The Alentejo reds will be free-flowing at L’And Vineyards in Portugal, but there’s much more than wine to enjoy at this east-of-Lisbon estate. Striking, sloping, all-white buildings perch on a pristine landscape of bright blue skies, green vines and the odd crumbling castle on a neighbouring hilltop. There’s a Caudalie spa, lawn-lined infinity pool and sleek suites with retractable stargazing-friendly roofs and fireplaces on the patios. Sundown is always going to be the most fun at a winery – and at this one, a hundred Tom Dixon lamps light the way at the marvellous, Michelin-starred restaurant.
Get this when you book through us:
A wine bottle with your name on the label and a presentation of the hotel's wines with local cheeses and meats
Noon, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in is 3pm, also flexible.
Double rooms from $207.75 (€189), excluding tax at 6 per cent.
Rates usually include breakfast.
Construction work on new villas is taking place around Villa Arinto for the foreseeable future. Noise disruption will be kept at a minimum, but guests will likely notice some yet-to-be-landscaped areas near the construction site.
At the hotel
Free WiFi throughout, tennis court, car park. In rooms: free bottled water, tea, TV, Nespresso coffee machine, minibar, air-conditioning and Caudalie bath products.
Our favourite rooms
The Sky View Suites get our vote for lots of reasons, but mostly the private plunge pools in their gardens, where you’ll also find a fire helpfully lit by the staff each evening as you enjoy a glass of wine. We also rate their bath tubs and roomy proportions. For even more space, book one of the multi-bedroom villas.
There’s a sunlounger-surrounded pool in the middle of the garden, and an adults-only one inside at the spa.
The Caudalie spa offers facials, massages and – natch – vinotherapy. There’s also a sauna and regular Pilates, yoga and fitness classes.
Bring an appreciation of fine food, even finer wine and crumbling castles.
The communal areas are accessible for wheelchair users and a couple of the ground-floor rooms have been specially adapted.
All ages are welcome, but the hotel is better suited to bigger Smiths (over-13s). Babysitting is available with a day’s notice for €20 an hour (€30 for two children). Little ‘uns are welcome in the bar, but the restaurant has a no-pushchairs policy.
Nab a table closest to the wide windows for a side order of garden and lake views with your supper.
Sculptural jewellery to match the multitude of shiny Tom Dixon lamps or pops of colour to change up the sleek white space.
A breakfast spread of local farm eggs, charcuterie, house-made bread, jams and pastries is served in the main restaurant. By night, it’s slicker than your average, and has a Michelin star to prove it. Gastronomic Portuguese food (largely local and organic) is given a Far Eastern flavour.
The bar has huge windows so you can admire the gardens at the same time as your goblet of Alentejo wines. Food is served between noon and 10pm, whether you fancy a snack (prosciutto platters) or fully fledged meal (a trad local tomato soup with poached egg and sausages). The Sky Lounge opens during the summer.
Breakfast is served between 8am and 11am. Dinner hours are 7pm to 9.30pm. The restaurant opens for lunch at the weekend (1pm to 2.30pm), and the bar hours are noon to midnight.
Steaks, sandwiches and the fish of the day can be delivered to your room on request.
Herdade das Valadas
Estrada Nacional 4 apartado 122
You’ll find these rows of grapes near the Alentejo town of Montemor-o-Novo, east of Lisbon.
The capital’s main airport is 100 kilometres away; the drive should take around 50 minutes. Hotel transfers cost €150 each way for two people.
The nearest rail station is Ventas Novos, 20 minutes away by car; from here, you catch Lisbon-bound trains (www.cp.pt).
It’s a five-minute drive to Montemor-o-Novo, and the estate is a little over an hour by car east of Lisbon. If you want to tour the other vineyards in the region (under the limit), your own set of wheels will come in handy. The hotel has a car park.
Worth getting out of bed for
Once you’ve imbibed a reasonable amount of the hotel’s output, you should probably head straight for the spa or pool, but if you are feeling more active, head up in a hot-air balloon, stargaze after sundown or tour the local villages. After that? More wine-tasting, obviously. The hotel can arrange guided tours to the walled, Unesco-celebrated city of Évora, a 30-minute drive east of the vineyard. Don’t miss the Temple of Diana, the 12th-century cathedral or the assorted baroque gems. If you just can’t get enough grape juice, visit another winery – Quinta do Quetzal has the added bonus of its own art gallery. For sandy Atlantic scenery, make the hour drive west to the coast and hit up the beautiful beaches of Comporta. The neighbouring town of Montemor-o-Novo is one of the highlights of the Évora district – be sure to check out the ruins of its ancient castle, which has been rebuilt over the centuries.
This is definitely a destination hotel, with the on-site establishments serving up the best food for miles and miles. But if you’re determined to eat further afield, head to Estremoz, a 50-minute drive east of the property, and try Gadanha for a delicious meal, with the chance to stockpile wine from its cellar and olive oil, cured meats and chocolate from its shop afterwards.
Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this wine hotel in Portugal and unpacked their fruity reds, a full account of their bucolic break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside L’And Vineyards in Alentejo…
An hour or so east out of Lisbon, into the Alentejo heartlands, L’And Vineyards sticks out like a sugarcube of grand design, and the only thing better than the clean white lines of this modern masterpiece is the bright blue backdrop and grassy green hills. In the distance, you can spy the town of Montemor-o-Novo, with the ruins of the castle on the hillside reminding you that things weren’t always so glossy and glassy. The hotel’s Brazilian architect employed stone, slate and wood, with unique artworks and statement pieces of furniture completing the contemporary look; many of the rooms have fire-toting terraces, but there are plenty of places to sit and enjoy a glass of homegrown red wine throughout the 66-hectare property and its flower-filled gardens, olive groves and vineyards. The wine may be the star of the show here, but the Michelin-starred menu at the restaurant does its best to compete. This is definitely one for the stretchy-waistband attire.
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