Gravina 51

A word in your ear, Seville first-timers: pack your good shoes. Look, I know what you’re thinking. After walking 15,723 steps, the last thing you’ll want come 10pm dinner (not a typo) is to squeeze into something smart but callous-provoking. Seville, however, is a fancy one. Pavements and bar terraces are where life congregates as if at mass, and Sevillianos don’t ration their Sunday best to a single day. Beards are coiffured, the lipstick as bright as the famous oranges, and a fur coat that would cause a Peta protest on a Surrey high street is paraded with the sassy flick of a power blow-dry.

All of which poses a dilemma for a hotel. How do you stand out when visitors will spend most of their time outside it? For that, Gravina 51’s star quality is its location. The restored palace sits down a quiet side street where there’s just enough millimetres to scoot your SUV to the side and beg the valet to make it disappear, without triggering the wrath of a taxi driver behind you. (We came by car because we travelled on to remote parts of Andalucia, but you absolutely do not need one.)

Because we were travelling with a Very Important Passenger — Diego the dog — our first priority wasn’t checking in, but finding a tree trunk to, erm, 'water'. That’s how we discovered that one of the jewels of Seville was barely 10 minutes’ stroll away — the Guadalquivir River. With the banks pedestrianised in a similar vein to Paris’s Seine, it’s a lively, beer-can-clinking route for wandering, sunset-toasting, running or cycling. On the water, multi-person rowing boats slalom between tour boats, while colourful townhouses perch on the other side, giving echoes of Copenhagen or Amsterdam.

Stomp south towards Los Remedios Bridge and you’ll find yourself in Parque de María Luisa, the city’s sprawling yet manicured urban lung. Pathways meander around Mudéjar mosaic benches and you’ll also spot fountains with the curious little frog statues typical of the region. The mooch back to the ultra-central Gravina 51 is then basically a free tour of the city’s hit-list: Europe’s oldest royal palace, the Real Alcázar; Seville Cathedral; flower-strewn balconies along the cobbled alleys of the historic old town, the Casco Antiguo.

Once 'home' — because isn’t that what a good hotel instantly becomes? — Gravina 51 reflects the city’s architectural patchwork. It’s impossible to pigeonhole the decor style, which melds romantic Baroque with a tranquil Andalucian courtyard. A domino-shaped pool is hidden to the left of reception like a family secret. It’s purely ornamental, but wicker rocking chairs sit between Kentia palms and fig trees, and, lit from an atrium above, there are few nicer spots to knock back a morning coffee with a chapter of your book.

The elements of our Preferential Room that I loved the most were those that rooted you unmistakably in Seville. The floor was a mix of marble and traditional paving slabs, now glazed. The window opened out onto an internal patio where magenta bougainvillea was beginning its climb to domination and occasional violin music drifted in from a gifted neighbour.

The bathroom, more French in style, was particularly beautifully done. Perhaps I was easily won over because we arrived after a week’s stay in a natural park where toilet facilities were what I’d politely call 'early civilisation'. But here, taupe-coloured metro tiles, chunky silver hardware, fresh white roses and café curtains added a premium feel that wouldn’t be out of place in a glitzy five-star.

Dining facilities were limited to breakfast, though there were no limits there — fresh juices, hot egg dishes, a plentiful buffet with all the carbs you could desire. I’m not sure if they’d heard about my dog’s insatiable passion for gluten — ideally served stolen — but the restaurant was the only place that was a no-no for pets. Instead, they made us a special table in the adjacent bar area (complete with a vase of fresh flowers — a nice touch), so that slobbery lunges towards the plate of pastries remained a pipe dream. As for my drool, I thought I’d managed to hide it.

Our final commendation goes to the staff’s unwavering friendliness. No matter how many times we came in and out (which was a lot of times), they always said hello, wished us a good day and asked if we needed tips or reservations. In many places, staff would have kept their heads down after an initial 'hola'. That little-but-important nod of attentiveness is, ultimately, what made our stay so memorable. So, a couple of important heads ups: expect great service and don’t forget great shoes. From your new friend who only had dirty trainers.