Château Voltaire

'I’ve booked us two nights at a château in central Paris,' I say. 'Come again?' says Mr Smith. 'It’s called Château Voltaire. It’s by Zadig & Voltaire. It’s going to be very cool'. 

Though country house or castle Château Voltaire is not, positioned in the well-heeled 1st Arrondissement, neighbouring many of the palace hotels of Paris, it is by all accounts a sumptuous pad. 

Conceived by Thierry Gillier, the Founder of Parisian label Zadig & Voltaire, the hotel is plotted on Rue Saint-Roch at the former HQ of the brand. As a fashion house, Zadig & Voltaire is known for its irreverent and juxtaposed designs, so it seems only fitting that Gillier’s hotel – imagined in collaboration with artistic director Franck Durand and Festen agency – follow suit.

Dropped off on the corner of Rue Gomboust and Rue Saint-Roch, we give our temporary home – a tall(ish) white building sealed with a 16th-century shell motif on the exterior’s entrance – the once-over before stepping inside. The lobby is petite and the reception desk discrete, with check in carried out in the lounge – always a welcome approach for the travel weary (yes, a mere two hours on the Eurostar can render one weary). 

We’re shown to our room – number 35 (there are 32 rooms, including one epic suite, in all) – which is perfectly understated, save for the trompe l’oeil black and gold carpet, which we are first introduced to in the corridor. It fits a velvet pink sofa (chicer than it sounds), oak oval table, and an XL bed (which is supremely, supremely comfy, made increasingly so courtesy of an old-school bolster cushion). 

Slipping into our cream slippers (with black piping around the edges – a nod to Zadig &Voltaire’s rock ‘n roll aesthetic perhaps?) we make a start at unpacking while nibbling on a complimentary plate of luscious cherries – a rather sophisticated welcome snack we concur. Noseying about our room, we trot in the direction of the wardrobes. 

Quelle surprise: there’s a rather ritzy mini bar stowed away behind the built-in unit’s slim doors. It takes up approximately one third of the overall wardrobe space and is stocked with posh crisps, artisan chocolate, tempting sweets, and a selection of soft drinks and spirits, as well as fresh citrus fruits (a nice touch). 

After pouring ourselves a sharpener, and wolfing down a packet of vegetable crisps, the desire to fold and steam has mysteriously fallen away, and I decide the next thing to do is draw myself a bath. Unpacking can wait. 

The bathroom itself is generously sized, fitted with a tub and walk-in shower. Milk-hued, glazed ceramic tiles dominate the monochromatic space, which is finished with a double sink, so there’s ample room for Mr & Mrs Smith to spread out their toiletries. 

If (like us) you’re too lazy/tired/content to go out and explore the many treasures on your doorstep on night one, head to the hotel’s restaurant, l’Emil (named after the owner’s son) for dinner. 

The compact menu is cosmopolitan, with a seasonal steer. Tuck into starters that range from the simple (half a melon by the spoon) to the slightly more elaborate (seabass carpaccio). The linguine al pomodoro with stracciatella, or the chateaubriand, accompanied by mashed potatoes and green beans, are both good options. And for dessert, the chocolate mousse, of course – old-school and so satisfying. 

it’s easier to take in l’Emil’s charming surrounds at breakfast. There’s a lovely stained-glass bar, which is flanked by bulbous lights hanging from golden chains and Provincial nods – traditional delft, copper pots, and silverware – are dotted about the place. Still, the overriding feeling is firmly Parisian (note the banquette seating, black-and-white floor tiles and varnished oak tables). 

Breakfast itself is simple – we opted for avocado toast with berries and pomegranate and pancakes, presented on orange-edged white scalloped plates, washed down with grapefruit juice and a café au lait. Fruits, viennoiseries, eggs – to your liking – and more are also available. 

When venturing out for the day, do consult the in-the-know hotel team, who are always willing to offer of-the-moment suggestions vis-à-vis where to head next. Wherever your adventures take you, do factor in a pit-stop back at the hotel to enjoy the compact sub-terra sauna and heated (plunge) pool. There’s room enough for two (that would be this Mr & Mrs Smith, then) and you’ll have the place for your exclusive use for 60 whole minutes. 

Come 5pm we made a ritual of heading to La Coquille d´Or – which translates as ‘the Golden Shell’ – for a tipple. Open to non-residents, it’s a bolthole to know when seeking a little privacy in the city – we’ve stored it in our (digital) address books for future visits. Classic pours are what you come here for; nab a cabaret-style table and cosy into the jacquard cushioned seating with a negroni or a Manhattan in situ. 

Overhead, you’ll note gilded trios of shells serving as light fixtures, a nod to the bar’s name; it’s all a bit suave and we loved it. For something brighter, less moody and with more of a daytime atmosphere, the lounge area, which is decorated in soft creams and offset with a deep-seated navy couch, a needlepoint chair, hexagon-shaped stools, solitary reading lamp and a petite Picasso for Gillier’s personal collection, no less, is a comfortable place to plot and plan your day’s activities. 

Next time we come back, we’re keen to check in to the top-floor suite – ‘the apartment’. With hard-to-beat views of Paris’ famed rooftops and a terrace designed by landscape designer Louis Benech, we hear it’s something pretty special. After all, it’s always good to have a reason to return to Paris…