Los Angeles, United States

Hotel Per La

Price per night from$129.50

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (including tax) available in the next 60 days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency (USD129.50), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.

Style

High-interest hideaway

Setting

DTLA’s Historic Core

Hotel Per La’s Italy and DTLA culture-smash could favor the country with centuries to work with. It’s set in the Neoclassical Giannini building, once home to the Bank of Italy; cuisine borrows from the Med; Murano-glass chandeliers and custom-leather headboards abound; and a replica statue from Bomarzo’s Park of Monsters snarls by the rooftop pool. But, Angelenos have much to beam with pride about here – not least the ever-present sunshine: views over the Historic Core, farm yields and cult brands from across the state filling menus and minibars, and over 4,000 locally commissioned artworks showing a whole new side of the city. And whether you call it ‘la dolce vita’ or simply SoCal chill, minds meet here in offering the good life.

Smith Extra

Get this when you book through us:

Free late check-out till 2pm

Facilities

Photos Hotel Per La facilities

Need to know

Rooms

241, including 53 suites.

Check–Out

12 noon, but flexible, subject to availability; charges might apply. Earliest check-in, 3pm.

Prices

Double rooms from £125.58 ($150), including tax at 16.195 per cent. Please note the hotel charges an additional resort fee of $40.67 per room per night on check-out.

More details

Rates don’t include breakfast which is $30 each.

Also

The name ‘Per La’ nods to Amadeo Giannini’s more open-minded view of banking – ‘for the people’ – because he made services more available for immigrants and those outside the upper class. But now, the meaning has shifted slightly to ‘for the people of LA’; the stay really does show the richness of the city’s culture, especially in the revitalized Downtown. More than 4,000 artworks were commissioned, all showing the lesser-known aspects and corners of the city. Local creatives Jessalyn Brooks and Dean Barger have created eye-catching hangings and murals. And the building itself is a testament to LA’s wider history – be sure to visit the bathrooms at Per l’Ora – they’re hidden behind the hefty door of the original vault, with lockboxes lining the walls.

At the hotel

Roof terrace, lobby lounges, games room, free WiFi. In rooms: Flatscreen TV, Tivoli Bluetooth radio, minibar, bathrobes. One-Bedroom Suites have a Nespresso coffee machine too (available on request for different room types).

Our favourite rooms

All rooms have similar decor, but it’s finely crafted and thoroughly styled. Beds have a custom-leather headboard and Bellino linens – no apple-pie duvet corners here, so the rooms feel more like apartments – artworks offer insider views of LA, and the marble workspace doubles up as a dining table so it doesn’t feel too business-like. Some rooms have made-for-two pedestal bath tubs too. The Amadeo Suite certainly looks like a million dollars (but doesn’t cost that, we promise), with its velvet sofas, Murano-glass chandeliers, Persian rugs, living-room library and kitchenette; but we also like the skyline-view suites for their iconic panoramas, and the Patio Salon with its bijou alfresco space.

Poolside

If it weren’t for the skyscrapers rising around you like stern loading-bars, lounging around by the hotel’s rooftop pool might feel like you’ve teleported to the Med. Admittedly, the replica of the eerie ‘Orcus’ statue from Italy’s ‘park of monsters’ is a touch disarming, but is solidly in step with the Euro theme and gets even more oracular after dark when a fire is lit in its wide-open mouth. The sun shines on the pool from the direction of the historic district, where buildings don’t rise above 12 floors, so you’re near-guaranteed rays all day. You can swim from 7am to 10pm, colourful cocktails come courtesy of Bar Clara, and curtained cabanas offer privacy for snoozing and snuggling.

Packing tips

Bring cult sneakers for wandering the neighbourhoods, wads of dollars for buying up the Fashion District, and a wardrobe of Transatlantic labels. And no need to bring entertainment, DTLA should provide enough distractions and the hotel has a lounge with board games.

Also

The hotel has four elevators, and accessible Studio Suites, fitted with grab bars in the bathroom, wider doorways and special features for hearing-impaired guests.

Pet‐friendly

One pupper under 50 pounds can stay in your room (sorry chonks) for $75 a stay. Café Ora sells locally made dog treats too. See more pet-friendly hotels in Los Angeles.

Children

There are connecting rooms and suites that sleep up to four, but this is more of a ‘while the kids are away, parents can play’ kind of place.

Sustainability efforts

The Calgreen-certified hotel is an Earth-hugger for sure, with entirely renewable energy, water-efficient showers, motion-controlled electricity, and carbon offsets purchased each year to compensate for at least 10 per cent of emissions. Guests can choose to opt out of daily housekeeping if they want to make their stay a little greener, and staff are happy to provide information about the history of the building and area and local ecosystems. A percentage of the hotel’s profits is channelled back into community and sustainability projects, and props must be given for the excellent work the hotel has done in restoring and revamping the most decorous bits of the Giannini Building.

Food and Drink

Photos Hotel Per La food and drink

Top Table

From the roof terrace you can map out LA’s historic district, with its grand no-higher-than-12-storey sky-ticklers. For groups, there’s a large sociable tucked away at the back of Per l’Ora.

Dress Code

Al-LA moda.

Hotel restaurant

All aspects of the hotel run to a braided thread of classic Italian elegance and DTLA’s sun-kissed laidback cool, and this is perhaps most evident when it comes to dining in Per La’s holy trinity of eateries. In the former main banking hall – a double-height space with an original Italianate blue-and-gold coffered ceiling – is Per l’Ora (roughly translated to ‘for the now’). Awash with white linen and sparkling with backlit display cabinets, it’s a space for both casual catch-ups and splash-out dinners (for extra-special occasions, hire out the upper mezzanine for drinks and private dining rooms). All ingredients are sourced in-state, and the menu thrums with DTLA influence – try burrata with fig balsamic and an olive crumb, veal Milanese with fermented-chilli vinaigrette and yuzu dust, and kurobuta porchetta in plum compote. Bar Clara, on the roof terrace, has small plates that soon become a very large meal as temptation wins – get that table creaking with caviar-topped pickled devilled eggs; lamb sliders with feta in garlic buns; prawns with harissa, charred lemon and dill yoghurt; and trifle with blueberry-tarragon jam and mascarpone-lime cream. And Café Ora, on the ground level, is lit by a Gio Ponti Murano glass chandelier, has a mural by LA artist Dean Barger on the wall, and serves local Lamill coffee, snacks and CBD products alongside pastries and gelato.

Hotel bar

Bar Clara – named for Amadeo Giannini’s glass-ceiling smashing daughter (she was the first woman to serve on the boards of the Bank of America and Sears, Roebuck & Company) – is set on the rooftop in a space joyfully painted by LA-based artist Jessalyn Brooks, whose work celebrates the female body in all its contours. You can get local craft brews or hard ciders and seltzers, but the cocktail list is a playful screed. We like the Aurora, a mix of gin, kumquat, vanilla and lime; and the Cavallo with dark rum, cinnamon, limoncello and lime; but you can also drink through the rainbow with a list of spirits based on colour, from a Yellow blend of amaro, orangecello and prosecco, to a Purple of gin, vermouth and blueberry. There’s a bar leading off from Per l’Ora too, a decadent space of velvets, jewellery-esque light fixtures and heavy-veined marble counters, and Café Ora serves wines and cocktails, too.

Last orders

Per l’Ora opens for dinner Wednesday to Sunday, from 5pm to 10pm. Café Ora runs from 6.30am to 3pm daily.

Room service

In-room dining is available from 7am to 10pm daily, with a limited after-hours menu.

Location

Photos Hotel Per La location
Address
Hotel Per La
649 South Olive Street
Los Angeles
90014
United States

Hotel Per La is in the Giannini Building – the exceedingly grand former headquarters of the Bank of Italy – in DTLA, just north of the Fashion District.

Planes

LAX is the closest international hub, about a 30-minute drive away; and domestic flights from across the country land at Burbank, also a 30-minute ride away.

Trains

Union Station, another glamourpuss building from the city’s Golden Age, is where cross-country Amtrak trains stop in the city. And the closest Metro stop is Pershing Square, about a 10-minute walk away, which serves the B and D lines for trips to West LA, Hollywood and beyond.

Automobiles

If you’re going to do LA without a car then downtown is probably your best bet – it’s one of the city’s most walkable neighbourhoods. However, the city is a sprawl, so if you’re eager to ascend into the hills or hit the beach then a set of wheels will be essential. The hotel also has valet parking for $51 (plus tax) a night.

Worth getting out of bed for

Set far inland from the coast, and out of Hollywood’s glare, Downtown is kind of its own thing – dare we say, it feels a lot more authentic, and from a one-time no-go area, its turnaround to buzzy enclave has been dramatic. There’s plenty to keep you occupied, and usually something on every night of the week, whether it’s sports games, gigs and comedy at the LA Live and Crypto.com arenas; classical sessions with the LA Phil at the Walt Disney Concert Hall (seek out the hidden garden inside Frank Gehry’s origami-esque building while you’re there); musicals, theater and dance at the Music Center; or avant-garde live shows at the Ace Theater. And by day, you can seek cultural succour at one of the ‘hood’s proliferating art galleries. The Broad offers splashiness with substance, with pieces by the likes of Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Cindy Sherman and Basquiat and exhibitions that zoom in on America’s social issues. All well and good, but if you’re as drawn to shiny things as we are, you’ll love it most for its two Yayoi Kusama Infinity Mirror Rooms – where LED lights form an unending cosmos. Moca Grand Avenue is the only artist-founded gallery in the city; it’s a visual feast inside and out, with artists commissioned to cover the building, and within, alongside established names, you’ll find new voices. LA’s outpost of super-cool gallery Hauser & Wirth is close by too; the likes of Eva Hesse and Jenny Holzer are hung, and there’s an excellent art-book shop too. LA’s Arts District was established by creatives in the 1970s, and is a warren of indie and modern galleries – you could potter about all day, but if you’re strapped for time, head to Art Share LA, a vast warehouse filled with live-work lofts. In love with the hotel’s neoclassical building? Be sure to swing by the Bradbury Building (part of which featured in Blade Runner), gaze up at the ornate ceiling of the Central Library and skip along Broadway, a gauntlet of vintage theaters. 

Local restaurants

downtown communities means you can enjoy long-haul eating over just a few blocks. The restaurant has Italian down pat in Per l’Ora, so look beyond the boot. Nibble away at tasty things on sticks at Hatch Yakitori (chicken breast and plum, salmon with avocado and mint, chilli bok choy with shrimp and togarashi), washed down with popsicle-garnished highballs; fill up on Salvadoran pupusas (freshly griddled parcels of meat, cheese and veggies with hot sauce for dipping) at Sarita’s Pupuseria; and rack up the Portuguese plates (crab with jamon butter and green tomatoes, chorizo-stuffed pork with Santa Rosa plums and Ginjinha liqueur) at Caldo Verde. But when you want to up the romance, pull out the stops and your wallet for Kato’s Taiwanese tasting menu, where dishes range from the humble (wonton soup, spicy mussels) to the fully flourished (hibiscus macarons with chicken liver and brown-butter tapioca with cheese foam). And Damian is a high-end Mexican from chef Enrique Olvera, whose eateries keep climbing ‘best of’ lists. There’s duck al pastor and carne asada, but also some influence from the east in dishes such as enmoladas with kimchi fried rice and fish-tartare tostadas with furikake.

Local cafés

Grand Central Market is a Downtown institution; you could eat at its street-food stalls for months and still find something new to try. So, arrive hungry for sandos, artisanal PB&Js, vegan ramen bowls, Korean dosirak lunchboxes, Thai sticky rice bowls, Texan barbecue, currywurst, cookies and custom ice-cream sandwiches. And that’s just for starters… Speaking of ice-cream, Singaporean parlour Little Damage is the spot to hit on a sizzling day; their signature activated-charcoal-blackened cones are filled with the likes of horchata, blue-tinged cookies and cream, coffee-caramel and creamy avocado soft serve.

Local bars

Hotel Per La has a bright cheery demeanour throughout; but our preferred DTLA bars have a more sultry than sunny disposition. Take low-lit Death & Co, a New York transplant with dramatically named drinks. Try the Cloak & Dagger with Death & Co x Stellum bourbon, habanero spirit, mezcal and angostura; or the Truthsayer with rum, Irish whiskey, maraschino, passionfruit and Tiki-style bitters. Carry on the hotel’s old-school glamour at the Wolves, where punters drink amid antique lamps, panelling and artworks, under a spectacular art nouveau stained-glass ceiling, taken from an old train station. Order up the Millions of Peaches where armagnac gets punched up with cream cheese, amaro and an absinthe rinse; or the Crown Jool, an exotic combo of rye, medjool-date-infused bourbon and cumin honey.

Reviews

Photos Hotel Per La reviews

Anonymous review

Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this Italianate hotel in downtown LA and unpacked their Fashion District finds and joy-bringing pieces from artsy shop Poketo, a full account of their new-side-of-SoCal break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Hotel Per La…

You only need stop for tacos, pupusas, currywurst and gourmet PB&Js in Grand Central Market to experience the bubbling vat of cultures DTLA comprises. And, in the same spirit, Hotel Per La also fuses two distinct identities – that handed down by a Sardinian immigrant family and California’s chilled-out creative side. It’s set in the Giannini building, the former Bank of Italy and a Neoclassical wonder from LA’s golden years; and there are times when you might feel you’ve been beamed over to the Boot: perhaps when you’re tucking into porchetta, pastas and cicchetti-esque small plates under the downstairs Per l’Ora restaurant’s lavish coffered ceiling, or by the – slightly unnerving – replica Orcus statue from Bomarzo’s Park of Monsters on the roof deck. Or maybe when you enter the greenery-graced entrance hall with its trickling fountain, or while admiring the Murano glass and custom leatherwork in your suite. But LA’s not been outshone by this Italianate decadence: local creatives have added spice throughout, inspiration from local eateries has brought unique flavourings to the table (ingredients hail from the state’s fertile farmlands and cult edibles abound), and the building has some fascinating bones from the Historic Core’s heyday (notably the imposing vault in the basement). It offers European elegance and Cali cool – mamma mia (mom), we’re in love.

Price per night from $129.50

Book now