Ios Grand Pool Suites

Worth getting out of bed for

Ios Grand sits three kilometres around the coast from Chora (‘Hora’ in the local dialect), the focal point of the island. It’s a photogenic place – if you’ve ever seen one of those faded Greek island posters behind a kebab shop counter in a city like London or Melbourne, there’s a good chance that the photo is of Chora. Miniscule alleyways trace this way and that through ramshackle whitewashed homes reflecting the noon sun, draped elegantly in dazzling geranium and bougainvillea growing from every conceivable nook. Brave the heat to hike up past the four chapels to the Odysseas Elytis open-air theatre, designed in 1997 by Peter Haupt, Professor of Architecture at the University of Berlin. Even if you don’t catch one of the famous sunset performances, the views across the blue-domed chapels of Chora and to Mylopotas beach justify the sweat. It's an uphill grind to Chora from Ios Grand but it’s all downhill on the way back – a shuttle bus runs every 20 minutes in peak season and costs €2. Logophiles will want to visit to the Tomb of Homer in the northernmost part of the island, but owing to the plentiful bars, beach clubs and watersports at Mylopotas Beach, Mrs Smith understands why you’d never want to leave at all. Nonetheless, it’s worth making the short walk to the Museum of Modern Art to see the collection of painting, photography and sculpture by French philhellene Jean Marie Drot and his favourite contemporaries, housed in the former mansion of the artist.

Local restaurants

At the tiny harbour on the far end of Mylopotas Beach sits Drakos Taverna, a favourite local haunt that’s been serving fresh seafood and Greek staples since 1963. Drakos plucks octopus right out of the bay and sun-dries them on ropes out front before sending to the grill, which makes for an exotic sunset photo. Salt Restaurant Bar is the kind of place where you could easily while away an entire afternoon and most of the evening, too. The aesthetic is so laid-back it’s near horizontal and you’d come here just to sip cocktails on the sunloungers, but the contemporary Greek kitchen is arguably the best on the beach. Mr Smith is still dreaming of the Gemista Risotto, with fresh oregano, pine nuts and local Ios cheese. Cantina Del Mar is a proper beach bar with an all-day bistro – there is scarcely a more enjoyable meal than a burger and a cold beer while sat in still-wet swimmers.

Local cafés

Rollin’ Nomad may be a food truck, but its usual parking spot at the midpoint of Mylopotas Beach during the summer is better than most restaurants could wangle. Snacks focus on healthy burgers and eggs, with the best coffee beachside. For true speciality coffee, make the trip to Chora’s hip Art Café-Bar Foiniki.

Local bars

Mylopotas Beach is a rare chameleon in the Greek Islands. The southernmost half is all about the revelry, with a lively atmosphere all summer long and the wildest beach parties from clubs like Far Out Beach Club. But if ‘eat, sleep, rave, repeat’ isn’t your modus operandi, the mood calms down the further up the beach you go. The Dali-esque motifs and pastels at Free Beach Bar make for a nicely chilled vibe, and Bamboo is typically filled with a cultured crowd.