Château Léognan

I have rarely been as enchanted with a hotel as I was with Château Léognan. From its vineyard setting to its fairy-tale towers, refined period interiors and elegant French gardens, this castle really is rather magical. 

Looking for a weekend getaway with an 18-month-old is slightly more complex than it used to be. Is it actually child-friendly? Will the travel be easy or will we return back to Battersea more tired than when we left? But the food and wine of France beckoned and we were ready to take the risk. An hour flight from London, a short car ride, and I can confirm it was worth every minute.

Set among the manicured vines of a 173-acre estate, in the very heart of the famous Pessac-Léognan vineyards, Château Léognan basks in a blissfully rural setting, but is in fact just 30 minutes’ drive from the centre of Bordeaux, and from the airport.

There’s an elevated elegance in the design of the rooms and suites; no garish colours, just beautiful textures and a calming palette. Antique furniture and the naturally grand proportions of a castle create a truly aesthetically pleasing experience. What sets it apart from other hotels in the region is the incredible variety of accommodation on offer, from beautiful hotel rooms in the main château, to a unique glamping experience with luxurious tents and even treehouses.

It is impossible to say which of the 17 rooms is the loveliest, but I would argue that ours takes the biscuit. A vast space with French doors off both the bedroom and ensuite bathroom made for a truly luxurious few days (no squeezing round the bed or tripping over suitcases here). But the best part was the secret staircase through a hidden door, to a second bathroom and a charming bunk-bed room up in the turret. It was set up for us with a cot (and all the other baby accoutrements we could have wanted), providing the perfect balance of family-friendly by day, and romantic and relaxing by night.

The overwhelming passion, dedication and enthusiasm of the staff cannot be missed. In an age where service can slip, it’s a delight to be hosted by such an engaged team. (Special mention must go to Giles, who went above and beyond for us at every turn.) The team are happy to book you trips to nearby Bordeaux or Saint-Emilion, point you in the right direction for a local market, and suggest lunch bookings at the nearby hot spots.

You may, however, prefer to stay put. There’s plenty to do here, from wine tasting to exploring the exceptional spa. There are bikes to tour the estate on, woods to hike or jog in, and very friendly ponies to enchant visiting Little Smiths. Portions of the grounds are still a work in progress; a swimming pool, more rooms and a tea room are all to come. You can see that a great deal of effort is going into the area around the castle, and it’s exciting to speculate on what the team will do as they continue to expand and grow. 

The location is ideal for wine lovers, as it's in close proximity to many of the main châteaux in the region, including Carbonnieux and Smith Haut Lafitte. With the help of the electric bicycles, it was easy for us to explore the best of Bordeaux’s wine offerings.

South-west France’s food is taken as seriously as fine wine here. Organic vegetables are home grown, and fish, seafood, meat and cheese all sourced from trusted local producers. We dined on perfectly pink beef, paired with the hotel’s own wine — followed by local cheeses, and another gulp of wine or two. It's hard not to give the food five stars. The breakfast buffet, laid out in the high-ceilinged dining room, with the sunlight streaming in, is a full European spread: fresh bread and croissants, and all manner of charcuterie and cheese. Nothing was too much for the baby either; yoghurts and warm milk provided with a smile and no extra charge — they know how to keep a mother happy.

And perhaps that’s the summary of our stay here. The staff know exactly how to keep their guests happy — and what could be better than that?