Paris, France

Hôtel Verneuil

Rates from (ex tax)$179.94

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR161.00), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

Historic hideout

Setting

Saint Germain chic

Tucked away in Saint-Germain des Prés, the small-but-stylish rooms at Hôtel Verneuil are traditionally Paris-sized (ie, compact) but the cultural whirl of the Rive Gauche location is first-class Parisian perfection. The orange and turquoise decor can't fail to turn a head – and we were especially charmed by the odd wooden beam or coquettish flash of original stonework – and there's a fiendishly clever way of ensuring optimum wine temperatures at the lounge's honesty bar…

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Facilities

Photos Hôtel Verneuil facilities

Need to know

Rooms

26.

Check–Out

Noon. Earliest check-in, 3pm. If you’re arriving early or leaving late, staff will be happy to store your luggage.

Rates

Double rooms from $179.94 (€146), excluding tax at 10 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional local city tax of €2.47 per person per night on check-out.

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (EUR146.36), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

More details

Rates include free local and international calls, and WiFi; and exclude buffet breakfast (€18) with fresh Dominique Saibron pastries, juices and fruit.

Also

The tiny but traditional lift is not for the claustrophobic… but taking the elegant original staircase gives you a chance to admire the stained-glass windows.

At the hotel

Lobby lounge, concierge, free WiFi throughout. In rooms: flatscreen TV, minibar, L'Occitane bath products. All rooms have a Dringme Smartphone guests can use (for recommendations, ticket and cab bookings, local calls and international calls to the US, Canada and Europe), and Deluxe Rooms have a slightly larger TV, Nespresso coffee machine and tea-making kit.

Our favourite rooms

For the most space, book into a Deluxe Room. Their historic features (look out for the whitewashed beams crisscrossing the ceiling) combine pleasingly with the bright spots of colour (tangerine and turquoise) in the top-quality furniture. Charmingly, the books on the shelf and flowers in vases are coloured to match…

Packing tips

You won’t need to pack a book: they’re everywhere here. Their spines to the wall, they act as intriguing decorative flourishes… play literary lucky dip and read whatever anonymous title you end up pulling off the shelf.

Also

This is an historic building, and isn’t wheelchair accessible.

Children

Accepted, but this hotel is aimed at a grown-up crowd.

Food and Drink

Photos Hôtel Verneuil food and drink

Top Table

In lieu of a full-fledged restaurant, the table by the window in the lounge is a lovely spot for tea sipping and sly people watching. If you want something stronger, the honesty bar is steps away.

Dress Code

There's no need to dress up for breakfast… but feel free to break out your finery if you want to feel at home with the imperious bust of Marie Antoinette in the lobby.

Hotel restaurant

There's no restaurant on-site, but the breakfast buffet – the baguettes and croissants are from the nearby Dominique Saibron bakery – is served downstairs in the historic building's atmospheric vaulted cellar, with its stone ceiling and backlit book-filled alcoves.

Hotel bar

The very cool library bar, just off the lobby, is a cosy, art-book-packed place to lounge, with a fully stocked drinks cart. We're enamoured of the wine capsules – test-tubes each filld with one glass – which you pop into the hotel's clever gizmo that chills or warms your drink to the optimum temperature. 

Last orders

Breakfast runs from 7am to 10.30am.

Room service

Snacks, sandwiches, soups and the like are provided 6pm–midnight by an external local service.

Location

Photos Hôtel Verneuil location
Address
Hôtel Verneuil
8 rue de Verneuil
Paris
75007
France

Planes

Touchdown at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, 37 kilometres from the hotel. Flights land daily from destinations around the world, including London Heathrow, Glasgow International and Belfast City.

Trains

Arrive by Eurostar at Paris’ Gare du Nord, 5 kilometres away: there are frequent daily services from London’s St Pancras, as well as trains from Brussels, Amsterdam and throughout France.

Automobiles

Paris isn’t a fun place to drive; if you do decide to arrive by car, there’s parking five minutes’ walk from the hotel.

Worth getting out of bed for

The Saint Germain district’s about as central as it gets in Paris. Hôtel Verneuil is just a short stroll from the Seine’s Rive Gauche, surrounded by galleries and antique shops, and opposite the graffiti-tribute-adorned former home of Serge Gainsbourg.

One of the must-see attractions, the Musée d’Orsay, is right on your doorstep. Originally a railway station, the museum now presents art from 1848 to 1914, as well as concerts, films and lectures (62, rue de Lille; +33 (0)1 40 49 48 14). For something rather different, check out the Musée Des Égouts De Paris, a walking tour inside the city's sewers (Face au 93 Quai d'Orsay; +33 (0)1 53 68 27 81).

If you like markets, you're in the right place. The Rue Cler is one of the city's most famous market streets: you'll find specialty food stores, patisseries, butchers, delicatessens, fishmongers, greengrocers, chocolate shops, cafés and more; the market is at its best Tuesday–Saturday 8.30am to 1pm or 3pm to 7.30pm. Another option is the Marché Saxe-Breteuil, a fresh-food market open Thursdays, from 7am until 2.30pm (Avenue de Saxe; +33 (0) 1 45 11 71 11).

Local restaurants

Renowned as one of the top restaurants in the area (and the world), L'Arpège has an extensive menu but the stand-out dish is the Cévennes onion gratin complete with black truffle (84 Rue de Varenne; +33 (0)1 47 05 09 06). Another nearby gastronomic hot-spot is Le Chateaubriand (129 Avenue Parmentier; +33 (0)1 43 57 45 95). Head to the roof terrace at Les Ombres to take snapshots of the Eiffel Tower that will put all your friends' to shame… as well as try delicious new takes on French favourites (27 Quai Branly; +33 (0) 1 47 53 68 00). 

Local cafés

This is the 'hood where literati-luring eateries Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore reside. Formerly the haunts of philosophers, artists and other chin-stroking intellegentsia, they're popular with tourists, but still serve elegant light bites and have buzzy terraces.

Local bars

For a taste of what the French do best, hit La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels on rue Lobineau, where clued-in barkeeps pour out vins in abundance.

Reviews

Photos Hôtel Verneuil reviews
Rosa Rankin-Gee

Anonymous review

I am going to surprise Mrs Smith.
Mrs Smith really hates surprises.

These are the sentences wrestling in my mind. Every time I do this, I think it will be fun. Every time it’s about to happen, my face starts to sweat.

Sunday is date day, but this Sunday’s going to be different. I force Mrs Smith out of our 20th arrondissement apartment two minutes ahead of me so I can sneak out a few overnight essentials. Because little does Mrs Smith know – and I wish I could make this sound less sinister – she won’t be coming home tonight.

We métro it to the Champs-Elysées, and walk, arms tangled, past the stately greenhouse of Le Grand Palais and Chinese couples taking elaborate pre-wedding photos on the Pont Alexandre. Then we stop for a quick Martini blanc. I hope that if she’s a little drunk, she will be easier to manipulate.

‘Where next?’ asks Mrs Smith.
‘To the Musée des Beaux-Arts!’ I say breathlessly. (My nerves are soaring. That’s not where we’re going at all, at all. If she hates the surprise, will she hate me?)

It’s at the tip of Rue de Verneuil, a quaint Seine side street, all antiquarian piano shops and appointment-only galleries, that I angle Mrs Smith through the heavy glass door of Hôtel Verneuil. ‘But what are you doing? Where are you taking me?’ Mrs Smith thinks I have gone temporarily mad. ‘Trust me,’ I say. A line that usually has the reverse effect.

We take a seat in the dark, velvety reception and I check in for two nights. All the while, Mrs Smith has nervous giggles. ‘Why?’ she keeps on saying ‘Why?’ She is almost vibrating on her chair. I put my hand on her knee to steady her.

We’re handed a heavy gold key and take the snakeskin-lined lift to the third floor. The lighting is low and rich; we feel like we’re entering a broodier, soft-focus world where anything might happen. And it does. One of the first things Mrs Smith does when she enters the room is jump on the bed. Jump. On. The. Bed. Mrs Smith – a mature and cerebral writer-editor – is jumping on the bed, with her arms in the air, grinning and squealing ‘wheeeeeee’. Wow.

In Paris, the sweetest things come in small packages. Macarons, madeleines, caramelly canelés. The same can be said for Hôtel Verneuil. Don’t expect a Versailles-sized room, but hey, look how badly that ended for Louis XIV. Our room has whitewashed exposed beams and neutral walls, with cash injections of orange and turquoise. To the left of our bed is a Jenga-like stack of old French books with beautiful dip-dyed page ends.

The toiletries are L’Occitane, the sheets are silky, and out of our tall window we have a view of Serge Gainsbourg’s former home. No. 5 (that classic Parisian number) is adorned with a black-and-white airbrush mural of Serge’s jolie laide face as a 20-year-old. I ask Mrs Smith if she is happy. Normally, I’m banned from doing this. She thinks it’s a rude question laden with pressure. But this time, she just slides her arms around me and says ‘yes’.

Hôtel Verneuil sits at the centre of everything Paris is famous for. It’s sandwiched between the Seine and Saint Germain, at the heart of a formidable art-triangle: the Musée d’Orsay, the Louvre and the independent galleries off Rue Bonaparte. You can walk anywhere that’s anywhere, in Eiffel Tower-high heels, and not feel the pinch. That first night, we vogue back from famed art deco bar La Palette in 4.2 minutes. We fold ourselves into thick starched dressing gowns, then into bed, and take photos of our feet for a friend starting – I kid you not – a hotel slipper Tumblr. The street below is dreamily peaceful, and the next morning, riding high on a wave of 10 hours’ sleep, we start the day with Dominique Saibron pastries in the 17th-century vaulted breakfast cellar.

Like I said, Mrs Smith and I live in Paris. Mrs Smith is a true old-timer: six years and counting. But that’s why going for a mini-break on the other side of the river is, well, important. We remember why we live here. It’s like being back on Erasmus, but better. We window-shop – in French it’s lèche-vitrine, to window lick – on the Boulevard, get crêpes to go and eat them leaning against Haussmanian limestone; we sneak copies of the IHT out of the hotel and into the Jardin de Luxembourg, and catch Annie Hall at Le Champo.

It’s a great place to burn through any bucket list. You can lock your love down on the Pont des Arts (though padlocks are old hat, so take a rugged bike chain or, as Mrs Smith suggested, handcuffs), or visit the Maison des Millésimes wine lair, manned on most days by a charming British boy called Daley. He can send you off with anything from a €10 Bordeaux to a €1,000-plus Pétrus; and if you fancy bubbles in bed, he can put Billecart-Salmon on ice. There’s the triptych of great restaurants on the rue de Seine (Fish la Boissonerie, Cosi and Semilla); alternatively, you can have a liquid dinner at Paris’s first NY-style cocktail bar Prescription. After that, there’s always Montana’s, a nightbar with a notoriously strict door policy, where we ended up power-dancing until 4am. On, rather shamefully, a Monday.

After all, there was no need to worry about getting home. We tumble back as the birds start to sing, tip imaginary hats to Serge as we go past, and retreat into our sumptuous, Paris-in-a-heartbeat Hôtel Verneuil hideaway.

The Guestbook

Whenever you book a stay at a Smith Hotel with us, we’ll invite you to review it when you get back. Read what other Smith members had to say in Hôtel Verneuil’s Guestbook below.

We loved

Great location on a quiet street in the middle of St Germain – a great place to explore all of Paris on foot or bike. Fantastic staff and a comfortable hotel. Superb breakfast.

Don’t expect

Small problem with noise from an adjoining room.

Rating

Stayed on 24 Dec 2017

We loved

The location, cosy beds, amazing shower and warm reception.

Don’t expect

Spacious rooms, additional services such as a bar etc.

Rating

Stayed on 16 Dec 2017

We loved

My third stay at this lovely hotel, for a girls' weekend with my sister. Lovely as always, location ideal, staff was friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. Rooms are superbly comfortable. St Regis cafe/bar on Ile St Louis (behind Notre Dame) has the best French onion soup I've ever had. Les Antiquaires (a 3 minute walk from the hotel) has the best steak and frites. Wander around St. Germain – every street has a hidden nook and cranny with surprising gems.

Don’t expect

Space: the rooms are tiny, but since youre out exploring Paris, it doesn't matter. Plus the decor is to die for so you don't even notice.

Rating

Stayed on 11 Nov 2017

We loved

The hospitality.

Don’t expect

Large rooms.

Rating

Stayed on 10 Jul 2017

We loved

The room and service were absolutely excellent. The free complimentary mobile phone was a lovely touch and the staff were outstanding and very polite.

Rating

Stayed on 15 May 2017

We loved

All the personell from the hotel. Alexis the manager, Joseph the concierge, Tushara our driver and Paul from the restaurant were all very kind.

Rating

Stayed on 5 Apr 2017

We loved

The room! Lovely decor, comfortable and very chic. The location is also fantastic, five-minute walk to the Louvre, Musée d'Orsay and many others. Second time staying here, won't be the last! Two streets down is a lovely restaurant called Les Antiquaires (turn right out of the hotel, walk two blocks and turn right again, it's next to a fired earth shop - food is fantastic, great atmosphere, lovely for lunch or dinner).

Don’t expect

A lot of space, rooms are small, but perfect for a weekend getaway.

Rating

Stayed on 19 Nov 2016

We loved

The location is excellent, on the Left Bank close to Musee d'Orsay and the Louvre. It is located in the midst of a great shopping area featuring antique and art shops. The hotel is very chic in styling and the staff are very friendly and accommodating. The bathroom in our room was particularly inviting and stylish. The street is very quiet with little traffic.

Don’t expect

While the room was very stylish, the classic size was very small. If staying for more than 2 days, a larger room would be more comfortable.

Rating

Stayed on 5 Sep 2016

We loved

The staf was very helpful and friendly. The room very quiet for a good night sleep. Recommend Eric Kayser cafe for fresh pain au chocolate

Don’t expect

Spacious rooms

Rating

Stayed on 31 Aug 2016

We loved

The location - In the heart of Saint-Germain, yet very quiet and peaceful at night. Room is small but very cosy, modern and comfortable. Extremely good value for money. Quite a deal actually. Stay in the small streets of Saint-Germain, between the Seine river bank and the boulevard to find the best food and avoid tourist traps.

Don’t expect

Space. Things to bring is a cabin size luggage, not a check-in baggage. Coffee machine in the room would have been an extra star.

Rating

Stayed on 28 Aug 2016

We loved

The location of the hotel was perfect in the heart of St Germain. The hotel is tiny, just 26 rooms, but it is very quaint and atmospheric. Walking up the winding staircase to our room we really felt like we were stepping back in time. The buffet breakfast was simple but excellent. The buffet seemed to stay open until the last guest had come down to eat - we never felt rushed even though we always came down late! A very pleasant stay – we would return. Bistro Bonaparte, a 5 minute walk away on Rue Bonaparte, was a great place for after dinner drinks. Lovely cocktails, very friendly waiter service and fantastic for just sitting and watching Parisian life go by.

Don’t expect

Big rooms - the rooms are tiny but well designed.

Rating

Stayed on 26 Aug 2016

We loved

Location, it's clean, comfortable, service was fine.

Don’t expect

Large room

Rating

Stayed on 2 Aug 2016

We loved

The location was excellent and quiet.

Don’t expect

Large rooms

Rating

Stayed on 13 May 2016

We loved

Ideal quiet Left Bank, St Germain location. Charming, genuine, helpful staff. Stylish room with lovely amenities and deliciously comfy bed. FAB-U-LOUS local Epicerie just around the corner!

Don’t expect

Oodles of space.

Rating

Stayed on 19 Apr 2016

We loved

Personal attention from friendly English-speaking staff. Wonderful job at recommending restaurants and making reservations. Right down the street are two great restaurants: Bonne Excuse and Cinq Mars.

Don’t expect

Large rooms. This is a super quaint old building so the rooms are like something from a storybook.

Rating

Stayed on 17 Mar 2016

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