Hacienda San Angel

When plotting our next getaway, Mr Smith and I agreed that we wanted three things: warm weather, cool drinks and somewhere that felt unique. As we looked into Puerto Vallarta, on Mexico’s Pacific coast, it seemed to tick at least the first two boxes; then we discovered the boutique-sized and history-filled – and certainly unique – hotel Hacienda San Angel, and we were sold on our next adventure. 

However, sometimes you don’t need adventure exactly; sometimes you just want to spend time with someone you love, relaxing and lounging about in a peaceful environment, forgetting about all other distractions. And there was something about this spot in Jalisco, when the breeze blew in from the ocean, rustling the lush pink and purple flowers all around, that made everything seem a bit more romantic. Maybe that’s why Richard Burton was so enchanted with the place that he bought not one, but two properties in Puerto Vallarta, to gift to both his wife Suzy Miller and his mistress, Elizabeth Taylor. Love is in the air, as they say (or at least in the real estate), and Hacienda San Angel (the one his wife owned) is ideal when you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle, relax and enjoy the sea air with a margarita by one of three pools. This region of Mexico can be a destination for late-night parties, but if you’re looking for something on the quieter side, this is the right place. Mr Smith and I left our late-night ways behind us a long time ago, so if – like us – enjoying fresh guacamole by the pool is more your speed than ripping shots with strangers, book your stay at the Hacienda immediately. 

Each room was unique, with its own personality, and styled with Mexican and European antiques from the 17th through 19th centuries. There wasn’t a hint of a touristy, spring-break aesthetic – each statement piece is hand-selected, so you feel like you’re staying in an open-air museum. There was a quietness too, but it doesn’t feel stuffy or forced; it’s all rather soothing. The ancient art and artifacts aren’t the only inhabitants – there were also three very friendly dogs belonging to the property owner who gave us a warm welcome. Surrounded by wooden altarpieces, mirrors in gilt frames and wagging tails, Mr Smith and I sipped our welcome cocktails and settled into this den, which felt as distinctive as we’d desired. Our room, the Crown View Suite, had a private balcony for reading, reflecting and looking out over the expansive courtyard; and a bathroom with tiny votive candles lined up above the stone-tiled tub set a relaxing yet romantic mood. Each piece in the suite felt imbued with its own history, from the painting of the Virgin Mary and Archangel Gabriel facing the queen-size bed, to the antique French crystal wall sconce above our heads. All of which created a sense of intimacy and made the stay seem all the more thoughtful – even more so when we received handmade chocolates at bedtime, sending us off to sweet dreams. 

In the morning, we were treated to a free selection of fresh fruit and just-baked breads, with hand-squeezed orange juice. Breakfast happened in the kitchen nook, at a dramatic, large wooden table that looked like a prop from a period drama. It was the perfect start to a day of exploring in the historic center of town, only a 10-minute stroll away. It should be noted that Hacienda San Angel is at the top of a steep hill, so getting about can be a bit more strenuous than normal, but Ubers are plentiful, and we enjoyed walking off all of the local mezcal and regional agave-based spirit raicilla. If your trip overlaps a Wednesday evening, don’t miss the Art Walk in town, where numerous galleries are open late and host food and drink tastings. If you’re lucky, you might even get a personalized tour, like we did when we ran into an expat who – in search of his own peaceful place – had opened a gallery during the pandemic. Hacienda staff will gladly give you a map of the galleries participating so you don’t miss any of the local culture. Just make sure your shoes are able to handle the uneven stone walkways, and don’t forget to head due west to the Malecón to marvel at one of the most picturesque sunsets on the Pacific coast. 

On our return to the hotel, we lazily climbed the stone steps, lit by candlelight and surrounded by small cherub statues, to the on-site restaurant for dinner. We listened in on the pleasant chatter of other visitors, and enjoyed fresh seafood: seared scallops and caught-that-day tuna to start, angel-hair pasta scattered with shellfish and shrimp risotto to follow, then a perfect coconut creme brûlée to finish, with several glasses of delicious Mexican rosé along the way, all while overlooking the city lights. We were almost too full for another round of chocolates in bed. Almost. 

At check-out, we mused over our lazy vacation. We had found the warmth, drinks and quiet we desired, plus a cultural deep-dive to boot. And what was the most notable piece from the past at the hotel? In my mind, the original Renoir sketch that hangs in the manager’s office, which also acts as an apt metaphor for Hacienda San Angel: detailed, historic, and enchanting, and utterly memorable if you’re willing to seek it out.