indefatigably charming Silvano and his colleagues on the front-of-house team was like being reunited with an old friend. The sort you just fall back into being with as though no time had passed. The reception is a relaxed and inviting space filled with buttery-soft Michel Ducaroy chestnut leather sofas, earth-toned ceramic lamps and a centerpiece wood-burning stove, which must be so cosy in the winter. The floor-to-ceiling windows — which rise to meet the wooden beams of the hunting-lodge-inspired space — give you a wraparound view of the grounds beyond. There are numerous shared spaces for guests to just be, including the airy drawing rooms of the petit-château, which is filled with a varied and deeply tasteful selection of objets that have been acquired over the years from brocantes and marché aux puces by owners Alice and Jérôme Tourbier. Every item feels just right, a perfect encapsulation of the French idea of l’art de vivre.

It’s impossible to go hungry or thirsty at Les Sources de Cheverny. There are two restaurants available to guests — the Michelin-starred Le Favori, which looks out over the lake, and invites you to dine immersed in the natural surroundings. We ate at the sister restaurant L’Auberge, the definition of country chic — the creamy, exposed limestone walls serving as an atmospheric backdrop to comforting yet elegant food focusing on the produce of the region. We’d started our evening with a perfect martini, and enjoyed conversations with the warm and knowledgeable sommelier Paul — there’s a focus on the outstanding regional vignerons, who share the same ethos around sustainability as Les Sources. The locally grown plump asparagus was so delicious that I wanted to order it again immediately; and for my Little smith, unending supplies of pasta and tender chicken, not to mention the hand-churned ice-cream, kept him very happy indeed. The synergy between the space, the producers and the surroundings was constantly evident.

My sleep after such a day was heaven. The hotel has huge beds with deep mattresses and pillows that feel like the hug of an old friend. The combination of immaculate design yet total comfort is often hard to deliver, but here it feels effortless. Nothing jars. The accommodation blends into the environment, so much so that you almost have no idea that there are even other guests here. Everything feels both totally private yet completely open all at the same time.

This is a hotel for all seasons, and, if you’re someone like me and you’re craving respite from a hectic world, then Les Sources de Cheverny's comfortable yet luxurious embrace in this corner of the Loire Valley will leave you feeling recharged and yearning to visit again immediately. Now, I just need to order those chairs to see if I can recreate the feeling at home…