Drake Devonshire

Navigating to the Drake Devonshire from Toronto, where I live and work, on a Friday afternoon is a rare two-and-a-half-hour drive that you can actually look forward to. It’s almost a straight shot east along the 401. But once you veer off the highway, you get the distinct feeling of arriving in the country – that mythical place that’s only a true respite if you live most of your life in the city.

The myth-making was amplified on this particular February evening by a dense fog that enveloped us as we reached the ‘County’ (as the area is known by those of us who don’t get there very often, but wish they could). We arrived at the Drake Devonshire a half hour later without incident, but very much in need of a drink.

Lucky for us, a drink at the Drake is a given. And just 10 minutes after checking into our room (quaint, thoughtfully decorated, full of Malin & Goetz toiletries and a well-stocked mini bar), we were in the restaurant for dinner. A word of advice: if you plan on dining at the hotel for brunch or dinner on a weekend, make a reservation. Drake’s restaurant is one of only a few popular spots in the region, meaning many non-hotel guests flock here for oysters, duck confit salad and truffled lasagna. The food is top-notch and the wine list, especially if you go local (the County is famous for its small-scale vineyards), is even better.

There are two exceptional aspects when it comes to The Drake Devonshire. The first is the location. If you live in or around Toronto, you’ll know that outside the city we lack the kind of high-quality hospitality that we’ve come to expect inside the city. There are, of course, some exceptions – and the Drake Devonshire is one. But what makes it all the better is its stunning location just steps from Lake Ontario that’ll make you feel as though you’re weekend-ing on the seaside. And then there’s the County itself, with Sandbanks Provincial Park (a hike or summertime lounging location that gives the impression of being on the moon), myriad Victorian farmhouses and excellent wineries, and an ever-expanding hub of micro-breweries and farm-to-table restaurants, all within a half-hour drive of the hotel.

The second is the hotel’s spot-on vibe and decor. The Drake Hotel and restaurants in Toronto are similarly near-perfect in this regard, and so this shouldn’t come as a surprise. But there’s something about the fact that this airy space used to be a foundry originally built in the late 1800s which makes the hotel that much more charming. And the additions – most spectacularly the double-height, super-bright dining room that backs onto the lake – fit just as seamlessly with the cozy County vibe. The Drake team are pros when it comes to filling their spaces with weird and wonderful art (our room featured pastoral paintings interjected with cartoon characters like Gumby and Lisa Simpson), and quirky Canadiana.

The hotel is located in a tiny town called Wellington – which is a very good thing. We put the local cafes, breweries and restaurants to great use, as more than one or two meals at The Drake can get pricey. In those off-hours between outdoor adventures, antiquing and (more) wine, the hotel has outdoor fire pits, a small beach and deck chairs to lounge in during the summertime, and an indoor games rooms, ping-pong table, photo booth and, again, lots of wine to entertain in the colder months. There’s also a preponderance of programming, from morning yoga to special dining events to take advantage of – again, the team are hospitality pros. It’s well worth the journey for a weekend in the County.